More Hornady PTX Stop questions

[peterk1234]

I cranked out about 2000 rounds of 9mm last week. Everything worked just great with the LNL. Today I made the swap to 38 special. I inserted the 357 PTX and proceeded to try to setup the powder drop and flaring, and spent about an hour and half getting to what was finally a barely acceptable setup.

The PTX is causing a total brain fart for me. I first set up the powder throw without the bracket, adjusting the whole thing by threading it in and out until the powder adjustment bolt was not bumping against the casting. That was easy. Then the fun began. I put the bracket on then slowly adjusted the lower bolt, trying to get enough flair. However, in order o get sufficient flare, I started loose the full motion of the powder throw. I was still getting accurate throws once set up, but I did not like the fact that I was affecting the full motion of the system. I ended up threading in the entire powder throw further into the press to help with more flare and to get a fuller swing of the powder adjustment bolt. I have to be doing something wrong.

I was also getting a bit of lead shaving during the seating process, which leads me to believe, I need a little more flare. However, I can't seem to get there without affecting the throw even more.

I kind of understand what is going on but I think I do not have a full understanding of how this powder throw is functioning in conjunction with the PTX stop. I can usually visualize these things, but I am stumped.

I used to have shaving issues on the Lee turret as well. For some reason, I need quite a bit of flare for it to not happen.


Thanks
Pete

 

[edwardware]

. . . I put the bracket on then slowly adjusted the lower bolt, trying to get enough flair. However, in order to get sufficient flare, I started loose the full motion of the powder throw.

Yep, you have to adjust both, and iterate until both powder and flare are good.

The depth of the die body controls the relationship between flare and throw. From where you are, screw the die body in about 1/6th of a turn, and reverse the QD bushing one step (1/6th revolution) so that the powder measure clocks to the same position, but deeper. Try again, and repeat. If the flare becomes excessive before the throw is complete, back out the flare turnbuckle a bit. Continue iterating 'till both are good.

There's a good reason so many people buy a spare bushing and PTX die for each caliber. . . this process takes me a full 20 min of setup each time.

 

[peterk1234]

Thanks edwardware. That actually makes sense. I am definitely going to have to think about how to make the changes in calibers easier to deal with each time. What are you referring to when you stated spare bushing? Pete

Edit: Ah, you must be talking about the lower section of the powder drop. Damn, another thing to buy. So, I probably should have another lower section as well as a second bracket with the two bolts that adjusts the flare...

 

[Blue68f100]

You are now experiencing the reason I push a separate powder die for each caliber setup. The original way to set the ptx up was to adj the die body just like any other die. It was a couple of years later that they came out with the stop. The main purpose of the stop was to remove the load off of the vertical bar that connect the 2 halves, dispenser and base to keep from failing them. I had failed 2 before Hornady came out with the stop. I use a custom stop that is smaller, so it does not interfere with the other dies. Then every one started use the ptx stop to adj the flare. The best way is to set the stop so it limits full stroke and not load up the linkage and use a separate powder die. This way you do all of you adjusting on the die and you NEVER TOUCH THE STOP AGAIN. This gives you quick caliber conversion by just change the powder die. I do this will all of my handgun ammo. Takes me only a few seconds to change bases. I have marks on my powder die indicating the locking nut positions between lead jacketed.

You answered your question. You should do all of the adj on the die body and only use the stop to fine tune if needed. This is the way most do it if only using 1 powder die. The powder die complete assemblies are not very expensive, < $20 if I recall.