Must have reloading accessories

[lightman]

Its been a while since I studied what comes in most kits, but here goes. First of all choose a method of record keeping. I still use 3 ring binder with a spreadsheet that I designed myself. A loading block, powder funnel and a powder trickeler will speed things up and save lots of spilled powder. You will eventually need a case trimmer and a deburring tool. Later on you will probably want to clean your brass so some type of tumbler would be nice. A zero to 6" caliper is nice. There are lots of choices priced from mild to wild. Down the road you will eventually need a bullet puller and a stuck case remover. You can build your own stuck case remover from commonly available stuff but the factory ones come in a die box which makes it easier to store and keep up with.

Edited to add, a set of small plastic parts drawers is very useful for keeping up with your parts and tools.

As far as choosing a brand, they all work. Some are smoother than others. Some require more tinkering to keep working than others. Some have better customer service than others. Whatever brand you choose I recommend an "O" frame press with compound linkage. Every manufacturer of loading equipment has one in their line-up. Start with a single stage press and later on you can add a turrent press or progressive if you need more speed.

 

[earplug]

A stuck case remover is handy.
Carbide dies, good lighting. A vice.

 

[CQB45ACP]

Here’s some heresy or blasphemy...don’t buy a kit! After reading all these great responses and recalling my personal experience that’s what I believe.

I started with a Lee Classic Turret Kit and today (just 2 1/2 years later) use none of it except the safety prime (but with a different press) and the plastic funnel.

So now I have all this nearly new stuff I’ve got to get rid of—too much of a hassle for me.

Instead just get the needed items as represented in the kit but not from the kit.

 

[badkarmamib]

I'm genuinely curious; what are you able to do, because you have check weights, that you couldn't without?

Verify that my scale is calibrated for the charge weight I am trying to throw. It stays in a drawer to be protected from bumps, and gets set on a bench in whichever unlevel spot is convenient at the moment that it is needed. I heard to use a new dime for a check weight if nothing else is available. That might be close enough at 30-ish grains, but when you can't verify larger weights, a full grain over book max of IMR4350 in a .30/06 makes for some, er, interesting extracted brass...

 

[edwardware]

You should verify every session that your scale is calibrated.

I see your unsupported assertion, but no explanation of why.

For less than $40, I can double check when I load up to max, I'm not going over.

Do you realize that intra-rifle variation in pressure is frequently equivalent to 25% of the min-max load variation in a manual, and it's not uncommon to run into a rifle that's 50% of the variation off. Say the manual specifies 25-30 grains of IMR-X; it's not unusual to find a rifle that shows max pressure signs at 27 grains, and another that shows the same signs at 33gr.

This is why we Start at Start, and work up; there's exactly nothing magic about the manual's Do Not Exceed charge weight unless you have their rifle. If you don't have their rifle, then you need to consider the manual's Max Charge as a data point with ~50% +/- error bars around it.

My point in poking the Calibration Weight sacred cow is to provoke a more careful consideration of measurement statistics; the manual is Data, real live, messy, noisy, data. It is not doctrine.

To use a different explanation: the reloader needs high Precision, and merely adequate
Accuracy, in a scale. Like Bracket Racing, you need the ability to be very consistent, and to make small changes accurately. Your need for absolute comparability (accuracy) vs an outside standard is much less important that your need for consistency (precision).

 

[mdi]

Lots of varying tools, gadgets recommended (opinions). I might suggest to continue using your Lee Loader and as you complete a step ask yourself if there is a tool that might make this easier this or add to this step and is it worth it to me? I'm a K.I.S.S. kinda guy and a lifelong machinist/mechanic so I have 1.83 metric tons of hand tools already. There are many plain old basic tools that can be used as well as or better then "dedicated" reloading tools. For example; the first time I encountered primer crimps I immediately thought of a counter sink. I had several in my tool box so I tried a 60 degree, 1/2 countersink with a 1/4 hex drive. That was several thousand 9mm, 38 Special, 30-06, 7.62x51, 7.62x45r, and 7.62x39 (a counter sink also fixed my unexpected primer pops with my 44 Magnum Lee Loader). I had a "case gauge" for my 45 ACP handloads, but it was much more trouble than it was worth. I already had 2 excellent "gauges"; the barrels of my 2, 45 ACP pistols. Since I don't need laboratory accuracy for a scale, as repeatability is much more import to me than .05 grain accuracy, I don't own any check weights. (At one time I used new coins. Found the weights on line and got a few brand new coins from my bank. Worked quite well). If my handloads differ by .1 grain from the test tech's equipment, but repeatable, same weight every time, that is more than adequate...

So, if you can find one, a reloading vendor's catalog to browse after some reloading to see what tools are available and if they would be worth the extra cost and time to you. Reloading is such a personal thing asking about tools can be very confusing as you'll get many suggestions that may be worth the extra to the person suggesting, but a waste of time and money for you . (I have never trimmed a handgun case, but I measured many and I already had dial calipers and micrometers)...

 

[CQB45ACP]

I see your unsupported assertion, but no explanation of why.


Do you realize that intra-rifle variation in pressure is frequently equivalent to 25% of the min-max load variation in a manual, and it's not uncommon to run into a rifle that's 50% of the variation off. Say the manual specifies 25-30 grains of IMR-X; it's not unusual to find a rifle that shows max pressure signs at 27 grains, and another that shows the same signs at 33gr.

This is why we Start at Start, and work up; there's exactly nothing magic about the manual's Do Not Exceed charge weight unless you have their rifle. If you don't have their rifle, then you need to consider the manual's Max Charge as a data point with ~50% +/- error bars around it.

My point in poking the Calibration Weight sacred cow is to provoke a more careful consideration of measurement statistics; the manual is Data, real live, messy, noisy, data. It is not doctrine.

To use a different explanation: the reloader needs high Precision, and merely adequate
Accuracy, in a scale. Like Bracket Racing, you need the ability to be very consistent, and to make small changes accurately. Your need for absolute comparability (accuracy) vs an outside standard is much less important that your need for consistency (precision).

I just calibrated my Lyman micro-touch 1500 for maybe the third time in 2 years. Why? After reading this back and forth, I read the instructions for maybe the first time in 2 years.

They read in part “It is recommended that the scale be calibrated before each use, or if the scale is moved or jarred in any way.”

 

[Rule3]

For the New Reloader: Thinking about Reloading; Equipment Basics -- READ THIS FIRST


https://www.thehighroad.org/index.p...ding-equipment-basics-read-this-first.238214/

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

Carbide dies, good lighting. A vice.

Well, I quit drinking alcohol in ‘92, quit smoking in ‘19. Are you sure I need a vice?

 

[DustyGmt]

I haven't had a chance to read every reply but I really appreciate the response to this thread. I'm really looking forward to reading the replies. I feel as though I'm in good hands here. Thanks for taking the time....... I'm excited to delve into this aspect of shooting, something I've been interested in for a long time but never got around to. I know there is great knowledge here on THR

 

[Walkalong]

Notes! A must! Keep a dedicated notebook for logging details. By cartridge. I have a habit of lying to myself that I will remember what I did. Not good.

Keeping logs of every detail that you can. Powder charges, bullet OAL, seating depths, etc. It may save you from having to redo a load workup.

Yep, something we often forget to mention, log everything, you can always decide to log less later, it comes in so handy, priceless sometimes.

 

[Hugger-4641]

I see your unsupported assertion, but no explanation of why.


Do you realize that intra-rifle variation in pressure is frequently equivalent to 25% of the min-max load variation in a manual, and it's not uncommon to run into a rifle that's 50% of the variation off. Say the manual specifies 25-30 grains of IMR-X; it's not unusual to find a rifle that shows max pressure signs at 27 grains, and another that shows the same signs at 33gr.

This is why we Start at Start, and work up; there's exactly nothing magic about the manual's Do Not Exceed charge weight unless you have their rifle. If you don't have their rifle, then you need to consider the manual's Max Charge as a data point with ~50% +/- error bars around it.

My point in poking the Calibration Weight sacred cow is to provoke a more careful consideration of measurement statistics; the manual is Data, real live, messy, noisy, data. It is not doctrine.

To use a different explanation: the reloader needs high Precision, and merely adequate
Accuracy, in a scale. Like Bracket Racing, you need the ability to be very consistent, and to make small changes accurately. Your need for absolute comparability (accuracy) vs an outside standard is much less important that your need for consistency (precision).

I agree with what you say about load variation. I happen to own a 30 -30 that will take 5gr over max load of 30-31 behind a 170gr rn. My BIL has one that sees bulged primers at 32gr.
As far as my assertion about check weights:
If you don't know whether your scale is accurate from one use to next use, then you have no idea if the 78grs of H1000 you measured last time is the same 78grs you just saw on the display this time.
Temperature, Humidity, electrical interference, vibration, Moon cycle, Sun activity (laugh if you want, I'm serious), all of these can affect digital scale calibration and I've witnessed it with every scale I've ever seen.
A higher quality scale is usually affected less, but in my experience, most can drift or be out of calibration at any time by as much as 1/2 gr.
That's not a problem if you are always in the middle of safe charge range. But go 1/2 grain too low or too high with some powders like Titegroup and becomes a safety issue instead of just a quality variation.

 

[edwardware]

If you don't know whether your scale is accurate from one use to next use. . .
Temperature, Humidity, electrical interference, vibration, Moon cycle, Sun activity (laugh if you want, I'm serious). . .
A higher quality scale is usually affected less, but in my experience, most can drift or be out of calibration at any time by as much as 1/2 gr.

Perfect, now we're talking!

First precision, vs accuracy. The good Colonel misspoke; it should read, "only precise rifles are interesting" and the corollary should be, "because accuracy is trivial once precision is achieved."

I check zero on my balance beam scale at every use, which maintains consistency day-to-day. If I had an electronic balance made in such a way that both correlation constant and zero point were apt to drift, then a check weight would be called for to confirm both.

 

[Hugger-4641]

Perfect, now we're talking!

First precision, vs accuracy. The good Colonel misspoke; it should read, "only precise rifles are interesting" and the corollary should be, "because accuracy is trivial once precision is achieved."

I check zero on my balance beam scale at every use, which maintains consistency day-to-day. If I had an electronic balance made in such a way that both correlation constant and zero point were apt to drift, then a check weight would be called for to confirm both.

Ok, well now you're also talking about two different kinds of electronic "scale".
Electronic balance and load cell are totally different. Most common hobby grade electronic "scales" are load cell type. That's why most of them have a check weight included with them.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

I agree with what you say about load variation. I happen to own a 30 -30 that will take 5gr over max load of 30-31 behind a 170gr rn. My BIL has one that sees bulged primers at 32gr.
As far as my assertion about check weights:
If you don't know whether your scale is accurate from one use to next use, then you have no idea if the 78grs of H1000 you measured last time is the same 78grs you just saw on the display this time.
Temperature, Humidity, electrical interference, vibration, Moon cycle, Sun activity (laugh if you want, I'm serious), all of these can affect digital scale calibration and I've witnessed it with every scale I've ever seen.
A higher quality scale is usually affected less, but in my experience, most can drift or be out of calibration at any time by as much as 1/2 gr.
That's not a problem if you are always in the middle of safe charge range. But go 1/2 grain too low or too high with some powders like Titegroup and becomes a safety issue instead of just a quality variation.

He’s talking mechanical, you’re talking electrical. Check weights with a mechanical scale tells you if there’s a dead spot or dull spot on the knives/agates of the scale. Which can predict a maintenance session. A good check weight set in a certain range can be useful but I wouldn’t call it essential.

 

[gwpercle]

Pick up something for Primer Pockets and Neck deburring - inside and outside .
You will run into crimped cases , small and large so a crimp removing tool is good along with primer pocket Uniformers . Lyman makes their Universal Case Prep Accessory Set ...it contains all 8 hand tools you will need (cheaper than buying tools one at a time ) along with neck deburring tools .
Lyman #7810212 - $69.99 @ Midway USA
I wish they made this set when I started 50 years ago ... you will find a need for every tool in this kit .
Gary

 

[irishlad]

Yep, something we often forget to mention, log everything, you can always decide to log less later, it comes in so handy, priceless sometimes.

Very good advice. I log more the older I get.

 

[film495]

safety glasses

 

[Highland Lofts]

I have a bunch of presses and other reloading equipment.
Most of the stuff I buy I bought used off of the gun forums and off of ebay. I like RCBS products because they have a no BS customer service department.
If you are missing a part or if something breaks they immediately replace it for free.
I had an issue once with a lee product and wasn't impressed with their customer service.

If you plan on doing a lot or reloading a Hornaday electronic tricker is a must have for just over $40.
I like the cam lock Lyman case trimmers and have several.all with shafts that I can use my cordless screw driver to trim the cases.

A RCBS RockChucker press is a great starter press that you will use for decades and if something ever happens to it they will fix it or give you a new one.
You can also convert it over to the Hornaday Lock n Load bushing.

Buy several reloading manuals for comparing Load data.
Lyman, Hornady and Lee are three good manuals.
But be for warned Richard Lee slaps his own back over & over again threw out the manual.
Buy a good set of six inch dial calipers. I have several used sets that I bought on ebay.

 

[rdnktrkr]

I always suggest to new reloaders a book "The ABCs of Reloading" it answers a lot of questions, I have helped a couple of people start up and suggested the Lee Turret press (you can use it as a single stage by removing the square plastic bushing and vertical shaft) I also suggest a good workbench and plenty of storage (I use large peanut and coffee containers on shelves), A dial or digital caliper, (every time I reload I measure the case length and overall length), A beam scale or "good" digital or both (the digital is faster and I like to check my digital with a beam scale), A case trimmer (I use the Lee quick trim it also deburrs the neck as it trims but you need a $15 die for each cartridge), A powder funnel (cheaper plastic ones work well if you wipe them out with a used dryer sheet) if reloading handgun a powder drop is nice to have but not necessary, get more than one reloading tray so you can move brass from one to the other as you process them, short sections of either plastic or hardwood dowel (I like to insert into the brass to check the powder level), I purchased bins from Harbor Freight and use them beside the press to hold bullets and brass. I'm sure there are a LOT of other things that I can't think of now but others will fill in the gap.

 

[CQB45ACP]

I always suggest to new reloaders a book "The ABCs of Reloading" it answers a lot of questions, I have helped a couple of people start up and suggested the Lee Turret press (you can use it as a single stage by removing the square plastic bushing and vertical shaft) I also suggest a good workbench and plenty of storage (I use large peanut and coffee containers on shelves), A dial or digital caliper, (every time I reload I measure the case length and overall length), A beam scale or "good" digital or both (the digital is faster and I like to check my digital with a beam scale), A case trimmer (I use the Lee quick trim it also deburrs the neck as it trims but you need a $15 die for each cartridge), A powder funnel (cheaper plastic ones work well if you wipe them out with a used dryer sheet) if reloading handgun a powder drop is nice to have but not necessary, get more than one reloading tray so you can move brass from one to the other as you process them, short sections of either plastic or hardwood dowel (I like to insert into the brass to check the powder level), I purchased bins from Harbor Freight and use them beside the press to hold bullets and brass. I'm sure there are a LOT of other things that I can't think of now but others will fill in the gap.

Like this?

 

[rdnktrkr]

Yes, mine is a different color so probably a different edition