Need help finding my first rifle. Possibly a .308

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.308/7.62x51 is the same ammo from a bolt action point of view.

The difference is that .308 hunting/commercial ammo comes in a variety of bullet weights and velocities, while NATO spec is all 150 grain at a specific velocity. So, commercial ammo may or may not be reliable in a military auto or semi-auto because of the different pressures, bullet weights, recoil impulses, etc. You might bend an op-rod or something shooting a hot 180 grain commercial load in a military rifle.

The reverse is not true with a bolt action rifle. It should feed anything out there.

However, the most popular hunting loads are also 150 grain and so practicing with NATO spec ammo usually doesn't require re-zeroing for your hunting loads. If you want to hunt with say, a 165 grain load you may have to adjust a few clicks after zeroing with 150 grain NATO loads.
 
I think I'd just use the Nato for practice assuming they were cheaper. I'd probably hunt with a .308 because the rifle is a .308, would just seem to make more sense. Maybe maybe not?
 
From my findings it seems the 7.62 Nato is slightlly cheaper then the 30-06 and .308.
I used the 7.62 Nato in my M240B overseas, and I could hit a target at 300 meters in half the Army standard 8-10 round burst. So I'm pretty comfortable with it.

I found a comparision between the Tikka T3 and the Weatherby, and I think I might end up with the Tikka. Stay tuned
 
SKS will do what you want for less $$, but that depends on your budget. How often do you want to plink?

Let's not forget the good old Mosin Nagant. Harder to scope & keep irons, but cheaper to buy and shoot.
 
How do you know what brands are good or not? There are names I recognize when I go on sites like Luckygunner and ableammo, then there are cheaper brands I've never heard of. If I was going to buy ammo for a hunt, I'd go with something people like, but if I'm going target shooting, I don't really care all that much, yet I don't want to buy some junk made in some guys basement that's going to ruin my rifle. Thoughts?

I think I'm going to be sticking with my original plan with the .308, and I'm thinking the Tikka T3 is the way to go for me. I went to a few shops and wrapped my fingers around them, I absolutely love the way the bolt slides, the feel is comfortable.. I know some people don't like the plastic trigger guard, but you shouldn't have your finger on the trigger until your ready to shoot, so I don't see why this would ever be a problem unless you're using it as a baseball bat..
 
Zapawaf said:
How do you know what brands are good or not? There are names I recognize when I go on sites like Luckygunner and ableammo, then there are cheaper brands I've never heard of. If I was going to buy ammo for a hunt, I'd go with something people like, but if I'm going target shooting, I don't really care all that much, yet I don't want to buy some junk made in some guys basement that's going to ruin my rifle. Thoughts?
Click to expand...


There are really only a couple types of ammo available out there for .308.

A) American
B) Surplus German Ammo
C) Russian/Eastern European
D) Surplus Egyptian/African ammo
E) 'Ol Bubba's "special" handloads


For a nice bolt action like the Tikka, American is the only way to go for hunting, but German surplus is excellent plinking ammo.

I wouldn't go shooting Russian ammo through a bolt action; It's a bit underpowered and extremely dirty and some rifles have a hard time setting off the tough primer.

Stay as far away from the Egyptian stuff as possible. I have only ever heard nightmare stuff about it.

It's never safe to shoot someone else's handloads. If however a lot of ammo is being sold online, they have to have an ammo manufacturer's license so I would say that would be pretty safe. There's a company named Ultramax that sells "remanufactured" ammo for usually a very decent price. My brother uses it a lot and it is actually very accurate for the money.

Hope this helps a bit!
 
There are tons of used Remington 700's available and with iron sights.
I prefer the .308 because I prefer a short action rifle especially if it's a carbine length rifle.
 
Surplus 7.62 ammo comes in waves as countries dump ammo. Any NATO stuff is good. You'll see Greek, Portuguese, German, whatever, all over the place for a short time and you need to snap it up when you see it because it goes fast.

There is a difference between military ammo and cheap Eastern Europe ammo. I'll shoot either in my FAL, but the Military ammo is cleaner and more accurate.
 
So I went to a place called Shoot Straight, which is about an hour and 10 from my house. Got there, didn't realize the Tikka didn't come with a scope, so we talked about scopes for a while. The cheapest with the adjustment marks for bullet drop (Does this have an actualy name?) was $250, and they were little circles which didn't impress me.

I don't know if anyone is familiar with the AN/PAS 13. They're thermals used by the Military. I couldn't find a picture of the retical but this one here is kind of similiar

NCSTAR-STR432G-16.jpg


Something like this would be even better I'd imagine
mypic38.jpg

But I really don't want to spend hundreds on a scope. I'm willing to drop 1-200 if I have to but I can't see buying a $500 scope for a $560 rifle.

Also if it would be possible I'd like it to have a close range of 1. Around here there is hog hunting, and we've never gone before, but we're told they're aggressive and I'd like to be able to use it up close if I had to. better safe then sorry right?
 
Very interesting and useful information here, since I had almost the exact same question. I have found a Savage Axis in .270 that comes with a 3-9x40 scope already boresighted, so I may pick that one -- or the .308 model. I still like the versatility of both calibers. Maybe I'll get both and let my grown son use one. We're still waiting for the feral hogs to get from Texas to Colorado.
 
Limit your shooting to 300 yards, and you won't need to compensate for bullet drop. If you can't get within 300 yards of an animal, you probably shouldn't take up hunting anyway. If you're planning mountain goat or pronghorn hunting, then my advice doesn't apply.

The reason I think that's important is that for every deer you see at 450 yards, you'll have a dozen right in your face. With a high powered variable you are essentially blind at close range. If you do see a deer at long range, you can stalk closer. If you jump a deer in the brush and can't see him in your scope, he's just gone.

That's why I like a low powered variable in the 1x5 range.
 
I’m intrigued by the Ruger Gunsite Scout myself but curious as to muzzle blast with a 16.5” barrel. Is it excessive, a nuisance or not a big deal?
 
Kodiak I totally agree with you.
This is why I definitely want something useful up close like 1x?
At the same time, if I'm going to end up spending 100+ on a scope I might as well be able to have the option to shoot farther, even if it's just for fun. 300m target shooting is a lot of fun, and gratifying if when you actually hit it.
 
Zapawaf said:

I'm a Military guy and my thought process is always, if the optics fail you have a backup.
Click to expand...

I was never military, but I agree completely. I would suggest a Winchester M70, and have sights added by a competent gunsmith. Let us know what you purchase, and why that particular rifle make/model.

Geno
 
A 1x5 variable will allow you to shoot at 300 yards with no problem at all. I keep mine at 1x until I see something at long range, then I'll dial up to 5x and take the shot.

The 300 yards rule is because with most standard hunting calibers, you can zero at 200 yards (or 2" high at 100 yards) and shoot from in your face to 300 yards without worrying much about holdover. You might hold higher on the chest at 300 yards, but you're still holding "on hair".

optics_1.png
 
you need to look at what type of distances you will be shooting. some guys say 308, 06 ect and the 30-30. if you are going out west to hunt I would not even consider taking a 30-30 out there. not saying that the round is not a good round but you may be hard pressed to get close enough for a shot with the 30-30. Personally I would go with the Tikka T3 in a 30-06 you can reach out an touch something in ''Big Sky County" and in FL you may have long shots not sure about NH. I am not bashing the 30-30 by no means but the distance for me is just not what I would choose
 
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