Need help Pietta 1868 Remington

[oneiron]

I received my Pietta 1868 Remington today and I tried to take the trigger guard screw out and it will not give. I have damaged the screw, and will need a new one. Any Ideas on how to get the screw out. I have put penetration oil and heat on the screw. I used a heat gun not a torch. I talked to Cabela's and they tood me that Pietta put lock tight on the screws. If so that is the only screw on this gun that they put it on. They said you don't take the gun down to clean.

 

[Tommygunn]

Pietta put lock tight on the screws. If so that is the only screw on this gun that they put it on. They said you don't take the gun down to clean.

Screws can be awfully tight when from the factory. I think grease or preservative gets in them and dries and acts almost as a glue ... either that or they use gorillas to assemble them
You may not need to take the gun apart every cleaning, but eventually you will to clean or to replace the trigger/bolt spring.
I don't think locktite is used.
As to get it out ... ? You need a gunsmith's screwdriver, one with a squared off end not a end shaped like a wedge when viewed from the side, and the same width as the screw.
I don't know what to do about the buggered screw. I have a Uberti Remmie in .36 cal with a buggered hammer screw I have never been able to do anything with.

 

[Perk]

Would it not be possible to drill, and tap/remove the screw, using an "Easy Out?" Granted, pistol grips use some of the smaller-sized screws. However, those removers are tough, little, buggers.

Have had great success, in using them to remove many different types of screws. One tip, is to apply a drop of penetrating oil to the offending fastener, then allow it to sit, overnight. This accomplishes two things:

1) The lubricant will travel into the area, between the threaded portions involved.

2) It allows time to relearn patience. Which, is how I've managed to mess up a couple of screws, myself, in the first place.

Imagine the oil would darken the wood, around the area of a fastener...

For loosening future stubborn fasteners, 'D recommend using a mallet-powered impact driver, with the absolutely correct size of bit. Have been using such, since the early days, with my '68 Chevelle. Thus far, I've always won.

Perhaps, worth the trip to the hardware store.

 

[Im283]

I have a Pietta Remington '58 and when I first went to take it down I could not get the cylinder bolt spring screw out. I fussed with it for a while, noogering it up in the process. Luckily I did not mess it up beyond use. When I finally came to my senses and gave the penetrating oil time to work it came out. The final trick was to put the screw driver into the slot of the screw then take a mallet and firmly rap the screwdriver handle one time to set the blade into the slot. I used extreme slow pressure, but very firm pressure on it. It came loose. The mallet trick along with giving oil a chance to work its way in is what did it.

No other screw was set in like that one. I agree that it probably is due to lube drying up like glue.

Don't give up on it, but take your time. Go and shoot it. When I finally got mine broke down I pretty much realized it was not very dirty in there after more than 70rounds.

 

[mykeal]

Call Cabela's back and ask them if they'd care to repeat that falsehood about Pietta using Loctite and not tearing down the gun to clean it. If they won't, and I'm betting they won't, send the gun back to them for repair/replacement. This is crap.

Now, as to the screw, should you decide to accept their unsatisfactory advice, it can be drilled out with care if the penetrants fail to work. It's unlikely, however, that corrosion is the problem so I'm not hopeful that the penetrants will work. It's probably been overtorqued by a machine tool. One thing's for sure: there is no Loctite on that or any other screw on that gun.

 

[oldelm]

I've never had a frozen screw I couldn't get loose with Kroil...
it really works great!

http://www.kanolabs.com/

 

[Pancho]

Oneiron, If the screw is so boggered up that you must drill it out, go to a good hardware store and have them order you a couple of reverse drill bits. They are machined to cut in the counterclockwise direction. I've got a couple of different sizes that I use just for drilling out screws. The cool thing is that often the screw will back out as I'm drilling it out.

 

[sundance44s]

I had the same problem with the trigger guard screw and the trigger / bolt spring screw...it was just a matter of useing a good gunsmith screw driver to get them out ...I buggered a few before I broke down and payed the bucks for good screwdrivers ..2 dollar screws that cost 8 bucks to ship ...

 

[oneiron]

The screw is messed up, but with the proper screwdriver it may come out. I still want to replace that screw. Does any one know specification of that screw. It seems to be about 3/8" long and 1/16 dia, but does it have 6/48 thread?
Another question: what is the proper size screwdriver for that screw? I know it has to have parallel sides, but what is the width of the blade to fit the screw. I don't know which size to order. Thanks for all the suggestions. I would send it back, but the thing shoots to the point of aim, works and looks good.

 

[sundance44s]

Something that might help ..hold it under some real hot water for a min .(Kitchen sink ) it might take 3 hands but if you can hold a screw driver in the screw slot and take a hammer and tap down a few times on the handle end of the screwdriver this will help to loosen it . I use a set of Forsters screwdrivers ..they are numbered I use the #2 screwdriver in the set for both screws ...they have good hardened tips . VTI gun parts sells the screws ..in fact on some of the screws if you call them they have some harder screws for these guns than the stock ones . I`m not sure what size these little screws are but they are metric .

 

[Bad Flynch]

Well, it may very well be that Pietta uses something as a thread sealer: it could be Loc-Tite; it could be nail polish; it could be lube that varnishes as has been suggested. It really does not matter, because the net result is the same.

I really would try several days or a week of something like SiliKroil: That stuff will crawl anywhere--so much so that it can be a nuisance.

To break the bond on Loc-Tite, one needs to heat the parts really hot. I think that the last time I looked it up, one needed to get the parts to 350 degrees or so (better look it up). That means you probably underheated the gun the first time.

Yes, you will eventually need to completely disassemble the revolver for cleaning. However, one can put this off a long time by using something like Ballistol Milk and spraying it generously in the action area. That tactic works for me.

 

[oneiron]

Thanks guys I knew I was not going to have to reinvent the wheel. It is soaking now and will leave it over night. I have a heat gun that goes to 1100deg. the screw driver I am going to have to order.

 

[oneiron]

Success. Thank all you for your suggestions and advice.