My initial costs to start reloading.

[NC-Mike]

I just finished ordering the rest of my reloading equipment and components. Never reloaded one round before but I will soon be ready.

I just wanted to compare my initial cash outlay of the reloading equipment and components to what it would have cost me to buy the ammo and see how I came out.

Components
M193 55gr 1000 - 78.00
22CAL 62GR SS109 500 - 42.00
38 CAL 158 GR 300 - 47.10
45 CAL 230GR 300 - 72.00
Cast Bullets 38CAL 500 - 44.99
Cast Bullets 45 CAL 1000 - 106.00


CPP 8LB SPHERICAL PISTOL POWDER 82.00
WINCHESTER 748 8lbs 118.00
WINCHESTER 231 2 lbs 33.00

Small Pistol Magnum Primers 1000 28.00
Small Pistol Primers 2000 56.00
Large Pistol Primers 2000 49.50
Military Small Rifle Primers 2000 58.00

Reloading Equipment
Lee Classic Turret Press 80.50
Case tumbler 60.00
38 special dies 32.00
45 dies 32.00
.223 dies 20.00
Powder measure 30.00
Scale check weights 26.00
Lee Safety Prime Small and Large 21.00
Bullet puller 16.00
Tumbling Media 16.00
Chamfer and Deburring Tool 15.00
Lee Auto Prime Hand Priming Tool 12.00
Imperial Case Sizing Wax 12.00
Possum Hollow Kwick Case Trimmer 20.00
Possum Hollow power adapter 8.00
Universal Depriming and Decapper 8.00
Frankford Arsenal Micro Reloading scale 32.00
Lee beam scale 21.00
A bunch of other assorted Lee cutters, lube, disks,
and other small stuff. 100.00

Total Components About 816.00
Total Equipment About 560.00

Total outlay 1,376.00


With what I have I will be able to load:

1,300 rounds 45 ACP
800 rounds 38 special or 357 Magnum
1,000 rounds .223 55 grain
500 rounds .223 62 grain.

Estimated Commercial costs for those rounds:
1,300 rounds 45 ACP 26 boxes @ 16.00 - 416.00
800 rounds 38 special or 357 Magnum 16 boxes @ 16.00 - 256.00
1,000 rounds .223 55 grain 1,000 round case - 350.00
500 rounds .223 62 grain. 500 rounds - 200.00

Commercial ammo cost- About 1,225.00

So I spent 150.00 more on my initial setup but I will still have all the equipment, some powder and 3,500 primers left over when I am done so yes I definitely saved money by going with the equipment and loading my own. It looks like I have about paid for my equipment with the first 3,500 rounds I reload and then I will get substantial savings on the rest of the rounds I load.


Sorry if this is mundane. I was curious about the costs myself.

 

[Eb1]

Deleted by Eb1

 

[mikle76]

All the prices look good to me but I see one possible problem. You jumped into the lake in cannonball fashion but don't know how deep it is I hope you haven't bit off more than you can chew and it ruins the experience:banghead:Heres to hope! Seriously, best of luck!

 

[DaveInFloweryBranchGA]

Mike,

The only suggestion I have for you is to go slow, take your time, develop one load for one caliber at a time, load up a few (say, 20 each) and go shoot them in your gun and show they work well before you load tons of ammo that doesn't work well.

For example:

I developed my .45 ACP load by selecting a bullet, buying powder and primers, then working up a load. I started at minimum load and worked my way up a half grain at a time, (10-20 each load) until I found both a lightweight "target" load and an accurate load that would make major if shooting competitively. I was able to develop a load that was powder conservative (didn't waste my expensive powder) and one that would hit hard for knocking over steel targets, etc. Once I did that, I took those two loads and loaded up several thousand of each, proportionate to the usage I planned.

Following the above should save you having to break down several hundred rounds because they don't have enough powder to function your pistol or they're too hot.

Regards,

Dave

 

[NC-Mike]

All the prices look good to me but I see one possible problem. You jumped into the lake in cannonball fashion but don't know how deep it is I hope you haven't bit off more than you can chew and it ruins the experienceHeres to hope! Seriously, best of luck!

Yeah I know but the reason I did it like that is because I have been researching and mulling this over for close to two years.

I'm committed to it and should have everything I need. It took me a couple months and many a time filling and emptying an online shopping cart before I finally settled on just what my trimming parameters would be. Google has truly been my friend through all of this.

I'm an industrial mechanic by trade and deal with rebuilding machinery and close tolerances so I know I can deal with it, I just needed to commit myself to do it and cough up the initial cost to make it worth my while in my own mind.

I had a lot of fears of primers backing out, case-head separations, double charges and squib loads dancing around my head for a long time. The reason I finally decided to plunge in is because I'm confident of my ability as a craftsman to be careful, do it right, save some money and come out the other side with some quality ammo.

 

[HJ857]

Being only a couple years in to loading myself, I'll say that you're numbers and expectations look about right.

But also being a couple years down the road, I think you're spending money on things you don't need, and I suggest considering exchanging a couple items if possible.

The check weights, micro scale and Lee safety scale could be replaced by an RCBS 750 scale, for around 20 bucks more and it comes with it's own check weights. Great bang for the buck. I find mine to be utterly reliable and I wish I had known better right from the start.

I vastly prefer the Lee hand held primer over the press mounted primer system. It gives you very good feedback on primer seating and I've come to really appreciate that feedback. The first time you get a primer fall out of a loaded round, you'll understand. it's not dangerous, but very annoying. So for me the press mounted primer system was a waste of money.

If you go with the hand held auto prime, buy more handles, you will need them. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=227351

Lee case lube is nice to have on hand for doing a few cases. But for sizing a bunch of cases at a time, this lube or something similar is far, far faster. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=204960

A good funnel is more than worth the price, for loading multiple calibers, this works really well. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=554122

You're going to find that bullet seating depth/OAL can be frustrating. This device will make your life a lot easier, though it may not make any sense right now. You can put this on the back burner, but definitely look in to at some point. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=231904

Don't mess with a kinetic bullet puller. Get something like this, simple, fast, clean. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=851547

Take it slow, be precise and it'll all fall in to place very rapidly.

 

[NC-Mike]

Mike,

The only suggestion I have for you is to go slow, take your time, develop one load for one caliber at a time, load up a few (say, 20 each) and go shoot them in your gun and show they work well before you load tons of ammo that doesn't work well.

For example:

I developed my .45 ACP load by selecting a bullet, buying powder and primers, then working up a load. I started at minimum load and worked my way up a half grain at a time, (10-20 each load) until I found both a lightweight "target" load and an accurate load that would make major if shooting competitively. I was able to develop a load that was powder conservative (didn't waste my expensive powder) and one that would hit hard for knocking over steel targets, etc. Once I did that, I took those two loads and loaded up several thousand of each, proportionate to the usage I planned.

Following the above should save you having to break down several hundred rounds because they don't have enough powder to function your pistol or they're too hot.

Regards,

Dave

Thanks Dave, that is my plan exactly! I hope to work up a standard load in 45ACP that I will shoot in 2 pistols, a 55 GR .223 load I will shoot in 3 rifles. I can play around a little with a heavy 62 GR load for a Sig 556 that will use the 62 GR loads exclusively but I didn't do this to constantly tinker with loads. I want to work up a good, solid load and then make them by the hundreds.

As you say, while I'm getting my recipe, I'll load up ten or twenty, go shoot them and take careful notes. Once I'm happy with the load, that's where I'll stay. Everything I ordered and everything I plan to do is geared to developing an "off the shelf" type, reliable load that will save me cash and still be quality and safe ammo.

 

[NC-Mike]

Being only a couple years in to loading myself, I'll say that you're numbers and expectations look about right.

But also being a couple years down the road, I think you're spending money on things you don't need, and I suggest considering exchanging a couple items if possible.

The check weights, micro scale and Lee safety scale could be replaced by an RCBS 750 scale, for around 20 bucks more and it comes with it's own check weights. Great bang for the buck. I find mine to be utterly reliable and I wish I had known better right from the start.

Too late for exchanges now. I bought the scales to verify the charge thrown from the Lee dispenser. I plan to throw a charge, weigh it and then then charge the case. I'm not looking for automation at this point.

I vastly prefer the Lee hand held primer over the press mounted primer system. It gives you very good feedback on primer seating and I've come to really appreciate that feedback. The first time you get a primer fall out of a loaded round, you'll understand. it's not dangerous, but very annoying. So for me the press mounted primer system was a waste of money.

If you go with the hand held auto prime, buy more handles, you will need them. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=227351

From what I've read, I've decided to prime off the press as well. I bought the safety prime with an eye towards the future when I start to reload 9mm. Now I realize you could blow up a 9mm just as easily as any other round but I wanted to have the prime on press option to try it out and see if I have the necessary comfort level with that method to load live ammo. For now, I'm sticking with the hand-priming tool for the feedback it provides.

Lee case lube is nice to have on hand for doing a few cases. But for sizing a bunch of cases at a time, this lube or something similar is far, far faster. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=204960

A good funnel is more than worth the price, for loading multiple calibers, this works really well. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=554122

You're going to find that bullet seating depth/OAL can be frustrating. This device will make your life a lot easier, though it may not make any sense right now. You can put this on the back burner, but definitely look in to at some point. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=231904

Got a funnel, got Imperial case lube which everyone seems to love and got a good swiss made caliber...

BTW, the Midway links are not working for me.

Don't mess with a kinetic bullet puller. Get something like this, simple, fast, clean. http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpag...eitemid=851547

Take it slow, be precise and it'll all fall in to place very rapidly.

I had a cam-lock puller and appropriate collets in my cart when I decided that I'm just not going to allow myself to make that many mistakes and bought the inertia puller as a backup.

And believe me, I'm going to go very slow on this. I plan on being rock-solid on my recipe before I load any round in quantity.

 

[pinkymingeo]

I'm shooting 20K annually at a cost of approximately $13 per hundred, or $2600 a year. My shooting mix of 357/10mm/41mag/44mag/45acp (just dropped 45LC but added 223) would cost about $50 per hundred with store-bought ammo (conservative), or $10,000 a year. Makes a difference.

 

[RustyFN]

Mike I think you will be happy with the classic turret. It is very easy to setup and operate. A couple of things I didn't see but might be under other small stuff are extra turrets and a reloading manual. It is very fast and easy to change calibers when every die set has it's own turret. I load 9mm, 38/357, 45 auto and 223 on mine and have found the safety prime to be near flawless for large and small primers. It might take a little adjusting but once you get it right it makes loading so much faster. I have been loading on a CT for two years and think it's an awesome press. I hope you enjoy yours as much as I have enjoyed mine. If you have any questions or problems setting up let us know. Congrats and welcome.
Rusty

 

[NC-Mike]

Rusty,

Yep, I bought three extra turrets. I'll have 4 total and will start reloading for 3 calibers. I bought an extra so I'll stick the universal decapper in that one. I absolutely want to set my dies up and leave then leave them alone on extra turret heads. For 9 dollars each, that's a luxury you can afford to have.

Another thing I liked about the Lee Classic is you can use it as a single stage press when you want to. I can't see how the Lee Classic is anything but a good choice. My press came in this week and it looks to me to be a nice piece of machinery. Simple but rugged enough for the job.

 

[NC-Mike]

I'm shooting 20K annually at a cost of approximately $13 per hundred, or $2600 a year.

You must be casting your own bullets. That's the only way to shoot at that cost level. Casting is something I'm thinking about when I get a little bit down the road.

 

[RustyFN]

You must be casting your own bullets. That's the only way to shoot at that cost level. Casting is something I'm thinking about when I get a little bit down the road.

I think that's about average for buying bullets. My price for loading 45 auto with my own cast bullets is $30 per 1,000.
Rusty

 

[NC-Mike]

I think that's about average for buying bullets. My price for loading 45 auto with my own cast bullets is $30 per 1,000.
Rusty

Let me the project my costs for .45

Right now I can scrounge brass so zero cost there.

100 Primers- 2.50
100 Oregon Trail cast 230 Gr RN Boolits- 10.60
470 grains of powder- About a buck.

So that's 14.10 per hundred or about 7 bucks a box which saves big money over buying commercially for at least 16 bucks a box for brass cased ammo.

So you're right, pinkymingeo could be buying cast bullets at that cost level.

Wow! I think I will like this.

 

[Griz44]

Do a lot of shopping around for bullets. Most of the time you can find deals on plated or FMJ for close to the cost of cast. I cast my own, and even throwing in a little for electricity and propane, figure the cost for projectiles at around 2.5 cents each. I reload 45acp mainly at less than 7.00 per hundred. You're gonna love reloading, and have the right attitude and style to be good at it. Take your time and enjoy!

 

[RustyFN]

I guess the key is getting the WW's free. I get all of my WW's for free. I didn't figure any gas to smelt them because a tank cost $20. I can smelt 1,000 pounds with that. The 1,000 pounds will make 35,000 bullets. That's 57 cents per 1,000 bullets. I got a C&R license to save money on reloading supplies and gun parts. The C&R license cost $30 and is good for three years. With the license at Graf's I can buy primers for $16 per 1,000 and most powders for $12 per pound. I never buy brass, I pick it up at the range. I wanted to explain my cost because it does take a little effort but if you are willing to do it you can save quite a bit.
Rusty

 

[NC-Mike]

Hehehe, I'm going to send a copy of my C&R over to Graf's as well.

Midway does not give that great a discount and i don't think Widener's offers one at all.

Right now casting seems like a whole nother world but after I load up a couple thousand commercial cast rounds, I might be ready to give it a try. I never really shot cast ammo before except some Ultramax reloads I put through a .40 I had and it severely leaded the barrel. I wasn't to happy with them and have stayed away since.

 

[NC-Mike]

I wonder if you now have to call Graf's about a FFL03 discount?

I only see where you can submit an FFL01 for a dealer log-on on their website.

 

[RustyFN]

I set mine up over the phone, it was easy and didn't take long. You will still need to mail them a signed copy of your C&R. If I'm not mistaken I think you can also fax them a signed copy. So you can get an idea of the discounts click the "dealer logon" tab and type in reloader01 for the password. That will let you in but not order until you are setup. Brownells also gives a nice discount.
Rusty

 

[buck460XVR]

NC-Mike.........sounds like an investment for a lifetime of fun. My only suggestion may be to be careful buying large quantities of powders/bullets until you have found which ones work the best for your gun/situation. I too did a lot of research before I got into reloading and between suggestions from boards like this one and other places, bought powders and bullets that were not really the best for me, my guns and my hunting/shooting situations. One of the most eye opening facts that reloading has taught me is that powder/bullet combinations play a very important role as far as accuracy and pleasure to shoot......and what works well for one person/gun is barely acceptable to another. Yes they still work, but after finding others that work/shoot better, you may find yourself like me, leaving them on the shelf instead of using them. Not very cost effective.

Good luck and have fun.

 

[NC-Mike]

Yeah Buck, I did think about that so I bought the most "bread and butter" components I could find to start off with.

I won't be going with any exotic or match components yet. I just want to make my own blasting ammo.



And plus 1 to Brownells on their dealer discount.



When I think of the money I have spent in anticipation of political events to come, it makes me a little queasy...