Need tips for refinishing a stock.

[chrissmallwood]

Hi all. I have a Springfield 87A that I picked up a few weeks ago and I decided to refinish the stock on it. This is the first time Ive refinished a whole stock before so Im trying to go slow with it. Ive already sanded the stock and Ive started staining it and my next step is to go over it with some steel wool once it dries but the question I have is how do I use the steel wool correctly? What exactly is the purpose of the steel wool and how much should I sand off with it? Ive tried looking on the web for it but alot of the stuff I find seems to be for those more educated in this subject and not for beginners. If anybody has some tips or suggestions please tell me, any help would be greatly appreciated. Pictures of the proper processes would be great aswell.

 

[hardhit777]

It is to buff the finish between coats. You put a coat on ,buff some off and repeat. it makes the whole thing look loads better.

I have used BLO on a couple of stocks before and liked the outcome. I have also used i think it was 400 or 600 grit sand paper but it tends to clog quickly. It works though

HH

 

[bobby n.]

buff it, wool it lightly and add a coat, let it dry and then polyu it

 

[chrissmallwood]

Ok so the steel wool is for between coats. I used some 300 grit sandpaper between coats. I thought the steel wool was for after the final coat.

Bobby n.- What do you mean by wool it?
And if it makes any difference I am using the stain that has polyurethane in it. After my final coat I should be able to let it dry and be goos to go, right?
Thanks for the responses.

 

[U.S.SFC_RET]

Heavily borrowed from Jim Watson's post so research his post. I've done it and have had excellent results. Produces one heck of beautiful finish.
Minwax antique oil finish. This finish goes into the wood and not on the wood. Shellacs are on the wood. Produces the hardest finish I have ever seen on a gun. It is extremely durable. Holds up to Water, Oil, Solvent and anything I have put up against it. You can touch it up.
Most of all it is a professional finish. Most will not conduct this type of finish because of the labor involved. That's where you and I come in.
Minwax antique oil finish comes in a red and white can. Spend your hard earned dollars and get this product and slather it on the stock. Let it soak in, repeat. At first it will have a muddy appearance but after several applications it will clear up.
After several days of dry time steel wool with 000 wool. Dry some more. Slather some more finish. Dry time several days. Steel wool with 000. Dry one day. slather some more finish. Allow some more dry time. Repeat steps. What you will notice is the drying time will be shorter, quicker. Steel wool time shorter. The steel wool knocks off the raised grain. Take a clean linen. Sheet linen will do and wipe clean. Repeat with Minwax but this time use a lighter coat. You will notice a much quicker time in drying and a clearer finish. each time you lay it on.

 

[cuervo]

http://www.fulton-armory.com/StockSave.htm

 

[whitefeather]

You can use the steel wool at any point before you apply any polyeurethane. I have found 0000 to be the best.

Urethane finishes tend to be a bit too shiny for my tastes. I prefer the looks of an oil finish for a "working gun" since it is much easier to maintain. You can steam out dents with an iron and a wet rag and you can use steel wool to "erase" scratches.

Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO) gives a very nice and protective finish and all you have to do to maintain it is to rub a little bit in once and awhile.

 

[Restorer]

The purpose of rubbing out a finish with steel wool or fine grit sandpaper is to remove dust particles and to put fine scratches on a surface to ensure the adhesion of the next coat. On some finishes (like lacquer) it's not necessary to sand for adhesion...one coat burns into the next. Oils, polys and resins need to be wooled or sanded. Whether you use wool or sandpaper, go gently over edges and contours as it's pretty easy to sand through to the bare wood. I'd wait a couple of weeks to do a final rub with 0000 steel wool. Poly needs a pretty long time to fully cure. You might want to put a top coat of paste wax on last. It adds a little more protection and is easy to renew.