Neck Turning Equipment Choices

Status
Not open for further replies.

jfremder

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2010
Messages
115
I'm trying to squeeze thaat last little bit out of my .223 Savage. Do you have a favorite budget minded neck turning tool?
 
I use a sinclair outside neck turning tool. (Big green beastie) Works great.
That plus my Redding competition .223 Dies (neck sizing), gives me .670 CTC at 200 yards with my Savage 12 BTCSS.
 
jfrmeder,

You didn't mention your Savages model, unless it has a match type chamber, neck turning won't really do much good,you could probably "wring out" your best accuracy by finding where ( how long)the bullet likes to be seated, and the correct powder-primer choice, or maybe a better optic.

I have a 12FV, in.223, and a M77VT .308 Ruger and neck turned for both of them, a RCBS case trimmer neck turner, that the cheapest way to go if you have the case trimmer and even bought a Forster hand held . Only thing I got from either was the satisfaction that I had done every thing possible to prep my brass, weight segregation,flash hole deburr, annealing case necks etc.

The Ruger shoots full length resized better than neck size only:confused: the 12FV needed a better stock, not that the original didn't work but the replacment stock fits me better,wasn't the rifle at all.

I'm a gadget guru, picked it up from my old man the more tools I have out at one time to do a certian job the happier I am.:D



The ops question caused me to look up an article in HANDLOADER Dec. 2008 #275 by Dave Scovill, he states that the best accuracy inhancement he has experienced with most off the shelf rifles, comes from keeping bullet to case run out at a minimum, plus partial full length resizing with a full length die.
 
Last edited:
I only have experience with the Forster Hot 100

DSCN0493.jpg

I have used a friend's K & M. There are 3 things that I prefer about the Forster

  1. The Forster has a wide blade which makes for a smooth cut
    DSCN0592.jpg
  2. There is a reamer that has the same mandrel which means you can inside ream cases
    DSCN0726.jpg
    DSCN0707.jpg
  3. It is simpler and a hell of a lot cheaper


Be advised that the reamer is .003" larger than caliber size so it is made to work with tight necked chambers where you can leave .003" clearance around the neck and ream after firing.
 
The K&M can be easily adjusted to the nearest .0001. ;)

Both are good tools. Either would work for standard chambers, as well as any of the Sinclair offerings.
 
I wouldnt bother neck turning on a standard chamber. It doesnt really add anythiing to good brass. You probably would get better results switching to Lapua brass.
 
I wouldnt bother neck turning on a standard chamber. It doesnt really add anythiing to good brass. You probably would get better results switching to Lapua brass.
Thanks for that. I just fireformed 20 rounds of Lapua Match Brass, going to try some new 52gr Berger Match Bullets...anyone have a favorite load of Varget or H335?
 
Jfremder:
I neck turned a lot of Lapua 6 BR brass, and compared results out of my Savage 110 with a LW barrel. For the life of me with identical loads I found no difference. Its just another step like wieght sorting brass, which has minimal effect on groups for all but the very best BR shooters out there. And even some of the best shooters dont bother with it.
Now if you're shooting in the 1's consistently and getting a high percentage of zero's then all the esoteric brass prep might have an effect on the results. Otherwise I would just go shoot and try an improve my technique.
 
I wouldnt bother neck turning on a standard chamber. It doesnt really add anythiing to good brass. You probably would get better results switching to Lapua brass.
I agree, unless you have a tight necked chamber where you have to neck turn, ream, or both if you choose, it would be better to just buy better quality brass.
 
I use the Forster case trimmer and also the Forster neck turning tool to remove the excess brass that moves up into the case neck. It is easy to set up, if you know how to read and follow directions. The only thing to be careful of is to NOT go so far down the neck that you start to cut into the radius where the upper shoulder meets the neck! If you get it right, you can cut just into that radius and have it stop there!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top