New .44spcl SAA in nickel, nice but small finish issue

[silicosys4]

Found this at a LGS, when I bought it last year it was pretty nice, no finish issue, barely even a turn line. 1979 production, 4 3/4", nickel, in .44spcl...not something I've seen very much of, so it must not be that common of a configuration. Yes, not the correct grips but i'm ok with that.
Anyways, the gun is sweet, but sometime in the last year it has developed some kind of mottled hazing on the front grip frame. I'm not sure how or why. I haven't even had the time to shoot it, the only thing I've done to it is apply Nu-Finish it and set it away. I don't think its the Nu-Finish, I've never read or heard anything about it damaging nickel and I've used it on other nickel guns with good results.
Any ideas on causes and solutions?

Please excuse the photo quality, I spend a lot more on guns than I do on cameras.

 

[sonora]

Found this at a LGS, when I bought it last year it was pretty nice, no finish issue, barely even a turn line. 1979 production, 4 3/4", nickel, in .44spcl...not something I've seen very much of, so it must not be that common of a configuration. Yes, not the correct grips but i'm ok with that.
Anyways, the gun is sweet, but sometime in the last year it has developed some kind of mottled hazing on the front grip frame. I'm not sure how or why. I haven't even had the time to shoot it, the only thing I've done to it is apply Nu-Finish it and set it away. I don't think its the Nu-Finish, I've never read or heard anything about it damaging nickel and I've used it on other nickel guns with good results.
Any ideas on causes and solutions?

Please excuse the photo quality, I spend a lot more on guns than I do on cameras.

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[J-Bar]

I am not an expert on nickel finishes. I only own one nickeled revolver. I am interested in the expert’s opinion on what caused this. In the meantime, if it were mine, I would see if the haze could be removed using a Q-Tip with a tiny dab of Flitz metal polish in one tiny spot, gentle massage. I have used Flitz with success on mine, and it was suggested by others on the forum.

 

[sonora]

Not sure what has caused the dulling to the surface of your grip frame. It appears some of New Finish is trapped between the grip and the frame. Is New Finish difficult and safe to remove? Does it contain any Ammonia ? If the New Finish is the cause the problem, why is the dulling confined to one small area?

 

[Coyote3855]

I can't help with the mottling issue. I'm curious why you know the grips are not original to the gun?

 

[Slamfire]

Rare pistol. I have no idea how many Colt made in 44 Special, but I think Colt did not like the 44 Smith and Wesson Special, and therefore, did not chamber many single actions in that cartridge.

I really doubt anything you can do, short of a refinish, is going to fix your issue. And if the finish is factory applied, removing it, will result in a colossal loss of value. This is what I would call a cosmetic issue, it won't affect how the gun shoots, and why not learn to live with it. If the pistol shoots well, it will become a non issue.

 

[sonora]

Slamfire is probably giving the best advice. Enjoy your Colt and the very fine 44 Special cartridge. Perspectives change over time. If in the future you just feel the need, you could just have grip frame refinished.

 

[Riomouse911]

I only have one nickel plated gun. It just has the inevitable small scratches that shiny nickel is good at showing. That mottling looks chemical in nature, it could be from poor initial metal prep all the way to a nickel-abusive cleaner being applied and left on.

I checked a musical instrument restoration page on mottled nickel, these folks were saying judicious buffing and possibly a cleaner called Simichrome helps clean up tarnished and mottled saxophones.

I dont know if I would risk that route, I think I would just live with it as a character mark.

Stay safe.

 

[bannockburn]

silicosys4

I would try Flitz on it first to see if it can clean up the mottled haze effect. I never use Hoppe's No.9 on my only nickel plated gun as it's a copper solvent and some nickel plated guns need a layer of copper plating so the nickel plating adheres to it. If the Hoppe's gets through the nickel plating to the copper plating then both layers will peel off the gun.
Here's my one and only going on 44 years old and still looking great!


Oh, and I love your SAA in .44 Special too!

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

I would try Flitz on it first to see if it can clean up the mottled haze effect.

It does. I have an old Colt Pocket Positive in nickel and it's what I have used for a very long time. Nickel oxidizes (tarnishes) just like any other metal when exposed to acidic oils and air. You can try to keep it clean and never handle it - or only handle it with acid-free gloves on - or you can clean it with a polish like Flitz every once in a while.

 

[johnjohn]

Just guessing,but I think the oil in your skin maybe acidic . It didn't come to you like that. Simichrome is good stuff find a small place to try.

 

[J-Bar]

I hope the OP will give an update on polishing success or failure. Flitz is easy to buy; my Ace Hardware store keeps it on the shelf.

 

[Gordon]

That is where and what sweaty hands do to some nickle finishes. I also suspect that Nu Finish might have something to do with it.

Nu Finish is a car "polish" , who knows how it works on Nickle gun plating !

 

[Jim Watson]

I'm curious why you know the grips are not original to the gun?

I think Colt was in the habit of putting blocky blond walnut grips on nickel single actions at one time.

I have no idea how many Colt made in 44 Special, but I think Colt did not like the 44 Smith and Wesson Special, and therefore, did not chamber many single actions in that cartridge.

Well, I have one. Not nickel plated though. A reserve deputy here had a .44 that was nickel plated; worn in a custom basket weave holster to match his Sam Brown belt.

 

[Slamfire]

Well, I have one. Not nickel plated though. A reserve deputy here had a .44 that was nickel plated; worn in a custom basket weave holster to match his Sam Brown belt.

Corporations act exactly as human psychopaths. They won't admit anyone is better, or equal to them. They pathologically despise their rivals, and everything about their rivals. You can see this, pre WW2. The S&W 38 Special was so successful, that Colt had to chamber their revolvers in that cartridge, but, claimed their revolvers were chambered for the 38 Colt Special. A cartridge that was dimensionally identical to the 38 Special, with minor bullet weight changes.

Colt stamped, "38 Special" on these barrels, not 38 S&W Special. They would not acknowledge S&W in any shape or form





38 Special again, but they did acknowledge the 38-44 S&W

 

[J-Bar]

Any idea when that Colt ad was published?

 

[Jim Watson]

I think the old marking was ".44 Russian and S&W Special."

Labeling of .44, .38, and .32 WCF on non-Winchester guns was all over the place.

Don't forget the .32 SAP.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

I think the old marking was ".44 Russian and S&W Special."

Labeling of .44, .38, and .32 WCF on non-Winchester guns was all over the place.

Don't forget the .32 SAP.

lol yes, and Smith&Wesson never mentioned that it’s “special” was a lengthened .38Colt.

 

[Jim Watson]

I am sure that Mr Wesson considered his new round to be based on the .38 Government cartridge. That is what it says on the barrel, anyhow. Pure happenstance the Army had bought mostly Colt for years.

 

[AndyUSMC1107]

I have had some pretty good luck on small areas of older nickel revolvers by using a pure nickel coin (not a 5 cent coin) but one with 99% + nickel content rub it back and forth over the area. Nickel being softer than steel or the intact nickel finish.The coin will leave some nickel on the area in question w/o affecting the finish. NOTE: it’ll take some time… . Follow up with FLITZ. Hope this helps.

 

[GeoDudeFlorida]

I have had some pretty good luck on small areas of older nickel revolvers by using a pure nickel coin (not a 5 cent coin) but one with 99% + nickel content rub it back and forth over the area. Nickel being softer than steel or the intact nickel finish.The coin will leave some nickel on the area in question w/o affecting the finish. NOTE: it’ll take some time… . Follow up with FLITZ. Hope this helps.

Hmmm… I wonder if “Mexican Silver” will work. It’s got a real high nickel content and the silver “should” also deposit since it is also softer than steel. Might have to try that. Good tip.