New AR Owner questions
- Thread starter merlinfire
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rrg224
Member
Welcome to the Brotherhood of the Black-Gun!
My advice, and personally, I think the best advice...
1. Shoot woodchucks with it.
2. Take it apart/break it down, become familiar with the slang BCG = bolt carrier group, Zombie gun = tool for post-apocalyptic time etc.
3. Shoot some more woodchucks.
4. Oil it some (sounds important)
5. Practice good mag retention (avoid smacking your lips)
6. Shoot some more woodchucks.
7. Buy a LOT of ammo! You know, by now, what shoots best (at least for woodchucks).
8. Consider an optic: Is she a zombie gun? or a bi-purpose Barbie?
9. Oil her a bit, shoot her till she's hot and -
10. Put her away wet!
Enjoy that Black Beauty!!!
My advice, and personally, I think the best advice...
1. Shoot woodchucks with it.
2. Take it apart/break it down, become familiar with the slang BCG = bolt carrier group, Zombie gun = tool for post-apocalyptic time etc.
3. Shoot some more woodchucks.
4. Oil it some (sounds important)
5. Practice good mag retention (avoid smacking your lips)
6. Shoot some more woodchucks.
7. Buy a LOT of ammo! You know, by now, what shoots best (at least for woodchucks).
8. Consider an optic: Is she a zombie gun? or a bi-purpose Barbie?
9. Oil her a bit, shoot her till she's hot and -
10. Put her away wet!
Enjoy that Black Beauty!!!
Last edited:
Zerodefect
member
Just my silly way of saying that I only recommend good factory ammo or your own higher quality reloads.
Even if it means eating ramen noodles for lunch.
Shawn Dodson
Member
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2002
- Messages
- 3,202
Bartholomew Roberts hit the nail on the head!
As for steel cased ammo - it's okay if you have a 5.56mm chamber. If you have a .223 chamber (shorter free bore than a 5.56 chamber) it can lead to high pressure issues.
As for steel cased ammo - it's okay if you have a 5.56mm chamber. If you have a .223 chamber (shorter free bore than a 5.56 chamber) it can lead to high pressure issues.
1stmarine
Member
The only reason to produce steel ammo is because it is a cheaper manufacturing process. If it was better in any way then rifles matches
would be using steel vs. brass.
Personally I reserve some steel for ocasional plinkin and never out of the
classic AR.
Brass is cheaper if you consider reloading, even if you reload brass only a couple of times.
1000K rounds of Wolf ----------------> $230
1000K Rounds M193 Lake city brass ----> $300
-----
Difference $70
Next 1000 rounds:
1000 bullets .224 Winchester 55gr FMJ bulltes --> $84
CCI 1000K #400 primers----------- ------------> $30
Hodgdon H335 ...3.5lb at $20/ea---------------> $70
Brass ----------------------------------------> $0
--------
Total $184
Virtually $46 dollars cheaper than the Russian puffins.
All the equipment you need to get started will pay for itself
only in a few reloads this w/o counting the increased accuracy
and reliability in the AR platform.
Additionally you can customize a few loads for special
purpose.
My driver is not cost but quality.
Cheers,
E.
would be using steel vs. brass.
Personally I reserve some steel for ocasional plinkin and never out of the
classic AR.
Brass is cheaper if you consider reloading, even if you reload brass only a couple of times.
1000K rounds of Wolf ----------------> $230
1000K Rounds M193 Lake city brass ----> $300
-----
Difference $70
Next 1000 rounds:
1000 bullets .224 Winchester 55gr FMJ bulltes --> $84
CCI 1000K #400 primers----------- ------------> $30
Hodgdon H335 ...3.5lb at $20/ea---------------> $70
Brass ----------------------------------------> $0
--------
Total $184
Virtually $46 dollars cheaper than the Russian puffins.
All the equipment you need to get started will pay for itself
only in a few reloads this w/o counting the increased accuracy
and reliability in the AR platform.
Additionally you can customize a few loads for special
purpose.
My driver is not cost but quality.
Cheers,
E.
1stmarine
Member
I you want to spray a target area and don't care about accuracy then anything will work.
I you want to be good at any range then use brass.
Here some facts about bullets and loads for the AR15.
A comparative of .223 bullets LEFT vs. 6x45mm RIGHT.
From left to right...
.224 Winchester 55gr FMJ .224 bullet.
.224 62gr FMJ steel core (penetrator)
.224 69gr Sierra Match king
.224 Barnes TSX 70gr
.224 Hornady BTHP 75gr
.224 Berger VLD 77gr.
.223 Remington load iwth SMK.
6mmx45mm load with hornady Hornday SP.
.243 85gr Sierra Game King
.243 85gr Barnes TSX.
.243 87gr Hornday SP.
.223 Remington case
6mmx45mm case (.223 rem case necked up to 6mm)
This is a ballistics chart comparison I put together...
Cheers.
E.
I you want to be good at any range then use brass.
Here some facts about bullets and loads for the AR15.
A comparative of .223 bullets LEFT vs. 6x45mm RIGHT.
From left to right...
.224 Winchester 55gr FMJ .224 bullet.
.224 62gr FMJ steel core (penetrator)
.224 69gr Sierra Match king
.224 Barnes TSX 70gr
.224 Hornady BTHP 75gr
.224 Berger VLD 77gr.
.223 Remington load iwth SMK.
6mmx45mm load with hornady Hornday SP.
.243 85gr Sierra Game King
.243 85gr Barnes TSX.
.243 87gr Hornday SP.
.223 Remington case
6mmx45mm case (.223 rem case necked up to 6mm)
This is a ballistics chart comparison I put together...
Cheers.
E.
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Well many better experts here than me. But I'll say this, I have a colt. I clean and oil it after ever shoot just because I love doing it. Part of the love of guns I guess. I've shot every kind of mag and every damn type of ammo through it, and it just shoots fine everytime. Can't say accuracy is always the same, but center of mass is always close. Mine is just a good little shooter, doesn't care what I feed it or how. I know how you feel getting your first one, good for you brother.
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