Discussion in 'Blackpowder' started by sean m, Mar 10, 2021.
If you are using penetrating fluid, and Kroil is very good, try applying it not only to the head of the screw but to the threads as well. If I recall correctly, that threaded hole is a through hole and you should be able to apply the Kroil to the threads by dripping it into the through hole. Apply it under the screw head too. Let it sit at least 24 hours. If you cannot get it loose like that just about your only other option is to drill out the screw, without damaging the threads in the hole, and pick out the pieces.
Stupid question: Why were you trying to remove the screw? Generally speaking, the only reason to remove that screw is if the spring breaks and you need to replace it.
If you get the screw out call the good folks at VTI Gunparts and order a new one.
Next on your shopping list, order some decent hollow ground screw drivers so you don't bugger up any more screw slots.
The good news is that screw is very short, so you won't have to turn it many times before it falls out.
If you don't already have a replacement, order one or two. You don't want to keep that buggered screw.
edit: DJ beat me to the draw. Again.
This buggered clean out screw came out by boiling the part in water and just bearing down hard on a bit screwdriver.
Use gloves to handle the hot metal, and keep trying...carefully.
The screw wasn't rusted in place.
Maybe tap the screwdriver with a hammer a few times.
Do it for days if necessary, until you decide to give up and take it to a shop.
Plus the vibration/impact will likely help loosen things up as well.
Thanks. I just signed up for the card and the driver set cost a little over $14 with the $50 discount. I buy very little from Amazon.
I bought the revolver used about 2 years ago from a pawn shop and it's been sitting in the safe since then. I gave it an initial cleaning at the time and everything was functional.
I pulled it out the other day and found the surface rust with the cylinder locked. I soaked the revolver in kerosene for several days without the grips and it was still seized.
So I disassembled it so I could drive the axis pin out from the hammer cutout. I then found the trigger spring screw had already been played with before I opened it up.
Thanks for the link, just ordered. Haven't been able to find my old set since the fiancee rearranged the house last year. :0
Used to have to use it's bigger cousin back in the later 70's on the beater cars I used to drive, the good old day's!
Ended up being able to get it moving with a bit of tapping with a center punch. Ordered the replacement screw, and some other parts (JIC) from Numrich.
Thanks for the suggestions.
Be sure to put some anti-seize or other lube on the threads.
While properly fitting, hollow ground screwdrivers are important, unfortunately the Italian gun makers like to (a) over torque their screws, and (b) make them from steel that is about as hard as cheese. (I'M LOOKING AT YOU UBERTI!!!!)
That's caused me to do this a couple of times to $1200+ rifles.
Do not attempt this without a drill press, or as in my case, a milling machine.
have to .... but they can be had.
would you please describe your process?
Here's just one way
While you're waiting for a reply, check out this video showing one way that color case hardening is done using bone and charcoal. --->>> https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/video-color-case-hardening.875563/
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