Mosin M38

[Remmy91]

I just got a Mosin Nagant M38 in very good condition. Now i am fairly experienced with firearms, but i have never owned a Milsurp. I have already taken most of it apart, and given it a good cleaning, but I wanted to know, is there is anything else I should do / get for this rifle before I shoot it for the first time?

Oh yeah, I am gonna be shooting surplus corrosive czech ammo out of it.

Thanks in advance

-Alex

 

[MSGT9410]

It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to check the headspace on it -- I generally use that as a rule of thumb when it comes to milsurps, personally.

Have fun with your new mule

 

[George S.]

Checking the headspace is always a good idea on milsurps. Check the stock carefully for any signs of cracks especially around the rear mounting screw.

Check the firing pin protrusion to insure that it will not puncture the primer or cause a AD when the bolt is closed on a round. If you got the kit with the tifle, there is a combination tool that has notches that are used to check the pin. http://www.surplusrifle.com/finnishmosin/boltdisassembly/index.asp

This describes the basic takedown/cleaning http://www.surplusrifle.com/russianmosin189130/rifledisassembly/index.asp There is also some very good information here: http://7.62x54r.net/

I would recommend a good shoulder pad, either one that you can wear or a slip-on recoil pad for the stock. The M38 and M44 have a pretty stout kick to them with most milsurp ammo.

Also, wear sunglasses when shooting it at dusk! The fireball from the short-barreled Mosins is something to see!

 

[270Win]

You probably have already read this, but after shooting the corrosive ammo you want to spray the bore, boltface and action (anywhere the corrosives may have gone) with an ammonia-based cleaner to neutralize them. I use Windex, personally, but there are a lot of options.

 

[Remmy91]

Is there any way to check the headspace without having to buy a set of gauges?

I plan on getting a slip-on limbsaver pad for it.

 

[cracked butt]

If the serial number on the bolt matches the receiver (actually barrel) I wouldn't worry about headspace- the Russians understood how to set headspace correctly.
The only rifles I really worry about headspace on are enfields, or rifles with mismatched bolts.

 

[Cosmoline]

Is the bolt matching? I've had far fewer headspace problems with Mosins than with Mausers. If you've got a matching bolt and it looks to be in good shape I wouldn't worry too much. But I would suggest firing some brass Winchester rounds first as you can check those for problems much easier than surplus rounds.

 

[Remmy91]

Yeah, the bolt and barrel match.
i probably will buy some brass, non-corrosive rounds, and if the rifle works fine, i'll buy a case of surplus.

Thanks for the info!

 

[George S.]

You probably have already read this, but after shooting the corrosive ammo you want to spray the bore, boltface and action (anywhere the corrosives may have gone) with an ammonia-based cleaner to neutralize them. I use Windex, personally, but there are a lot of options.

Agreed. The primers in the old muilsurp ammo have the corrosive salts and that's why it's important to flush out the bolt face, chamber and the action immediately after a shooting session. I also use Windex with ammonia from a squirt bottle I keep in my range box. You can use plain water or hot water. Then when you get home, just do a regular cleaning job.

The Czech, Polish, and Russian surplus ammo is all corrosive but it really is no different than what the Soviet soldiers used in combat. They knew full well to do a complete cleaning whenever possible. Either the Nazi's would get them if the rifle failed, or they would be sent to Siberia or even shot if they got caught not cleaning their weapons.

Wolf also makes some decent ammo that is brass cased and not terribly expensive.

If you do any reloading, you can get reloadable cases and make your own ammo up. That may help in managing the heavy recoil and getting more accurate ammo to boot. The milsurp is not reloadable (Berdan primed) but the commercial ammo is.

 

[Remmy91]

I really wish I could reload, but i just dont have the money now

Will the windex mess up the stock at all?
I thought i read somewhere that when your using it to clean after shooting, less is better than more.

I'm also looking into the Brown Bear ammo. It's non-corrosive, and a little cheaper than wolf.

 

[gunnerman78]

Nice pick up, when was your 1938 carbine made? I have a Mosin-Nagant 1891-1930 and a 1938 carbine, i shoot mil surplus out of both and in my opion the 91/30 kicks harder than the shorter 38. If you want a rifle that kicks get you a Steyr M.95 in 8x56R. I have a wall full of Military surplus guns. I shoot surplus out of all of them.

 

[gunnerman78]

brown bear, silver bear and golden bear ammo is all good and non-corrosive. I shot it sometimes but mainly i shoot surplus. but wolf is good 2, but remember you get what you pay for

 

[Remmy91]

Mine was made in 1943
Early Christmas present from my parents



Theres a picture of it of it
When i first took it apart, I was surprised that it had barely any cosmoline in it at all. Cleaning was a breeze.

 

[grimjaw]

Will the windex mess up the stock at all?

Remmy91, it can if you slobber it on and don't make an effort to clean it up. The good thing about it is (usually) that the finish job on most of these isn't going to be ooo la la in the first place. You can always refinish it, or probably find another stock for backup.

I don't have as many of the carbines, but it's not because I don't like them. Make sure to take a flat head screwdriver with you to the range, in case the action screws work loose.

jm

 

[meef]

I plan on getting a slip-on limbsaver pad for it.

That is the number one best investment on an M38 that is in good working condition. Everything else comes next.