New at reloading, need some advice.

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walking arsenal

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Hey all

This is my first post in the reloading section of THR.

So, bear with me, i'm new at this.

I've recently aquired 15 rounds of 30-06 AP, headstamp FA 45.

The problem is that these rounds are corrosive primed. So i dont want to shoot them through my good rifle, period.

I'd like to pull the bullets and have them reloaded in some new non military cases.

Problem is i dont have the gear for that.

I'd like to hire somebody to do it for me. I just want a box or two. I would supply the brass, primers and powder. I just need to borrow some gear.

What i need to know is though, what kind of the above componants do i need? I.E. brands of primers and powders, even a recipe would be nice.

I want to have everything so i can just say"here ya go" and not leave any more fus than i have to for the fellow i hire.

Can this be done or is it not worth the effort. I'd still like the info either way.
 
WA - short answer - it really ain't worth it!!! (IMO) That said i have collet pullers and if you were close would happily obige you.

You can get 30-06 brass real easy - and a pack of 50, plus some (for example) Nosler ballistic tip 165's - some powder and large rifle primers - you'd be good to go, with the right gear.

I would myself use VV N-140 for my loads - well I use that for .308 and so it will suit 30-06 too. I choose Fed Primers but that ain't overly critical.

In fact - go buy a coupla boxes of 20 Rem - ''Coreloct'' from Wally World - shoot em up and you have the brass to reload.

If you don't have the gear yet - consider getting it - nothing better than home brew rifle rounds.
 
does it matter for specifics on primers? like i said, ive never reloaded so i wouldnt even know what primers fit in a 30-06 casing or do all rifle rounds use the same primers?
 
Sorry - I didn't expand. Well larger cases like 30-06, .308 - those sizes take ''large rifle'' primers. Small cases like .223 Rem, 222 etc - will take ''small rifle''.

I do not think make is overly important - folks have favorites but while I choose Fed - it is only because I use those for handgun loads too.
 
WA, to each his own, but it sure seems like you're going through a heckuva lot of effort for FIFTEEN rounds.

if you want AP ammo that bad, are you actually going to shoot any of it?

especially if you've never reloaded before, you'd want to start 10% under and work your way up to make sure your pressures aren't high. every reloading manual you find will say that.

my point is you'll shoot up your 15 AP bullets just trying to get your velocity where you want it and to make sure it feeds/fires/functions. i shoot several hundred of a given load before i trust it enough to ccw with it.

if you're saving up the fifteen AP rounds for a jack-booted thug invasion, or armored zombies... primer corrosion would be the last of my worries.

(edit: and depending on what your "good" rifle is... rebarreling might be cheaper than the reloading equipment)
 
It's a winchester M70 blackshadow.

I said good rifle, i didn't say expensive rifle.

But it shoots ridiculously well, and i dont want that to change any time soon.
 
Corrosive primed ammo won't vaporize your barrel. Shoot them and then swab your bore, no harm done.
 
I've recently aquired 15 rounds of 30-06 AP, headstamp FA 45.

The problem is that these rounds are corrosive primed. So i dont want to shoot them through my good rifle, period.

I'd like to pull the bullets and have them reloaded in some new non military cases.
Click to expand...

This is kinda like buying $500 worth of Snap-On tools to change one set of spark plugs.
 
That i might get. They're like twelve bucks.

This is kinda like buying $500 worth of Snap-On tools to change one set of spark plugs.
Click to expand...

No doubt, but the tools would be more useful. I don't plan to get into reloading for a loooong time. This is sort of a one instance deal.
 
walking arsenal said:
It's a winchester M70 blackshadow.

I said good rifle, i didn't say expensive rifle.

But it shoots ridiculously well, and i dont want that to change any time soon.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't expect particularly good accuracy from AP bullets. More often than not, the steel core is actually loose inside the copper jacket. I have loaded hundreds of these. They're fun to play with, but 3 MOA is about as good as it gets. I've peirced 1" plate steel at 30 yards with some warm handloads using 162 gr. AP bullets.

'Round here, I just pick 'em up at the gunshows. Some of the vendors will carry "pulled" AP bullets and sell them for ~$0.15/ea. They have a groove down the side from the automated pulling machines that remove them from the outdated milsurp ammo, but they shoot OK.
 
Chawbaccer said:
Corrosive primed ammo won't vaporize your barrel. Shoot them and then swab your bore, no harm done.
Click to expand...

Correct but not enough info. The salts in the primers are water soluable. You would need water based solvent, the old G.I. bore cleaner was made just for removing the corrosive residue. Actually hot, soapy water is all you would need. Followed by a rinse with boiling water, then a good oiling.
 
Ok guys, i've decided that i'll probably go with the lee press suggested above. it seems the best bang for the buck and space i've got.

Question though, does this press crimp and how important is a crimp if it doesnt?
 
walking arsenal said:
does it matter for specifics on primers? like i said, ive never reloaded so i wouldnt even know what primers fit in a 30-06 casing or do all rifle rounds use the same primers?
Click to expand...
Primers, especially with mid to max loads ARE VERY IMPORTANT!!! Swapping a primer on a rifle round can increase pressures dramitically.

I would not suggest Lee. But, if you really want a Lee, I have a Lee C press I'll sell you.

Lots of effort here for 15 rounds of odd six ammo. Even buying a $12 bullet puller, you still aren't ahead.
 
Before you buy a darn thing you need to buy a copy of the ABC's of Reloading! Read it cover to cover, twice and then come back with questions!
 
Question though, does this press crimp and how important is a crimp if it doesnt?
Click to expand...
It is not the press per se that crimps, rather the way you set it up for dies in use.

Neck tension will hold bullet pretty well but if seating die set down just enough then a slight crimp can be added as well.

Better still for quality results is use of a final stage after seating with a factory crimp die - efficient and consistent.
 
Another vote for just shooting it in it's original case. I have an 8mm Turkish Mauser. The old milsurp stuff is highly corrosive but a bolt gun is easily cleaned. If it was a semi-auto I would discourage you from using it. For the cost of reloading with no prospect of near future reloading, I would just shoot it as is. Just my $0.02
 
WA, I think you're confused. The lee hand die mentioned DOES NOT use a press! You use a hammer to drive the case into the die which only neck sizes the case. You then prime using a seperate chamber to AGAIN drive a primer into the primer pocket! Charging the case with powder is done with a dipper, following a data sheet supplied with the loading tool. And no it doesn't have any way to crimp the shell. The only reason to crimp would be if you were using the ammo in a semi-auto rifle anyway.
 
Your right snuffy, whats new. I forgot to post earlier that the price of that lee (die, press, reloader) made me change my mind on reloading.

See, I live in a one room apartment and dont have table space for a press. But that hand held jobby looks like it would work for my purposes and to see if i like reloading without a huge investment.

It IS winter in in MN.

Halvey, you crack me up. Post a pic of the C loader you want to sell and ill take a look. I probably will take you up on that book of yours. Standby.
 
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