Need a space heater for my reloading area

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If you have forced air, is there any chance your furnace or its ductwork is in or near the garage? Could be a simple solution
What he said.

A HVAC guy can probably put a furnace vent and cold air return in your garage way cheaper then an industrial strength propane or kerosene heater and fuel will cost you in the long run.

And it won't fill your house with fumes and carbon monoxide and kill you if you forget to turn it off when you go to bed.

rc
 
well, it's not meant to be a primary heat source..
Heck, a Salamander goes through twice that amount of fuel...

I've got a 100K btu propane one in the barn, with a 65k btu ceiling unit (propane).. when you first get out there, you kick on the Salamander, let it warm it up to about 70 degrees, then shut it down and turn on the ceiling unit. If it's not windy, it'll stay 65 degrees in there when it's 15 outside.
 
I would guess the OP would prefer something that will maintain a constant temp. I know I did in my garage, which is why switched from a wide open all the time kero heater to a propane unit with a thermostat.
 
And it won't fill your house with fumes and carbon monoxide and kill you if you forget to turn it off when you go to bed.

Ain't gonna happen with a heater using the proper wick and adjusted as per the instructions.

I've used an Aladdin Temp-Rite 15 for over 30 years now, I replace the wick every other year. I use K-1 kerosene undyed available here at most gas stations with its own pump. Can also purchase K-1 Kerosene from the bulk deliverly truck if purchasing 50 gallons or more at one time. Todays cost is $4.09 per gal., its cheaper if I buy it from the bulk truck tho. One gal in my heater lasts a little over 12 hours.

As far as "forgetting" I have no more worry about doing that than "forgetting" to keep the muzzle pointed down range, or "forgetting" to check my powder measure for the correct charge.

Just for the record, I'm also able to purchase "white gas" AKA "Naptha" at the pump also, pumped 5 gallons 2 days ago for $4.79 a gallon.

My CO tester also gets a new battery every year, and is tested by our local Fire Dept.
 
I also have the heaters out of my Grandmothers house that ran off of NG. Converted one of the thermostat controlled one to LP (just a jet and pressure regulator.

Carbon dixoide detectors didn't exist back then and 3 dearborn NG heaters and the one below didn't kill anyone in the family of 6.

I use wood because its free except for gas for the chainsaw and splitter. Wood also heats twice, once when you get it ready to burn and again when you burn it.
 

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Vent-free heaters are available, in both propane and natural gas. I used one in my garage before I put in a Modine Hot Dawg with B vent piping to the outside.

The vent-free worked very well, the model I have has an optional fan which I bought and installed. It kept a 2 car garage positively toasty while I insulated the garage and built my reloading bench.

The Modine is much nicer, and it fits 1/2" from the ceiling so it's out of the way. The one drawback for the vent-free heaters is they do add some moisture to the air in the garage.

But in Chicago area winters, they do the job.
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This is the way to go! I'd get one with the thermostatically-controlled fan, also. My brother heats his house with propane heaters like that, and he's still kicking. If the OP needs a placebo, I'd suggest a $30 carbon monoxide detector. All those heaters have low oxygen sensors, and they'll turn off, if the oxygen level gets too low. Check this one out, as well as the others on the same page:

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-Pro...30449&sr=8-4&keywords=ventless+propane+heater
 
Years ago, I got my old house that was in the same family since 41. they converted the small attached garage to an office/half bath/ laundry room, heated by a wood stove. Blew in some insulation, sold the wood stove, upgraded the panel, hooked up some dedicated line baseboard electric heat, voila comfortable man cave.
 
If you can swing it the direct vent Propane or Nat gas heaters that Rinnai make are good ones for a garage. They take combustion air from outside and also vent outside through a single vent pipe. They have a heat circulation fan and modulate the burner for max efficiency. Model RHFE-1004FTA gives 38,400 BTU's and that will heat the typical semi insulated garage in Maine with ease. Having the venting outside means no carbon monoxide or excessive moisture to deal with either. There are smaller models available for you if the area is smaller that you want to heat. There are a bunch of similar brands out there available from the big box stores but the company I work for installs these and they seem the most trouble free and long lasting of all the options out there IMHO. I have an older propane model of the 1004 in my family room addition and it works really well (3 100 LB tanks of propane for a well insulated 20X20 room each winter) as long as the power stays on to the house.:)
 
As has been touched upon, how you dress makes a huge difference. A man's gotta be comfortable to enjoy himself. And transfering that trickled powder charge from the scale to the case (I don't do that) while you are violently shivering is not real smart.
Dress for a normal day, perhaps even a house day plus a good sweater and pay good attention to your feet. Then, with boots and all on, slip into an insulated coverall with elastic type wrist cuffs (helps to not catch on things and keeps in heat). Hat optional.

If needed, a $15 ceramic cube type heater positioned strategically under your loading stool should help allay shivered timbers.
 
I have a fairly large detached man cave. First winter, I used a Kerosene Heater. Second Winter, I insulated the ceiling and the Garage door that was installed. This summer I included insulation for the walls, finished the walls, finished the ceiling, and a total remodel.

Went from frigid, to chilly, to sweaty :)
 
I have 35 years of Heating and air conditioning back round. I don't like unvented fuel burning appliances for heating applications. Even if they are rated as non-vented they can / will deplete oxygen levels and raise the CO2 level. They can also leave too much moisture in the area and increase the changes of condensation or mold. For small areas with limited use I would just use a small electric heater.
If you do go with a fuel burning unit make sure it's vented and bring in the correct volume of combustion air.
 
I use a 220 volt electric heater that hangs from the ceiling. It heats my shop and has a decent thermostat. I keep the shop at 45 degrees and turn it up when I am out there. My shop is about 12x24x9 ft ceiling with only modest insulation. No fuel to haul, fumes, or problems with complicated installation. It uses 21 amps at 220 volts and costs on average about 40 bucks per month to operate in cold months.
 
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