Need Opinions on buying both reliable and easy to take-down & reassemble 1911!

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Dog Wonder

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Hello:

Need some advice in buying a 1911! I am willing to spend $1200 on a single stack,single action 1911(45 caliber that has a barrel no longer than 41/4 inches)! I would like this 1911 to be fairly easy to disassemble & reassemble!
And with proper cleaning & maintenance be reliable with the least amount
of stovepiping! I am from the old school of training and believe in some form of metal frame 1911! I am not saying that Glock 30 or Springfield XD aren't good guns it's that I am more comfortable in shooting metal frame 1911's!

Many thank-you's for your replies!
 
And with proper cleaning & maintenance be reliable with the least amount
of stovepiping!

You seem to be misinformed about 1911's in general. They all pretty much take down the same way other than bushing verses non bushing. And FLGR verses GI style.
I've also never had the impression they are prone to "stove pipe". :what:
I don't have any commander size 1911's, so I won't suggest any.
 
I'm sure others will chime in as well. Inherently, if you're specifically going for the 1911, then they all should be very similar in disassembly for cleaning, etc. The main concerns would be your use of the firearm and of course, your budget. The best gun for you isn't always the most expensive. Figure on about how much you are willing to spend, check out Gunbroker.com and see what various models are going for (there is a search button to narrow the results) and check out what folks are saying on as many forums as possible. Look for the bell curve in the reviews. ANY manufacturer can turn out a dud once in a while. Watch how well they correct the problem and work with their customers.

sometimes, even if someone takes a "No cost spared" approach, the thing they should have spent more on is research.

Good luck with your search!
 
To clarify my understanding on the disassemble & reassemble of all 1911's is not the same-- Kimber uses a wire rod to disassemble and reassemble!

as far as price my dollar limit in buying a 1911 is $1220!
 
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You are talking about guns with full length or two piece guide rods.

The original 1911 design used a recoil spring plug in front, and a recoil spring guide in the rear.

All you have to do is look at the front end of any 1911 to tell if it has a GI type recoil spring plug or a solid guide rod sticking out of the barrel bushing..

rc
 
Simple: 70 series, standard plug.

more complicated but not bad: 80 series, one- or two-piece FLGR.

Unless you're talking about FIELD STRIPPING rather than complete disassembly, in which case the 70 and 80 series are the same in complexity.
 
R1 is not 4 1/4" LD. And I'll give another plug for the Colt XSE Commander. Lightweight if you want to carry it.
 
X2 on the Colt 1991. The only thing that you may not like is the S80 firing pin safety... but frankly it's not hard to take down, and it only takes an extra minute or so when you perform a detail strip to clean the fire control parts... it doesn't affect anything when you're just field stripping it to clean.

FWIW here is a really good review, one of which is what swayed me to buy my own:

http://ezine.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=81

It comes in way under your $1200 price point... it leaves some money to buy some grips or an arched MSH or whatever your preferences may be. Also you could eliminate the firing pin safety if you're inclined to do so.... though if you'll be carrying it, it is probably best to leave it as is. Frankly, I bought it with intentions of carrying and -wanted- the firing pin safety.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=283926

My 1991 Commander has been 100% reliable so far(450 rounds, everything from 165gr hollowpoints to 230gr hollowpoints and FMJ and cheap reman range ammo), is more accurate than me(not saying much considering it's my fire pistol), and had all the stuff I knew I wanted, and none of the stuff I knew I didn't want.

After a bit of range time, I've found the grips to be a bit rough and dig into my hand, I changed the rear sight for a plain black serrated sight from 10-8 performance, and I think I'm going to be getting an arched MSH and a medium length trigger to better fit my hand. Your preferences may vary.
 
To clarify my understanding on the disassemble & reassemble of all 1911's is not the same-- Kimber uses a wire rod to disassemble and reassemble!
Not mine.

The first time I changed the recoil spring on my 4" Kimber, was the last time it had a FLGR in it. I don't know if I cut the factory part down GI length, or if I swapped it out for a GI guide rod (I've done both).

I simply take the slide off, and slide the recoil spring out from the rear. Due to the long guide rod in the short pistol, it stays somewhat captive. The only downside is the fact that the open spring plug looks weird.

Note: The pic is an attachment in an old thread. You may have to be logged in to see it.
attachment.php
 
Zach S-- thank you for your post-it clearly shows another way to disassemble your 1911!
You can find on you tube that many people are using this wire like tool to disassemble their Kimber 1911! If truth be told I like your method better.
Here's just one video (of many) using this wire like tool

Semper Fi Till The Day I Die!


Video-http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3s4Q4AVO2Q
 
You can find on you tube that many people are using this wire like tool to disassemble their Kimber 1911!
Yeah, I thought that was real handy, until I changed the recoil spring on mine.

It ain't exactly easy to push the spring plug down and hold it while putting the bent paperclip back in. The spring plug went flying a few times before I thought about trying a short guide rod.
 
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