new 1862 navy

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ginny225

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Just picked up an Italian copy in 44 do I need to patch the ball and do I need to put grease in the end of the cyl to prvent ignition of the adjacent cyl's?
 
An 1862 Navy in .44? I'm not familiar with that model.

But it doesn't matter, your question is generic. No, you should not patch the ball. The ball should be oversize for the chamber, probably a .454 or .457 if it's a .44 and .375 or .380 if it's a .36, and it should shave a ring of lead when pressed into the chamber. That ring of lead from the oversize ball is half the protection you need from a chain fire. The other half is properly fitting caps on the nipples. Putting grease in the chamber mouth is extra insurance but unreliable if it melts or is shaken out when the gun fires. It does provide some lube to help keep fouling soft, however.

Some people will use a lubed felt wad between the powder and the ball; it's slightly better chain fire backup insurance as it stays in place, but it's real utility is providing the lube for softening the fouling.
 
Cabela's sells vegetable fiber wads which are much more
economical than felt wads and come in 2 thicknesses, .030 & .060.

Then using only a little bit of lube in 1 or 2 chambers as needed
just for lubrication purposes will create much less of a greasy mess.

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...cabelas/en/common/search/search-box.jsp.form1

5 out of 5 stars

vegetable wads, February 17, 2008
By Scrat36 from Monrovia, CA


"A little skeptical at first but trying to find an alterate to Felt wads at thier high prices. These vegetable wads work very very good. I used them in 3 different hand guns for black powder. 1860 Army, 1851 Navy, 1847 Walker. i believe they work best for the walker. Especially in heavy loads of 50 or more grains. This makes it hard to put a felt wad. However with these thin wads they really work. Give em a try."

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At nearly 2-cents per wad, how is that more economical then making your own felt wads??
 
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