Neck Reaming ? Advanced brass prep

[Blue68f100]

This may only apply to those shooting extreme distances. Fir those that are OCD on brass prep

For those who ream the inside of there rifle brass necks to smooth them up, what are you using to do this. To be done right I would think that the brass needs to be contained (neck outside) then reamed. Like using a sizing die then run a reamer through the neck while still in the die. This is the only way you can insure your eccentric/centered to the bore. But at the same time if the necks have not been turned it may only clean up the thick section. I'm assuming this is done only on new brass, though it could be done at any time.

I've turned necks all the time but have not done any reaming. Not sure there is any gain but it may be better than just turning the wall to even them up. With the proper setup it may be faster and more consistent too. Thinking of a reamer that mounts to the top of the sizing die (Bushing), that the shaft has been fitted as a pilot for the reamer. You could have the reamer inserted prior to the necks being sized, then turn. Or have the brass sized then work the reamer though the neck.

Just curious as to what others are doing.

 

[Walkalong]

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...eck-reamers/wilson-neck-reamer-prod33313.aspx

Used with their trimmer.

Use a Sinclair expander to uniform the ID and hen ream. Just enough to clean it up nice and smooth.

Forster makes a reamer to be used on their trimmer as well.

I would lightly ream, then neck turn with a K&M to match my .262 necked chamber.

 

[hdwhit]

blue68f150 wrote: "This may only apply to those shooting extreme distances. Fir those that are OCD on brass prep"

It also applies to handloaders who are forming cases.

I use an original Forster Case Trimmer with an inside neck reamer. This was the easiest and most cost effective solution to the problem of removing about 1 to 1.5-thousandth of an inch from the diameter of the neck of a formed case.

 

[cfullgraf]

I’m in the “forming cases” camp.

I have a couple Wilson reamers for .224 caliber cases. They get used on my Wilson/Sinclair trimmer.

It is not the easiest task the I do on the trimmer. I made an adapter so that I can use the crank on the reamers. I am probably trying to remove too much material at a time.

If you’d size the neck with a bushing die so that you just skimming the inside of the neck to remove the thick parts, it would probably work well. You would then have to size the neck to the final size.

If I remember correctly, the reamers are not inexpensive and sizes are few. One of my two reamers was a special order. So, it may take some fenagling to achieve the desired results.

For my case forming projects, I mostly turn the outside of the necks.

 

[Blue68f100]

I have a 0.2625" reamer. The only problem I see is the shaft size is not 0.250", its 0.247". May have to order a reamer to get a straight bore, the fractional size 1/4" gives it too much slop. Going to make a threaded part that replaces the std stem for my Redding Type S sizing die. This way I can use the FL sizing die to hold the case, while I turn the inside of necks. The bushing will prevent the brass from moving away from the cutting edge. With thin wall brass I would expect this to be a problem, if not supported.

 

[Blue68f100]

Played around in my shop this afternoon. Came up with this. Using my tap T-handle as the turning device.


Installed in the Redding FL Type S Bushing die. My mill in the background is working on cutting flutes on my 224 Valkyrie barrel. My lathe is on the other end of my shop.


I had some 308W brass that I reformed to the 6.5 CM laying on my bench so I gave it a spin. As you run the ram up it inserts the reamer before it gets to the sizing bushing. Once the ram is all the way up, you just turn the handle. I was surprised as to how much force it took till I measured the wall thickness of the brass. Was not that hard not, till I ran it up into the bushing, think brass spring back. I had to remove around 0.0005" of brass from the inside, but it came out nice. Need to make a stop collar to hold the reamer up a little higher, shaft is about 1" longer than needed. May hook up my cordless drill to make easy work of it.


I may need to make it out of some harder material than brass, if it shows wear on the shaft. If I do I will need a purchase a reamer for the 0.247" shaft, +0.0015" = 0.2485" reamer. If I do I will pickup another reamer 0.0005" smaller or larger to give me more options when it comes to cleaning up necks. The nice this about this setup is it centers the brass, then you cut (bore) the inside on center. Very little chance of it cutting off axis. With the proper bushing you could complete the brass sizing at the same time.

Any ideas on how I may improve this are welcome.

 

[Walkalong]

Very nice.