Multiple Mold questions from someone new to bullet casting

[Schwing]

I have never done any bullet casting before but I am not really content ordering bullets 4-6 weeks in advance and then, occasionally, getting projectiles that are not too great. I have melting tools and ladles that I inherited so really just need molds. I would probably start out with a .38/357 and get comfortable with that before moving on to others.

My first question is off-topic but, since I need to choose molds, I would like to sort this out. I am still really unclear as to whether SWCs are actually more accurate than RN bullets. I know they punch prettier holes but are they more accurate? If I don't care about the holes, is RN better (I fully understand that RN cycle more reliably in semi-autos)?

Having said that, I am looking for mold recommendations. Does anyone have a .38/.357 mold that has been tried and true? I prefer something around 158 grains but I see a lot of molds around 125 grains that claim to be good for 9MM as well.... Good/bad idea? For that matter, I will eventually be casting .380, 9mm and .45ACP so any recommendations there would be appreciated as well. What about aluminum vs. Steel molds?

On another side note, I have a couple of Berettas that have barrels that run a little big (about .357). If I have a mold that throws .358 rounds can I still use those in my other guns that run around .355 or is that going to cause problems?

Thanks for all of you guys who have been helping me out over the last few weeks. I am not new to shooting but have only been reloading for about 8 months. Some of the information I have been able to glean from you long time reloaders has been invaluable.

 

[GLOOB]

On another side note, I have a couple of Berettas that have barrels that run a little big (about .357). If I have a mold that throws .358 rounds can I still use those in my other guns that run around .355 or is that going to cause problems?

As long as they pass the plunk test, there's no problem. Some people are convinced that being more than 0.001" larger than the bore will cause accuracy issues. So they go and run the bullet through a sizer, first. Which does exactly what the bore of your firearm was gonna do anyway.

If your chamber is tight, you might not be able to fit the larger bullets, though.

Here's an extreme example. I'm sure this was causing excessive pressures, but that won't happen with oversized cast bullets, as long as your chamber matches your bore!

There have been many experiments and developments of the squeeze bore effect.

My favorite story is one written by Frank DeHaas when he was Technical Editor for the American Rifleman.

A reader wrote that his Japanese Arisaka rifle kicked too hard although it was accurate and he had killed a number of deer with it. Frank asked him to ship it to him for evaluation. What he found was a 6.5mm Arisaka that was rechambered to fire .30-06 ammunition in the original bore. He was amazed that the rifle didn't blow up. It had actually fired .308" factory ammunition through a .264" bore, a reduction of some 44 thousands of an inch!

 

[david bachelder]

I have a Lyman mold I like a lot. It's a 358477. It throws a 150 grain semi wad cutter, (my average is about 155 grains). Your bullet weight will vary with your alloy. More lead .... heavier bullet. It is a four cavity steel mold and it throws the most accurate bullet I cast. My Ruger BlackHawk and my Henry love them in .357 magnum. Currently I cast them with a BHN of 12, and I see no leading problems. I size them to .358 and use LEE Alox tumble lube.

I do not have a round nose bullet mold in .358 so I can't answer that question.

The LEE sizing dies are good, I have several of them. The LEE molds aren't that bad either, you just have to learn how to use them.

I bought it from Midsouth.
see: https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=000152660477

Midsouth had the best price I could find and the service is great. I actually prefer Midsouth nowdays.

 

[Missionary]

Howdy Schwing
Welcome to the world of Freedom ! Making your own projectiles will liberate you from having to pay outrageous prices to manufactures that really offer little more than you can cast at home.
I highly recommend you take a look at Castboolits / Reloads. I have been around casting since I was 4. My dad and his Navy buddy rolled their own 38 Specials and muzzleloaders. When I ETS'd from the pickle suit brigade I got started on my own. Found Castboolits about 7 years ago and no regrets. You will learn more about reality in casting than most "experts" will ever know.
Accuracy with cast if very dependent on having the right diameter. You must fill the groove. A full diameter size Round Nose (RN) will out shoot any undersize SWC. An d also in reverse. A full diameter size soft lead bullet will outshoot a too small rock hard lead bullet. I alsways desire a cast bullet .001 over groove size. In 45 caliber if a .002 will chamber I go with that.
As stated "if it will chamber" is the key. You may have to use a gas checked bullet if a .358 will not chamber. Next option is to get the chamber opened up to accept a fat bullet. You can get a .358 mold and if too fat get the Lee sizer of the diameter you need. They cost about $12 last I saw. For 9mm staight WW (wheel weight) will work fine.
Mike in Peru

 

[Kerf]

I doubt there’s any difference in accuracy between the RN and the SWC style of bullets. I’ve loaded ten of thousands of each and haven’t felt that one was more accurate another. There are so many inherent variables in casting that accuracy would be more affected by than the shape of the nose. Bearing surface of course plays a part in that; the longer, generally the better.

Steel vs. aluminum?: part of casting good bullets is maintaining the heat range of the mould. If the mould is too cool you get crinkles on the bullet and too hot the bullet come out frosty and generally under weight. I’ve always found it easier to maintain that proper heat range with steel moulds. The aluminum has a tendency to over heat if you start going too fast. I prefer going fast. I also use an infrared heat thermometer to check the temp of the lead and the mould so I can maintain the heat range that is working best. Aluminum moulds will work well if that all that’s available.

I would recommend using the four-cavity mould over the one or two for obvious reasons. I have some 8 & 10 cavity which are great if you can get them up to temp before you run out of lead in the pot. I try to pre-heat them on the edge of the lead pot first to bring them up to casting range. Some people just dunk their moulds in the hot lead to get them up to temperature. I’ve never tried that, so wouldn’t recommend it.
Buy the best quality moulds you can afford. They will last you a lifetime with proper care and storage. I think Saeco(?) is still making quality moulds, but they’re expensive. Check internet sale and auction sites for deals on used moulds. Garage sales, estate sales and flea markets are also a good, but unreliable, venue for used mould. I can’t remember the last time I paid retail for a mould. Then again, lead & wheel weights used to be free for the taking.
Sometimes you can use the bullets as they exit the mould with out resizing. Other times you might want to size them down a thousandth or two, or three as need be…you’ll have to experiment and see what works best. There’s no reason you couldn’t size the bullets to different dimensions for a particular gun; it’s just a matter of using different sizing dies in your sizing operation. (I don’t know if that last sentence makes any sense) I think you get the gist of what I mean.

Hope this helps…

kerf

 

[PapaG]

357446, 358156, or RCBS 30 150KT. The first two can be crimped in lower or upper grooves for use in either 38 or 357 brass and all three have proven quite accurate for me. 358156 is a cas check which I use in my security sixes and 686 with fairly warm loads.

 

[rcmodel]

+1 on steel molds.

I have an 8-cavity H&G I can't lift, so it's pretty useless to me.

But I believe a pair of 2-cavity molds will cast more bullets in any given length of time then a single 4-cavity.

With a pair of molds you can let the sprue's harden in one while you are filling the other one.
Then lay it down to harden while picking up the other one cutting the sprue's, dropping the bullets, and refilling it again.

rc

 

[blarby]

My first question is off-topic but, since I need to choose molds, I would like to sort this out. I am still really unclear as to whether SWCs are actually more accurate than RN bullets. I know they punch prettier holes but are they more accurate? If I don't care about the holes, is RN better (I fully understand that RN cycle more reliably in semi-autos)?

Accuracy on these bullets can be better- but is a combination of more accurate scoring ( prettier holes) and the often- but not always- true flat base, as opposed to bevel base, that can be had in many bullet designs...not just this one.

If you want better accuracy- go for flat/plain based bullets. Flat bases provide better obturation in the barrel, and provide more bearing surface- both huge advantages to a bevel base. The sharper holes punched from a SWC design can result in higher (or lower) scores in competition based on more accurate hit counting.

RN bullets WILL cycle much more reliably than SWC's in semiautos if you dont have all of the particulars right on that cartidge/gun combination. As an example, I love 200 SWC's for their economy in 45ACP.... however many of my shooting buddies don't have hybrid magazines, and have different ramp and chamber dimensions- which make using SWC's across the board more problematic. As a result, I load exclusively 230 LRNS for bulk multi-gun use in 45ACP.

Having said that, I am looking for mold recommendations. Does anyone have a .38/.357 mold that has been tried and true? I prefer something around 158 grains but I see a lot of molds around 125 grains that claim to be good for 9MM as well.... Good/bad idea? For that matter, I will eventually be casting .380, 9mm and .45ACP so any recommendations there would be appreciated as well. What about aluminum vs. Steel molds?

All but one of the moulds i use in .358 bullets are out of current manufacture. One however, is. This one :

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/32...l-357-magnum-358-diameter-158-grain-flat-nose

Its a very good bullet.

I prefer SAECO moulds whenever possible. The difference between a high quality mould and an average mould ( like aluminum lee moulds, for example) will become more apparent the more you cast. Mould wear and tear, ease of use, ease of precision sizing, and lube application beome very apparent the more bullets you make and use.

Trying to have "one bullet to feed them all" is a noble effort- but often robs you of the benefits of custimization from gun to gun. I would have no problems tailoring a light load for one gun, and a heavy for another based on a single bullet- but your results might be better using a grain weight appropriate design for each gun based on its individual characteristics ( rifling rate, barrel length, manufacture pattern, etc) and its intended use ( punching paper, self defense, hunting, etc ).

On another side note, I have a couple of Berettas that have barrels that run a little big (about .357). If I have a mold that throws .358 rounds can I still use those in my other guns that run around .355 or is that going to cause problems?

.358 would be optimal for anything normally firing 357 MAG. You should proceed using these bullets eyes wide open, and start at low charge levels and watch for pressure signs in the tighter bores- but I dubt you will see any significant problems. If you do encounter problems, simply obtain a .356 or .35 sizer- the bullets with lube will size approriately.

Thanks for all of you guys who have been helping me out over the last few weeks. I am not new to shooting but have only been reloading for about 8 months. Some of the information I have been able to glean from you long time reloaders has been invaluable.

Thats what were here for !

Ask away, or PM with any more direct questions.

Enjoy your casting !

 

[Zeke/PA]

+1 on steel molds.

I have an 8-cavity H&G I can't lift, so it's pretty useless to me.

But I believe a pair of 2-cavity molds will cast more bullets in any given length of time then a single 4-cavity.

With a pair of molds you can let the sprue's harden in one while you are filling the other one.
Then lay it down to harden while picking up the other one cutting the sprue's, dropping the bullets, and refilling it again.

rc

I have a similiar 8 cavity mold and the sprue/runner contains enough lead for about six .38 special Wadcutters. Needlsees to say I don't use it.
I made several Aluminum molds for pistol stuff and Black Powder and I like them for the ease of casting involved, sprue cutter monitering important. Yellow/ hard brass also lends itself well for a mold material

 

[Certaindeaf]

One multi-purpose mold that I'd recommend would be the Lee 105 grain SWC. It works great out of .380, 9mm, .38 etc. It's pretty stingy on a pound of lead, too. Besides making pretty holes in paper, they are markedly better than RN should you need/want to shoot game with it/them.
Oh, I'd probably just get a double in this one as they are so small, you gotta cast like a demon if you want to open the sprue with your gloved hand.. it cools rapidly.

 

[flipajig]

I have several aluminum molds and like stated they take some time to get used to them I have a Lee mold in 358120 RF witch I use in both 9mm and 38 spc so far I haven't seen a difference in accuracy beteen the RN and the RF. I Preferr a SWC or a RF over a RN if I have to use them for SD or to dispatch a pest the flat nose will cause more damage than a RN.
I have 3 9mm a pair of Ruger P95 and a PC 9 they cycle and run in all three guns I'm also sizing them at 357 ith a RCBS Lubermatic.
Flip

 

[USSR]

...I am looking for mold recommendations. Does anyone have a .38/.357 mold that has been tried and true? I prefer something around 158 grains but I see a lot of molds around 125 grains that claim to be good for 9MM as well.... Good/bad idea? For that matter, I will eventually be casting .380, 9mm and .45ACP so any recommendations there would be appreciated as well. What about aluminum vs. Steel molds?

On another side note, I have a couple of Berettas that have barrels that run a little big (about .357). If I have a mold that throws .358 rounds can I still use those in my other guns that run around .355 or is that going to cause problems?

Schwing,

Having cast bullets for about 35 years, all I can tell you is each mould is unique with attributes (good or bad) unto itself. I have moulds that cast perfect bullets time after time, and moulds that are finicky and problematic. Ya takes your chances. Looking at the cartridges you will be loading (.380, 9mm and .45ACP), you are basically looking at 3 different moulds. The .45 ACP is obvious, but why 2 different moulds for the .380 and 9mm when they are the same diameter? Weight. You want to use a .380 ACP bullet that weighs 105 grains or less. The 125 grain bullets are simply too long and heavy for the .380 ACP. They would have to be seated too deeply in the case, and since the .380 ACP is not a high pressure round like the 9mm, you would not be able to attain a suitable velocity with them. On the other hand, you could use sub-100gr bullets for the 9mm, but they are far from ideal for that cartridge. So plan on getting 3 moulds. I have moulds made of brass, steel, and aluminum, and my preference is in that order. Regarding your question about bullet diameter, there is no problem using .358" cast bullets in either the .380 or 9mm with a .355" bore, as long as they chamber. I am presently loading a 80gr .358" HP bullet in .380 ACP and a .358" 133gr SWC in 9mm. Hope that helps.

Don

 

[grubbylabs]

I have two aluminum molds from custom mold makers and a few brass ones. I have never tried steel ones. But I can tell you their is a huge difference between a custom aluminum and a Lee aluminum. I also have a few lee molds.

I can send you a few 358 bullets sized at 358 and 356 if you would like to try it. I could also send you a few 452 bullets if you would like. The Lee sizing dies work awesome and are inexpensive. The Lee molds work well and are a good mold to get your feet wet with, they are about 20 bucks for a new one. Its hard to go wrong with a 20 dollar mold for finding styles of bullets you and your guns prefer.

If you have been loading long enough that you feel comfortable with load development and making educated guesses I would not hesitate to by a custom mold. Quite a few will even make clones of popular Lyman, RCBS,Lee and others if you ask.