N-Frame Lockup Blues

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DMK

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My model 28 has an intermitten lockup problem. Occasionally the action binds up. Rotating the cylinder a little will free it up. It also spits occasionally.

Since these are intermitten problems, I plan on disassembling the action for a good detail clean before attempting to arrange any repairs. I did this on a beater K-frame once and put it back together succesfully, so I'm fairly confident I can do this.

My question is: Since I have it apart, what are the areas I should carefully inspect and pay most attention to?
 
From the description perhaps the bolt is hanging up occasionally , if then the cylinder is not locked up it would spit. Disassemble the gun completely, thoroughly clean and inspect all parts , look for obvious signs of wear. Lightly lubricate with a good gun oil reassemble and try it.
 
I'd look for a build-up of lead and/or crud on the front of the cylinder after you've cleaned it, and also make sure the hand moves freely and interfaces correctly with the star on the back of the extractor. Crud doesn't help much in any of these areas. Once everything's been thoroughly cleaned, lubricated, and reassembled, it may be worth your while to check the barrel-cylinder gap: too tight is much less frequently found than too loose, but not unknown.
 
Also check to make sure the extractor rod is not unscrewing and binding on the barrel lug. This was a common problem until S&W put left hand threads on that rod, but they still bind occasionally.

Jim
 
Usually when somebody had an intermittently binding cylinder, my first items to check were a bent ejector rod, and to look for a tiny bit of grit, brass, or burned powder under the ejector.

A bent rod can be detected by holding the gun steady, and spinning the open cylinder. If the rod appears to wobble ANY amount, this will cause the cylinder to bind.

Foreign matter caught between the ejector and it's seat in the back of the cylinder will cause intermittent bind. Clean/check both the ejector and the rear of the cylinder.

Also inspect the the ejector and the breech face on the frame for foreign matter and burrs.

Clean the joke shaft and the center hole of the cylinder.

As a diagnostic tool if you disassemble the gun:
After full disassembly of the frame, put the cylinder, ejector and yoke in place and check for binding.

If everything is Ok, reassemble the cylinder and check for bind as each part is re-installed.
If everything is still Ok, continue re-assembly of the frame, checking for bind as each part is installed.
 
After Action Report:

When I disassembled the pistol it was really cruddy inside and gummed up with some kind of grease. It was so bad that I had to resort to cleaning the frame and cylinder with Simply Green and hot water. This is something I very rarely do for fear of rust! All small parts got liberal doses of brake cleaner. After cleaning, everything was carefully dried and lubed with FP-10.

I went through a thorough inspection following Jerry Juhnhausen's "The S&W Revolver" shop manual. There was no real serious wear on anything although some polishing was needed on some of the parts as per Jerry's advice. I then reassembled using a new set of Wolff springs that I just happened to have. Gotta love S&W parts compatability.

I range tested with a couple boxes of S&B 38 special and had 100% reliability so I tried a box of Federal .357 HPs. Again the revolver worked 100%.

Feeling confident, I started plinking, firing off the rest of the S&B and then shooting up some cheap .38 CCI Blazer. Here's were the trouble started. It seems that this ammo may have been some of my problem. After some careful observation, it appears that the smooth aluminum cases were sliding back a bit during firing, jamming the cylinder. I gave the remaining two boxes away to a guy at the range and resolved to never buy any more of that! I fired off another box of Federal .357 and again it worked flawlessly.

So, perhaps it was an ammo issue all along, but I'm still glad I gave her a detail clean. The action is noticably smoother and it just gives me a warm fuzzy feeling knowing that now she's now just as clean inside as she is on the outside! :)

Thank for the help! :cool:
 
A happy ending which reinforces the lesson taught us back at the NRA armorer school at Lassen College: 90% of all firearms malfunction may be attributed to dirt (poorly maintained firearm).

Mind you, it's not your fault because most owners aren't expected to go "inside" their guns. Since the internet, the average guy can do it. :)
 
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