Mounting Safe & Pedestal on Pier & Beam

[Broke Hoss]

As I continue my search for the perfect safe/RSC, I have to say that THR has provided the most helpful info during my research & I thank ya'll for it.

I'm looking at an RSC that will measure about 60x36x28 & weigh about 800lbs (empty). It will be mounted in a carpeted room inside the house on pier & beam foundation.

I'm considering putting the safe itself on a pedestal; framed & braced with 4x4s with the safe setting on carpeted 3/4" plywood. The pedestal will be bolted through the floor and the safe bolted to 4x4s in the pedestal.

My concern is: Will I need to bolster the foundation under this contraption? If so, what? & how?

 

[Teachu2]

A wood pedestal would create an ideal prying situation, IMO. I would expend that effort below the floor, adding bracing and piers for support.

 

[beatledog7]

A safe that's sitting freely on carpet is less of a pry risk than one that's bolted down.

A pry bar used on a safe that's sitting on carpet serves only to twist that safe in place because the strength of the closing mechanism overcomes the safe's friction with the floor. Add to the carpeted floor a bunch of other stuff that is in the way of pushing the safe over onto its back, and you have a safe that's a lot harder to pry open than one that's "securely fixed."

My safe sits freely on carpet and is in a room where a thief would have to clear a lot of other stuff to get it onto its back. Additionally, it won't fit out the door of that room without removing the door facing. All of that means a thief would probably decide it's not worth it and move on.

 

[Broke Hoss]

I'm not as concerned about prying attacks as I am damage to the flooring here. Between the carpet & the flooring, I don't want the safe to get off level.

This is 1 reason I'm trying to increase the size of safe's "footprint"; to disperse the weight distribution over a greater area. I am curious about the need to bolster the flooring support where the safe will be mounted, and just how to do that, if needed.

It will be mounted in the corner of 2 exterior walls, which should help some.

 

[Teachu2]

I meant it would be easy to pry it off the pedestal and steal it.

Diagnosing your floor's capacity requires a lot more information. How old is the house? How much crawlspace under the floor? Often you can use a screwjack (like for a trailer/mobile home) and a piece of 2x10 to shore up the corner of the safe that isn't adjacent to a bearing wall.

Another consideration will be getting the safe in without damaging the floor along the travel path. If you can remove the door, that will help. You may also want to split a sheet of 3/4 ply to lay down for a path.

 

[Teachu2]

Use shims to level the safe. My 1700lb one sits on carpet over a concrete slab, and was professionally installed. They used plain old wood shims under the front, even though it was being bolted to the slab - the door is heavy and has leverage when open.

 

[Broke Hoss]

I'm planning on paying a local locksmith for the install (learned that from other threads here). But I figger he's just gonna get it in the house, level it & bolt it down.

The house is about 25 yrs old; the crawl space is about 2 ft at that corner. I'm not overly concerned about this, but realize it ain't a slab.

 

[Teachu2]

A screwjack would be just the ticket. Any mobile home supplier or RV shop should have them. Measure the crawlspace so you can get the right height, and allow 4" of extra space. Cut a couple of feet of 2x10 to go above and below, and just snug it up before the safe is installed.

 

[Teachu2]

Even Lowe's has them.

 

[Broke Hoss]

That will be an easy do! I'm gonna be down there anyways bolting the pedestal down. As a matter of fact the jack could push up against what I'm planning on bolting to.

Like I've said, I'm not greatly concerned, but I didn't find anything really covering installing a fairly heavy safe, when full, on pier & beam.

Thanks.

 

[kentucky_Dave]

You can consult the span tables and with a little research determine just how much work is really necessary
Your installer may have suggestions too...and be willing to complete the install for you.

http://www.awc.org/technical/spantables/tutorial.html

 

[Broke Hoss]

You can consult the span tables and with a little research determine just how much work is really necessary
Your installer may have suggestions too...and be willing to complete the install for you.

http://www.awc.org/technical/spantables/tutorial.html

Thank You Sir, this will be very handy in my preparation.