Need positive advice on loading steel cases

[donttellthewife]

With the price increases of loaded ammo going up and up I tried to find ways of still being able to go shooting as much possible for the least amount of money. I have figured out a berdan reloading process for the same cost as boxer that doesn't take much longer. Now that I've done that I am going to load steel cases namely 7.62x39 for my ak and sks has anybody else done steel cases, if so what advise do you have.

Did you tumble them the same
lube them same
after completeing a round do you coat it with anything for corrosion control
what type of dies do you use and how do they hold up
Thanks

 

[Walkalong]

Personally, I would not reload steel cases. Now I know a certain intrepid soul on THR does, but it's not me. In general, steel cases are considered non reloadable for good reason. It is not ductile like brass, which is how brass seals the chamber. It can expand, seal the chamber, bounce back enough to be ejected, can be sized and do it all again for a number of times before becoming work hardened. Once fired brass is still cheap enough. It's the bullets that eat us up.

 

[jr81452]

depends on the manufacturer. i load wolf steel cases at 10% below max and they last 10 firings for pistol and 7 for rifle. i like the polimer coated cases over the laqure *sp as with the later you must get all of it off before you try to reload them or it will scrap off and crud up your dies. lube rifle cases as normal for sizing and a carbide sizing die would be a good idea if you want your die to last. size pistol cases through carbide as normal. for corrosion control i spray compleated rounds with hornaday one shot and if i am storing them for more than a few months i vacume seal them as i live in florida and steel rusts fasts here. you can use one of those home sealers from sears and they only cost about $40 and i have about 1000 cases i loaded three years ago and sealed that still have no rust and they have been in the garage the whole time.

good luck

 

[bakert]

Like Walkalong says I've seen posts by people that do. To each his own but not me. Got to be hard on dies and I would rather buy new or if I could find it, decent used brass. Don't know if there's a safety or other issues involved and aint gonna find out the hard way.

 

[Canuck-IL]

Need positive advice on loading steel cases

I'm positive it's not a good idea.
/B

 

[donttellthewife]

There is so many 7.62x39 steel cases at the range I dont think I'll ever need to load a case more than twice. Sounds like the polymer coated cases are the way to go.
The pricing works out something close to this

cases free----.00
powder-------.06
primer--------.02
projectile-----.07
total---------.15 per round

imported russia ammo .25 to .30
domestic ammo .35 to .40

3000 rounds a year min.
reloaded $450
russian $750-$900
domestic $1050-$1200

With these kind of savings I could afford a new rifle or dies and still save money or shoot more. Does anyone have any documented info on damaged caused by reloaded steel cases. Not trying to be a smart a$$ but would really like to know

I thought they were considered non reloadable because of the berdan primers, just like all that non reloadable brass I reloaded

Walkalong, who do you purchase your brass from and how much per 1000. Thank you.

bakert, "or if I could find it, decent used brass" that's the problem I've run into. Thank you.

Canuck-IL, good one lol. Thank you.

jr81452, real experiance. Thank you

 

[Walkalong]

Walkalong, who do you purchase your brass from and how much per 1000. Thank you.

The last .45 I bought was 55 per 1000, I bought 2000. It is still stashed away. It lasts a long long time. Naturally, rifle cases do not last as long, but I still won't load steel.

Moch me all you want and tell me how much money you are saving all you want. I reccommend to ALL THR VIEWERS, Don't reload steel. Now there, I can sleep easy tonight and if someone blows themselves up it will not be on my conscience.


How much are your eyes, hands, and life worth to you. Saving a few dollars over time is not as important to me as those things. Unnecessay chances are just dumb. Don't take unnecassry risks. ..........My 2 cents.

May your luck hold out indefinitly my friend.

I now give you the last word.

 

[donttellthewife]

Walkalong, I am sorry, I should have been more specific I am talking about the 7.62x39 rifle round and or cases. I wouldn't do steel cases for handgun loads because I have tons brass ones already. Being a range rat means you have to find a place to store what you drag home.

I am sure you are knowledgeable about which you speak but if you could refer me to any authoritative publications on this subject I would be forever greatful. I am betting someone has used a scientific method to find out the safety or danger issues of this.

It's not all just about cost, safety has a large part to play as well, as any reloader knows, I do value my health and well being, and others for that matter

Rest easy and sleep well, I don't think anyone will be unclear as to your position

I won't hold you to that last word thing

 

[donttellthewife]

First bench report on steel cases
(Wolf polymer coated cases)
Tumbled in walnut media and Nu Finish for 1/2 hour
Decapped with RCBS berdan decapper ( easiest bedan primers I've ever met, no military crimp)
Lubed with home made dillon look alike lube ( lanolin and alcohol )
Sized with non carbide RCBS die ( easy no extra force needed )
Bullet seating and crimping need to be done seperatly, necks crush way to easy very soft metal
Seated and crimped 10 projectiles into empty cases to see how the necks would hold up doing the two operations seperatly. Everything good no split necks no crushing issues.
Pulled all 10 projectiles with a collet puller to see how well projectile is held by rolled crimp. Held very tight this is the most force I've used thus far in any operation.
inspected cases again found nothing wrong.

Have case gage on order from dillon.
Won't have much time this week to experiment
and well be out of state all next week. well report back in two to three weeks how things go

 

[fatelk]

Just curious; what do you do about the primers? Years ago when I had more time than money I messed around with trying to reload berdan steel cases. I figured I could use the hydraulic method for decapping, then remove the anvil from boxer primers and use them. I found that the diameter of the boxer primers was slightly smaller and they just fell out.

If one is careful enough and figures out the primer thing I don't see why it wouldn't work, but around here you see cases of 1000 7.62x39 for $160 or so at the gun shows. For myself it doesn't seem worth the time, but I definitely won't knock someone who wants to experiment and try to make something work. Just be careful and don't blow yourself up.

 

[donttellthewife]

fatelk,
I picked up 5000 berdan large rifle primers last year form a guy on AutionArms for $92.00 shipped he's up to $105 without shipping now. They are .217 in dia. and fit perfect in berdan 7.62x51 (308), 7.5x55 swiss, 8mm mauser, and the wolf 7.62x39 I am sure there are others. I did have to make my own primer tube and alter the primer cup that holds the primer right before it gets seated to the case on a old jr RCBS press, now it goes like clock work. Even I wouldn't try to turn a berdan case into a boxer case, "you gots to know your limitations"