N-frame loose screw

Status
Not open for further replies.

JM531

Member
Joined
Sep 12, 2019
Messages
28
The ejector rod on my 629 keeps coming loose after a few shots. I get it as tight as I can with my fingers however it still loosens up some after a few shots. Any thoughts on using some sort of thread lock? Blue lock tite?

The cylinder release button screw also loosens up some over time over time.

Any suggestions?
 
I've seen where folks insert three empty cases into the cylinder and use pliers or vise-grips to tighten the extractor rod, which is reversed-threaded. Mount the cylinder in a vise if needed. Protect the surfaces from tool marring. No threadlocker is recommended.
 
I'm no gunsmith or s&w expert, if it were me, I'd put a little nail polish on the threads and see what happens. If that doesn't work . it can be removed with... Yep, nail polish remover.
 
I've used blue thread Loctite on a couple, including a 29 and 629. If your going to use it on the ejector rod, go very light. A TINY drop is all that's needed. If you get carried away, there will be trouble. :thumbup:

I'd also use it on the cylinder release screw, as well as the side plate screws. That forward most side plate screw holds the cylinder in the gun. I found that out with my first 29 when the cylinder fell to the ground during a reload.
 
Brownells used to sell a tool something like a tap wrench, for gunsmiths, that was circular with a set screw that was used as a wrench to tighten the ejector rod.

My solution has always been some blue locktite. I used the three cases and padded jaws on a channel lock method.....
 
Your issue will be solved if you tighten your ejector rod to 40 to 50 inch pounds. Mr powers the senior one recommends this practice and I prescribe to this as well.

Do not use lock tite due to the fact if the thread portion breaks you most likely will not be able to remove it. I bought a pre sw model 28 5 screw for $250 in 2015 with this problem, I was able to save the original parts by having complete access to a machine shop at a hydraulic shop I worked for.

You ejector rod will also have to be indicated, many will say that is stupid but I was stupid enough to buy the powers fixture for this task and I have not found a n or k frame that did not feel better in use or improve movements of parts after this often over looked tune up.

Mr powers the senior knows everything about building top notch revolvers.
 
The ejector rod on my 629 keeps coming loose after a few shots. I get it as tight as I can with my fingers however it still loosens up some after a few shots. Any thoughts on using some sort of thread lock? Blue lock tite?

The cylinder release button screw also loosens up some over time over time.

Any suggestions?

You will never get it tight enough with your fingers. You need a tool designed for it without destroying the rod. There are several out there and cost dollars. A drill chuck works or a vise or vise grips with the rod wrapped in leather or a tool such as this one that I use but not cheap. https://gunsmithertools.com/shop/ol...extractor-rod-tool-for-sw-revolvers-uhc74210c
I do not use any thread lock on any of my revolvers and the rods do not come loose.
 
Can't remember what it's called, but I use a small circular tool that tightens on K/L/N ejector rods without damaging them. The tool is made of steel and is knurled around it's circumference. This will get an ejector rod as tight as you want, negating any necessity for thread lockers, etc. I've had it for many years and can't recall where I got it or what it cost, but probably not very expensive.
IMG_9819.JPG
 
I have used Gun Tite which I believe is the same as blue lock tite or at least it was blue in color, on the extraction rods threads on my S&W's both model 19's and 27's to stop them from backing out and jamming up the cylinder. Just make sure you use a Loctite that's a removeable type using ordinary tools without heat.
 
Second the VibraTite; I've also used nail polish.

Tight is good, but you can strip that thread. There is a tool, but finger tight with VibraTite is sufficient.

When you need to disassemble, heat it slightly and it'll let go.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mcb
50-100 years ago it was common practice to torque threads to a fasteners yield strength to help prevent loosening in low vibration applications, with additional lock wire, lock washers, staking screws, etc for high vibration applications. Colt and Winchester used staking screws, for example. Do you have a torque wrench set up with a clamping mechanism for your cylinder ejector rod? If not, it’s pure guess work unless you’ve done it a bunch, like a gunsmith or pistol assembler has.

Use nail polish if you’re cheap, you want your wife to come to the rescue and your gun spends most of its time in the safe.

Threadlocker is used in all industries these days, for good reasons, and have come a long ways in the last 20 years. The new stuff wasn’t available to S&W armorers back in the day. I bet a bunch of revolvers out there these days have red Loctite because Walmart sells it, but it is a terrible choice as posted above.

For the cylinder rod, I suggested Loctite 222 or Permatex Purple with as tight as you can get the ejector rod with your fingers. The cylinder release button screw can get blue or purple threadlocker. I use blue because I can use a screwdriver for disassembly.

View attachment 948680
 
Last edited:
I've seen where folks insert three empty cases into the cylinder .
Whatever else you use to torque the ejector rod, this is an important step, as the empty cases prevent the locator pins on the underside of the ejector star from being bent or broken when you apply a tightening force to the ejector rod.

The drill chuck idea works well, but once clamped in place, use hand strength to tighten the rod, rather than the drill itself. The ejector rods on both my M57 and M29 loosened after almost every cylinder-full I put through them, and I tightened them enough using the chuck and hand strength alone that they have quit loosening. Thread locker is not recommended by any of the S&W trained armorers I've read.

And remember the threads are left-hand, at least on any S&W revolver made after about 1961-62.
 
IS there a torque value published for revolver ejector rods?

If that's just something taught in gunsmithing schools, then I'll go with the Loctite instead of guessing.
 
Thanks for all the feedback. I'm going to give the Vibratite a try...
 
IS there a torque value published for revolver ejector rods?

If that's just something taught in gunsmithing schools, then I'll go with the Loctite instead of guessing.

Ron powers of powers custom says 40 to 50 inch pounds and to not use thread locker of any kind.
 
Ron powers of powers custom says 40 to 50 inch pounds and to not use thread locker of any kind.
Does Ron provide an explanation of why not to use a threadlocker of any type? Vibra tite seems like a safe choice imo.
 
Does Ron provide an explanation of why not to use a threadlocker of any type? Vibra tite seems like a safe choice imo.

If you watch his YouTube demo video of the cylinder alignment tool he explains it sufficiently.

I think thread locker would only be an issue if the threaded portion ever broke off in the ejector portion of cylinder. If it never happens then you never would experience any issues securing the ejector rod on such a fashion.

If you never have drilled an broken bolt out then let me be the first to tell you it sucks its even worse being removed from a blind hole
And ever worser being a tiny bolt size.
 
I can understand that would be a major PITA, but what are the odds something like that would actually break in normal use?

The couple I used Loctite on, I havent touched since I did them, some decades ago, and they are still tight.

Not saying its "the way", but it works. :)
 
A tiny dab of nail polish or Lock Tight always worked fine for me. If it sticks just heat it with a hair dryer and it loosens right up.
 
Powers is wrong.

A bit of loc-tite or nail polish is all that is needed. Blue Loc-Tite is removeable that's why it is used and has been used for this job on revolvers for a very long time.

Remember that the ejector rod is meant to be removable for cleaning purposes.

The reason S&W went to a left hand thread on the rods was because of the way the cylinder revolves. Under normal use the old right hand thread came loose too often and so they switched. The left hand thread should remain tight.

However, the threads are often cut too shallow and/or sloppy on the rod for a secure fit. The rod bottoms out before extremely tight. This is a loose fit item and not an interference fit. In which case, no matter how much torque you put on them it will come loose. Finger tight and a bit more. If you want use some soft jaws to protect the rod from marring and a set of pliers to tighten a bit. But don't over do it. When the rod bottoms out it ain't gonna get any tighter so trying to be a young Hercules ain't gonna help.
 
You are aware all thread internal and external have "tolerance" and this no way determines the strength of a thread lock.

Please consult a machinist handbook fastener section and read about % of thread engagement and the strength that one thread in different % provides.

It's worth a read, so powers is more than right.

I understand you disagree because everyone else has done it the thread locker way and that is fine, just keep an open mine here.

Thread locker works and that is what I did before I knew better and acquired the right tool. The performance of a revolver is greatly improved.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top