Need bedding advice

[texas chase]

I have a Weatherby Vanguard in .270 WSM that was given to me as a gift and I planning on using as a hunting rifle - whitetail, feral hogs, etc.

I want to bed the action but I've never done it. I've done some reading/research, etc. but I'm unclear as to some of the how's and why's of what I'm doing. For instance, why do you tape the bottom and forward surface of the recoil lug?

I've done some searches on thehighroad but suprisingly didn't find much. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

 

[WNTFW]

You tape the lug to give a bit of clearance. Even after taping it will fit tight in the finished bedding. The real big issue is if the lug has a taper. I have seen some claims that the lug can lock if it is thicker or wider at the bottom than the top near the barrel.

The Vanguard's warranty may be affected. I think they specify do no alter bedding or rebed. If you are OK with that go for it.

6mmBR.com has some good bedding info.
http://www.6mmbr.com/pillarbedding.html

There ars some videos on you tube. While not exactly by pros they give an idea.

How does it shoot right now? Do yourself a favor and get a baseline of the rifles performance. I have a Vanguard in .270 and I would not be surprised if your is a great shooting rifle. Handloads would probably be a place to gain something ballistics wise.


Wood or synthetic stock?

 

[DIM]

just get another stock with aluminum bedding block you won't regret it, either B&C or HS Hogue is another one...

 

[texas chase]

Its a wooden stock FYI but I also have a synthetic.

 

[WNTFW]

Mine is wood also. I have bedded both wood and synthetic stocks.

After reading reports bedding not sticking to synthetic stocks I took all the precautions and have not had any adhesion problems. Bulldog adhesion promoter and generous undercutting was what I used. I also test the bedding on the plastic to see if it will stick.

If you want to do the bedding your self start figuring what materials to use and come up with a game plan. You will want to protect anything you don't want epoxy on. Figure out how to hold the rifle undisturbed for 24-72 hours of curing. Do as much dry fitting and look for mechanical locks.

Materials: I've used Devcon and Marine Tex - the grey. The white is a different formula. The marine tex is probably easier and more readily available. It is about the same price but you can buy less of it at a time. ITG owns both companies.

Release agent: I've used neutral shoe polish.

For blocking off areas: Plumbers putty works well.

Clamping: Electical tape works. I have also used a C clamp but that was on a special case where I figure it would not induce stress into the bed job.

For undercutting the stock use what you have that will work safely. I used a keyhole cutter, carbide bur, wire cutters, chisels. Don't get impatient. Play it safe. I have stopped and thought how can this hurt me before doing things. No blood loss yet.

For a rifle holder you can cut slots in a cardboard box or cut a wood holder. Tape off the entire stock or else it will get bedding on the exposed area.

It is intimidating and I can see why pros charge what they do for bedding rifles. It is doable if you are willing to do the work and deal with some stress.

 

[natman]

I have a Weatherby Vanguard in .270 WSM that was given to me as a gift and I planning on using as a hunting rifle - whitetail, feral hogs, etc.

I want to bed the action but I've never done it. I've done some reading/research, etc. but I'm unclear as to some of the how's and why's of what I'm doing. For instance, why do you tape the bottom and forward surface of the recoil lug?

I've done some searches on thehighroad but suprisingly didn't find much. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

You mask off the front to give enough clearance so you can remove the action. You mask off the bottom to make sure the action rests on the bottom of the action, not teeter-tottering on the bottom of the lug.

I recommend Johnson's Paste Wax or Kiwi neutral shoe polish for a release agent. I use Acraglas GEL for bedding.

 

[texas chase]

"You mask off the front to give enough clearance so you can remove the action. You mask off the bottom to make sure the action rests on the bottom of the action, not teeter-tottering on the bottom of the lug."

That explains it very well. Thanks!

Now, does anybody have any pic's of filling voids with clay, taping up, etc.?

 

[rmfnla]

Its a wooden stock FYI but I also have a synthetic.

???

If you have a synthetic stock why bother with the glass bedding?

 

[natman]

Because even synthetic stocks don't fit the action perfectly.

 

[Maj Dad]

Brownell's AcraGlas

You can't go wrong with Brownell's AcraGlas and AcraGlas II. I use them both on wood and synthetic (GI M14 fiberglass specifically - also filled in the connector cut out) with superb results. The kit has excellent directions, and you can also call them and one of the guys will walk you through the process in easy to understand terms. The AcraGlas is a honey-like liquid that seeks its level, and AG II is like putty or thick butter that stays when you put it. Both have their uses, and while I am sure there are other materials as good, I haven't found anything better or easier. The kits contain release agent, black & brown dye and mixing sticks & cups, and the only thing you need in addition is tape (I use Brownell's 10 micron, I believe it is, but any thin masking type will do) and maybe modelling clay to fill large voids. The instructions cover it all, so if you're thinking of trying it and want to start easy, AcraGlas is tops.

My 2 cents based on my experience...