my top five survival knives

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Skillet

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so here is my rankings of the top five survival knives.

the requirements- they have to be found under one hundred dollars, and the blade length has to be about seven inches and under. They also have to be fixed blade knives to provide strength, and all of these blades are very adequate for a survival situation that needs some strength in the blade.

#5- the Buck 119 Special Fixed Blade Knife

This knife has gotten many good reviews and I have only used it a couple of times but I really like it. what really stands out to me in this knife was the price. I found it for $46 on Amazon.com. that's a deal. the blade design is such that it can be used for skinning and whittling, but it probably has trouble cutting rope due to the lack of serrations on the blade. the handle looks very nice, but due to it's material it probably could slip out of your hands alot more easily than some other survival knives when your hands are wet or covered with blood. also, the sheath is just a plain leather sheath that is not very safe compared to tougher ones, and a fall could shove the knife easily through it from what i could tell. for that i put it on the fifth spot on my list for the top five survival knives.

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#4- the Ka-Bar Next Generation Fighting Knife

The classic USMC purposed designed knife is fourth on my list. It's updated version is quite awesome. at the top end of our blade length requirements, It can be somewhat bulky to carry around but the blade length comes in handy when bigger jobs are needed. the serrations provide good cutting action on synthetic materials, as well as of course, rope. the powder coating repels rust, and the 440a steel is quite good. But, there are a few downsides to this knife. It's HEAVY. compared to the next knives on my list, it is like a brick. but I think that the classic design of this knife with the few flaws fixed from the older design does well at placing this knife at #4.

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#3- The Cold Steel 38CK SRK Survival Knife

I thought i had to throw a cold steel knife in here for all you cold steel folks, and i found one that fits a survivalist's needs. The Cold Steel SRK survival knife is a very pretty, durable, and comfortable knife. at about 71 dollars on Amazon, it's not cheap, but the overall design is worth it. with a finger guard that only extends out the bottom, you can choke up on the blade spine to do more careful workings on wood or skinning of some sort. the handle is made of a rubberized type substance, and looks to be a very good quality especially for gripping when your hands are wet. now the downsides of rubber is that when in cold conditions rubber tends to do some weird things, and rubber can be cut quite easily compared to harder plastics. but, the blade is made of an AUS-8 steel and will do fine for all sorts of jobs needed for a knife. the coating is good, a black powder epoxy coat, which helps with rust, and the straighter edge can do things that some curvier blades cannot. the sheath is Cold Steels secure Ex-sheath, which i have heard good things about. But, this blade lacks serrations, which you want in a survival knife. so this knife goes to the #3 slot on my list.

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#2- The Gerber LMF 2 Infantry knife

I have heard many good things about this knife, and I have also used it on occasion in the past. this is one good knife. Many swear by it, and for good reason. this knife has serrations, a black coating, and a good shape. The handle sports three holes, so it can be lashed to a stick with shoelaces to make a spear. the end cap is a strong stainless steel and is pointed so it can peirce glass with no problems. the handle has some sort of an insulation to protect against electric shock when cutting live wires (military purpose). The sheath has a built in sharpener, and is MOLLE capable. the only downsides to this knife is the lack of extra texture in the handle to help you grip the knife in wet conditions, the price is a hefty seventy five dollars on Amazon, the weight of this knife is about 11.4 ounces, and the sheath does not have add-on capabilities for a multi-tool or some other tool, which my #1 Knife does include.

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#1- The SOG SEAL pup knife

I placed this knife at the top of my list because of the huge battery of tests that SOG placed it through to give it it's name. they submerged this knife under saltwater for three days then let it sit out in the air to dry off on it's own and it did not rust. the SEAL pup knife weighs a feather 5.4 oz, and you hardly know its there when you are carrying it. The AUS 6 special powder coated blade will do all sorts of tasks, because of the nice serrations about a quarter of the way down the blade it can cut through rope very easily and the curved end can whittle on wood like it's soap. the super textured but non-blistering handle made of Zytel is very very durable and will not slip out of your hand when wet at all. speaking of wet, the powder coating on this blade will just bead water off of it like it's no problem. you can get this knife in an elite version, which has a thicker blade and has notches on top of the spine a good way down the blade. also comes in straight edge. this knife is extremely sharp, and I have cut myself with it once already.
It comes with two types of sheaths, one is a smaller lighter kydex with a notch in the sheath so you can cut small rope with it while it's in the sheath. the Nylon sheath has kydex inside of it, and has a pocket on the outside for a multi-tool or a magnesium fire starter, and is MOLLE capable as well. The velcro and buttton tie down for the knife while it's in the sheath makes it near impossible to get this thing to come out of the sheath without undoing it. the raised spine in two places makes it possible for me to choke up on the blade to do some more precise work. IMHO, this is the best survival knife out there, and the cheapest on our list below the buck, at $54 on amazon. (cant get much better then that) The name says it all. :)

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This list is just my opinion. some may disagree with it, some may not, but take the information and use it, because it is very helpful.

So, let me ask, what is your top five survival and outdoor knives?
 
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A few points about my preferences first. Foremost, I don't think chromium belongs in a tough field knife. Rust is simply an overblown concern for anyone who is capable of caring for their gear. Chromium, which makes blades stainless also makes them weaker. I also believe that serrations do not belong on a knife. A properly sharpened plain edge with good geometry can and will cut rope, webbing and like materials with relative ease without getting hung up on meat or hides like serrations can. Serrations also provide stress points in the steel and are usually on the worst location for them on the blade. The power spot for wood working, such as making fuzz sticks or carving trap triggers, is usually where one finds serrations located on "survival" knives that sport them. Serrations don't bite wood as cleanly and evenly as plain edges do. They are just in the way. Forget serrations and get a small field sharpener like a DMT Diafold and learn how to properly maintain your edge.

I have listed some of the best carbon steel blades on the market that can meet anyone's price point. Three are commercially available with no waiting, the two most expensive ones are customs.

Mora Triflex Craftsman ~$15.00

A differentially tempered carbon steel knife that probably represents the most bang for the buck ever in the knife world.

For $15.00, beat the ever living hell out of it.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIBl_IeATns

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4" Jarvenpaa Carbon Steel Puukko ~$50.00

(The top one). A very fine mass produced carbon steel knife that will be sharp enough, thanks to its "zero degree" edge from its Scandinavian grind, that it will cut anything. Another benefit of the scandi grind is that the sharpening angle is foolproof as it is ground into the blade.

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RAT Cutlery RC-4P ~$100.00

A 4" flat ground blade of wonderfully heat treated 1095 carbon steel, needlessly coated against the elements and featuring canvas micarta handle slabs. Developed by guys who trip to the Amazon basin every year and know what works and have left out what doesn't. If you somehow break this knife, they have a no BS replacement policy.

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Skookum Bush Tool Mk. 1 in CPM3V ~$220.00

This is a knife created as the real world vision of Mors Kochanski's perfect field knife as described in his outdoors masterpiece Bushcraft. Essentially what you have here is a full tang constructed puukko with perhaps the best handle geometry ever put on a knife and using canvas micarta for the scales. The striking plate for cracking nuts, breaking open a animal skull, or whatever, is TIG welded onto the end so skillfully that you cannot tell how it is on there. The CPM 3V tool steel is about as tough as it gets on a knife that is still able to be field sharpened. A drawback is that it took an eighteen month wait to get mine.

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Fehrman Shadow Scout in CPM3V ~$240.00

For a faster custom experience it is tough to beat this knife. The wait will be about six weeks on the outside and what you get is more than worth the wait. Unlike many "sharpened prybars" made of .25 inch stock, this knife is 3/16ths of an inch thick so as to provide better edge geometry, reduced weight, and increased flexibility. Again, CPM3V is providing a next to bombproof blade. Cons are that sheaths are extra because in this price class, many buyers will have custom rigs built as well.

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The reasons why I placed the SOG SEAL pup knife at the front of the pack is because A- it can come with or without serrations and B- you can get it in a plain non-coated blade. the variety of options with that knife makes it a better option for a survival knife.
 
A better option than what? That SOG is made out of a crappy steel choice. On its best day AUS8 is unimpressive. Zytel gets tacky (begins to chemically melt) when it encounters DEET in any concentration or over long exposures to it. The handle is glued on like the $15.00 Mora's is.

The swoopy and raspy spine looks cool, but it will chew up any baton you try to split a wood round with, and doesn't provide a good ninety degree striking surface to translate the baton's force into work anyways. Stainless steel will also not throw reliable sparks when struck against a piece of chert, flint, or jasper if that is all you have to start a fire.

The SOG looks the part, but I don't consider it a good choice, serrated or not.

I wasn't going to go there and just list my own choices, but here we go:

Buck 119--Low end stainless steel that doesn't hold an edge very long. Not solidly constructed. Slippery phenolic resin handle. Top thumb guard complicates many common tasks and grips. Cheap sheath limits mounting options to right side hip.

Next Gen KaBar. Slightly better steel than the 420HC used by Buck, but 440A is still closer to bad than exceptional. Stick tang construction is weak at the the point where the guard goes on. This knife can easily be bent at the handle. The striking pommel is made of powdered metal secured by a pin. The rubberlike grip is prone to chemical melting by the best mosquito repellants. At least the KaBar usually features a useable sheath.

CS SRK--Again made of a midmarket Taiwanese stainless steel. May not be well designed beneath the handle as the knife could have twin 90 degree cuts that create stress risers that could compromise the blade. When a knife is not full tang constructed, the areas beyond the blade have to be reduced down for attaching the handle using a curved grind or cutaway going towards the pommel. Some large CS knives like this have cracked off at handle when beaten upon because of this "squared off" design error. They may have changed this since their former contractor Camillus went out of business--but who knows?

Gerber LMF--Like many Gerber products since acquisition by Fiskars, this started off as a good concept with okay execution and then went down hill fast from there. This knife used to be made with a middling, but decent stainless steel called 12C27, from a very good iron ore only found in Sweden. Then Gerber cheaped it out and went to 420HC, which is barely acceptable as cutlery steel and even then only Buck does it any justice at all. I'd avoid this knife for hard use.

So, long story short. They mostly look pretty anyways.
 
Playing the game and staying below $100.00

Fallkniven F-1 ~$95.00

The actual survival knife of the Swedish Air Force. This is a true full tang constructed knife made with a laminated blade. It's stainless, which isn't my preference, but VG-10 is an excellent stainless cutlery steel.

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Becker BK7 Combat Utility by KaBar ~$75.00

Full tang 1095 CroVan carbon steel. Striking pommel. Decent handle slabs that can be replaced with home made or aftermarket slabs rather easily.

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Benchmade CSK II ~$85.00

Full tang 1095 CroVan carbon steel construction. MOLLE compatible sheath.

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Personally, I'd rather have a small fixed blade or stout folder. Not sure why I'm supposed to need any knife over about 5" for survival purposes.... And I'd be quite happy with only a 3" one.

The best survival knife is the one on your person when you find yourself in a survival situation.... And you probably won't plan to be in that situation. It'll be after the car wreck on a remote country road, or after the "big one", or when you get lost on a daily wander. You won't have your 8" pseudo-bowie. And you probably won't need it either.

You may well have your EDC pocketknife. Choose a good one.

J
 
I think 3" is too short and a folder for "survival" need not apply. I look at this exercise as "What do you take with you on purpose away from civilization?" rather than "What do you have on you at the time of an incident to MacGyver with?"

A four to five inch blade will allow for more processing of firewood and for the easier making of improvised shelters than a smaller one will because the length will be useful for larger batoning jobs, as easy to carry as a three and not weigh much more. Beyond that to six inchers and above one is looking at light choppers, up to thickened machetes, and the sharp prybars I alluded to earlier. If going into the woods with that kind of processing power an axe is tougher, and a folding saw more productive for less effort, and the smaller knives better at being knives.

I do never go anywhere without a Swiss Army Knife that has a saw blade on it, and a Benchmade Rukus, but in the woods I'd rather have something tougher.
 
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Boats has some great survival knife choices. I'm a huge fan of the Fallkniven knives, and the Benchmade CSK seems to me to be what the Cold Steel knife should have been.
 
Hey Boats, since you seem to know a boatload about steels and knives, and I admit to knowing little about knife steel, I was wondering if you could answer me something. I know a lot of amateur knife guys make carbon steel knives out of old concrete saw blades. What kind of steel is this and is there any merit to its use as knife-making material?
 
Just me,


Spyderco Endura

Beker BK-11

My own 3.25 inch, I made

My mora

SAK spartan

3 of the above 5 are with me at all times plus a mini mag and a gun of some type
 
think 3" is too short and a folder for "survival" need not apply. I look at this exercise as "What do you take with you on purpose away from civilization?" rather than "What do you have on you at the time of an incident to MacGyver with?"

I often take just these away from civilization in warmer months, though I just got myself a hatchet small enough not to be left at home.

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A SAK model of your choice is a perfect addition for survival. And this fixed blade only has a 3" blade. I feel quite confident that they will serve my needs, and I practice my "woodsbumming" skills often.

Having a knife, any knife, in a survival situation would be a big +. But I really feel other stuff you can have on you is more important.

My personal EDC "survival" stuff....just so I have stuff on me in case I "lose" my pack.

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With it I can build shelter, purify and transport water, treat minor wounds, fish, make fire, etc...
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That being said these are my personal "Survival" top five. One isn't a fixed blade, and one isn't even a knife, two are over the OP's $100 limit.

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As I don't suscribe to the entire "one knife" survival thing,I am a firm believer in the Nessmuk trio concept, I just pick one fixed from these to go with the hatchet and SAK. Then I am set for any outdoors survival.

Right tool(s) for the job(s).
 
I disagree about the buck 119's sheath if it is the same leather one that used to come with the 119 years ago. It seems plenty secure and safe to me. I rather like it. The blade on mine tended to chip and not stay sharp long enough. It hasn't been used in years. The 119 is one pretty knife in my opinion.

My Becker BK7 has laughed off all the (ab)use I've put it through, but I find it too big to be used easily. For the last few years every time I've gone camping or hunting I've just taken a 4" Mora craftsman with me in addiction to normal pocket knife. I find its smaller size and thinner blade to be more practical than the larger survival/hunting knives.

Just my 2 cents
 
If you haven't actually taken it to the field to prepare a primitive camp site then why include a knife in the "best" list. What possible basis for an opinion can you have that anyone will respect?
 
millertyme--

I haven't personally heard of anyone using the steel from a concrete saw blade because usually that steel is fused with some other metal on the perimeter which acts as a carrier for diamond dust, which I wouldn't think would be welcome in a knife as it would likely chip out of the steel matrix over time as it is used and sharpened should any make it into the final blade.

That said, what almost all saw blades have in common is being a high strength high temperature tool steel with some lateral flexibility. There are worse steels to make knives out of than old saw mill and band saw blades, the usual sources of "saw blade knives." Using modern saw blade steel starts moving out of the realm of do it yourself because the same characteristics that make it high speed steel make it difficult to re-temper into a knife blade without a good controlled furnace.

It is said that in certain Third World countries, blacksmiths make knives from the leaf springs of trashed high end cars and trucks, such as those made by Mercedes Benz, as the spring steel is a classic material for making good blades and is relatively easy to work with.
 
Just my opinion, but any knife considered for survival use must have at least a rudimentary guard of some sort.

You ain't lived until you've had a razor sharp Pukka slip through a cold numb & blood slick hand and almost cut all your fingers off!

BTDT!

It could / would be a life threatening injury in a true survival situation.

rc
 
I don't knock three inch knives, I just prefer mine to be at least four so that I can baton larger rounds if I want to.

I also adhere to the Nessmuk trio in wooded areas, mine being the Skookum Bush Tool Mk. 1 in CPM 3V, a SAK Forester, and a Roselli R850 axe. However, an axe would be worse than a machete/chopper where dense undergrowth rules the earth, so those do have their place.

If the terrain is frozen, a folding hand saw is safer and more productive than an axe.
 
A puukko is a knife that demands correct technique to wield correctly. Not to knock you, but it is rather like keeping your trigger finger out of a Glock until you are ready to fire.

You'll note that all properly designed puukko style knives have a flat pommel. This is a design decision that evolved over hundreds of years of Scandinavians using knives in freezing weather, precisely the conditions where one would be most clumsy and prone to cutting one's self. So, why no guard?

Because you do not need one. A guard can hang you up inside of an animal and make for a tremendously dangerous blind loss of the knife. A guard can offer a false sense of security and still be overriden by bad technique. Finally, a guard can harbor rust and/or bacteria and is difficult to clean as constructed on a great many knives.

A puukko in the hand is to be used only for draw cutting and not push cutting. That is a stroke of the knife when cutting on the horizontal plane is always drawn towards the body, or drawn across the body, from left to right for a right hander and reversed for a left. The knife is to absolutely NOT BE pushed away going forward from the body or forward from the power side going outwards, where the hand can ride up on the blade in the event of a mistake or mishap.

To cut wood, you use a vertical technique requiring a downwards power stroke with all fingers and thumb wrapped around the handle while pushing downwards towards the ground. If the blade hangs in the wood, your grip is broken away from the knife, just like on a draw cut. If it slips, or skips off, you wind up punching towards the ground, but your fingers are still safe on the handle.

Getting back to the flat pommel, it's there for the times that a push cut or a stab into something is required by circumstance. One can either aim the tip at what one wishes to penetrate and baton the end of the handle, or if the target is softer, align the knife with the off hand and power it into the item being penetrated with a push by the palm of the power hand upon the end of the pommel. No fingers need be near the blade.

Puukkos are perfectly safe if used as intended.
 
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For the OP. Can you expand on this??? Why??

But, this blade lacks serrations, which you want in a survival knife.


In your post you seem to assume a non-serated edge will not cut rope. I can assure you those plain edge knives in my photos will go through rope like it were butter.

As well serrations get in the way of fine wood work. Which is essential in "survival" for building the many things you might need.

While it is true dull serrations can mangle their way through materials a dull plain edge wont, field sharpening isn't hard. I always have a couple of squares of sandpaper in my wallet, a couple more with a foam pad in my pack,plus smooth rocks are fairly easy to come across.
 
hso wrote:

If you haven't actually taken it to the field to prepare a primitive camp site then why include a knife in the "best" list. What possible basis for an opinion can you have that anyone will respect?

Who are you addressing in that quote? For instance, I have never owned a Fallkniven, only handled a friend's, but its construction is impeccable, it is made out of top shelf materials at its price point, and it is very similar in size and performance to the RC-4, which I do own. I think people can have valid opinions on knives they haven't extensively used if they can relate the pros and cons of the knife to a reasonably close referent that they have owned and used.

Pros for the Fallkniven against a RC-4:

More corrosion resistant.
More cushioned and slightly grippier handle material
No choil.
No coating.
Slightly lower cost.

Cons:

Steel not as tough nor as easy to field sharpen.
Handle is not as tough nor removeable.
Sheath is inferior zytel as opposed to kydex.
No exposed pommel for striking nuts or other purposes.
Inferior warranty.
 
I chose that knife as the number one knife because it did go through the tests, and it's not purely hypothetical talking. a stainless regular blade might do nice, but what's the point of arguing that point if a coated blade will do just as well? Serrations are also put on a blade for a reason, and I really like them. I can cut through wood just fine with it, and in a survival situation you want something that can saw through a piece of wood, because your not making an indian carving. The SOG SEAL pup knife was put through the tests by the navy SEALS of all groups, and it survived. All the rest of the talk is hypothetical, and Don't get me wrong, but there is a difference between theory and practice. And they are just my opinion anyways, so I don't see why it's such a big deal. To you, they may be just some good looking knives, but to me, they serve a purpose.

And the steel type doesn't really matter to me. if you are going to abuse a knife to the point of where a certian type of decent steel can't stand the abuse, you are not taking very good care of your knife. just my opinion.
 
mljdeckard are you saying you actually used a Mk II to cut and split wood and dress fish and game?:confused:
 
Skillet said:
And the steel type doesn't really matter to me. if you are going to abuse a knife to the point of where a certian type of decent steel can't stand the abuse, you are not taking very good care of your knife.

You should probably just quit while you're (sort of) ahead.

"Taking care" of one's knife has nothing to do with it; if you ever actually take a knife out into the boonies for a while, you're going to start caring a whole lot more about the steel when you have to stop every five or ten minutes to spend an equal amount of time getting your knife sharp enough to actually do work again - if it's even possible to resharpen at all with what you have on hand, once it's that far gone.

Serrations are a useful thing to have for a few varied purposes, and, at best, a waste of blade real estate for most others. An inch or two of serration makes for a really crappy saw - I'm assuming you've not tried that either - and if you expect to be doing much heavy-duty branch-chopping you should have a hatchet or somesuch anyway.
 
For a survival knife, or any knife really, i'd prefer a high carbon steel, non-folding design with a large blade. I'd prefer a Ka-Bar with 1095 or d2 blade steel.

This would be ideal for me, I'm not crazy about the serrations but i can't find one with a plain edge.

I also like the cold steel bushman for its good, high carbon steel and toughness.

Or the CRKT FTWS, good SK5 carbon steel and two edges to play with...
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