I'm presuming you're using this as a inside the shot cup wrap
Nope. They'd be a buffer all on their own against lead shot, on top of a gas seal. The OS card is a great idea- and those Tyvek ones look just the bees knees.
My question is, would .010 mylar wraps work the same ?
well
more inexpensive stuff they would tell you or not even bother to give the other recipie IMHO.
If it was me selling it to you, I'd tell you the same, right or wrong. Thats not an accurate answer, its a useful and prudent(for your bank account) place for you to stop the discussion. It's interesting that in this case, BPI doesn't address it- they tell you to buy a wad and mylar, or just teflon- both of which magically comes out to right around the same price per shot-
I'll be danged. They manage to dance around the question magically- by not bringing it up.
They both would be accomplishing the same purpose. They have the same thickness, for that purpose.
If teflon reduces the pressure from 11,500 to 8500- great. If it reduces it from 9500 to 8500, and mylar reduces it from 9500 to 9000- thats just fine for me. Consequently, if mylar protects the barrel, but raises the pressure from 9000 to 10,500- I'm fine with that too.
Essentially, I'm looking for a technical answer, not the regurgitated "yu'll petcher eye out" answer. Been down that road on so many subjects over the past year that i'm looking for actual useful data- or, barring that, firsthand experience,not internet myths...we've ( those here, not just me ) busted enough of those myths this year already.
Its not that I don't hear what you are saying, its just not an actual useful answer, and may or may not be true. I know, I know- you can't reload steel cases either. Plastic cased ammo will never work. We'll never have an airgun section on THR.
Ad Nauseum
Mylar loses mechanical integrity at about 150 dec and will melt at circa 260 deg C.
Teflon will melt at about 330 dec C.
If im reading this right- and correct me if i'm wrong, but we're talking a difference in operating temps of 70 degrees celsius - of which both materials are being exposed to somewhere in the neighborhood of 1760 degrees celsius- and no one puts their eye out either way, using either material ?
Thats a agood answer in terms of eithers' ability to protect your barrel- they would both perform sufficiently in terms of abrasion. In the temperature department, if exposed to bare burning gases, they would both melt. Im deducing from that science, as to the reason either one uses either a wad, or a gas seal, or a stack of fiber over the powder and not just this .010 piece of material.
So, onto the friction portion- thank you for your assistance !
And most importantly, does the friction of mylar on a barrel melt the mylar ? I hope not, as all that mylar sticking out the shotcup over the top thats in contact with your bore would get mighty gooey even being used appropriately as mylar is shown to be.