New Buckmark Questions

[Arch]

I just have a question about the Browning Buckmark.

Why when you dry fire it (unsing plugs, dummy rounds, or whatever), the slide is alot harder to pull back for the first time. Is is the effort required to cock the hammer that is offering this resistance?

Also the extractor, that is set into the slide. Is that easily replaceable?

But yes just brought this gun, and it is nice. Put 150 rounds though it yesterday, with only one FTF, no other malfunctions. Ignition is very positive, with the case rims being really dented in...smashed in, in fact. This gun is about 100 times more classy than the ruger.

 

[RGO]

Yes, after a dry fire, you're cocking the hammer when you pull back the slide. Same as any other semi-auto.

The extractor isn't hard to replace. Just behind the extractor, at its pivot point, is a plunger. From the outside of the slide, you can push back that plunger with a small tool and the extractor will fall out.

I like the Buckmarks a lot. Hope you enjoy it.

 

[Arch]

Thanks for that. I guess I can dry fire it all I like then?

 

[Sylvilagus Aquaticus]

I'd try using a previously fired case or a .22lr snap-cap to support the firing pin and keep it from peening the chamber mouth, which could lead not only to dents on the end of the barrel assembly at the mouth but a failure of the firing pin to subsequently strike a live round with sufficient length of force to ignite the primer.

Congratulations on joining the Brotherhood of Buck Mark. How long did it take for your paperwork to go through to buy it?


BA/UU/R

Regards,
Rabbit.

 

[Arch]

I am using spent brass at the moment, but I have some snap caps on order from the US (you guys have all the good stuff).

The gun already has one dent on the breach, from a RO at my club showing me how to decock it, by dry firing it.....there is not really much I can do about that is there? So I was a bit annoyed at that.

With out current political system, it took me 8 months to get my hands on my buckmark (my 1st pistol)..... :banghead:

 

[rwc]

FYI - http://www.rimfirecentral.com has a good collection of Buckmark fans who know what they are talking about.

Enjoy.

 

[Flashpoint]

Arch

Which model did you get.

After a lot of looking, comparing, and thinking, I've settled on a Buckmark. Now I just need to settle on a model.

 

[ulflyer]

Flashpoint, I recently bought a "Micro Nickle SE" with 4" barrel. Accurate, reliable shooter. But then I came across a Ciener 22 conversion and put it on one of my 1911's and thats all I shoot now. The Buckmark is a bit more accurate tho.

 

[Flashpoint]

How's the finish holding up. I read from a post (I think it was glocktalk) that someone had bought one with the nickle finish and after a short period of time the finish started flaking bad. Then again I think he said he used hoppes on it and I think that's a no no.

 

[Flashpoint]

BTW

I've been looking real hard at this model, but I really like the looks of this one.

 

[ulflyer]

Flashpoint; can't say about the finish...its too new yet. However, I doubt seriously that Hoppes 9 or whatever would damage the electroplated nickle or we would have been hearing about it on a lot of other guns. Maybe the one with flaking was not finished right to begin with...that would be my guess.

 

[Arch]

Flashpoint,

I got the Buckmark Standard, as my feeling was that is it exactly like every other buckmark they offer, just without the extra embelishments. And if I felt that I wanted to accessorize the pistol (I know I will), I will do it my way, rather than spending extra for bits I will only replace.

In retrospect however, I would have probably gone with the field 5.5, for no other reason than you can easily remove the barrel on the field 5.5, where as with the Standard it is not reccomended (although still possible). But this is not to much of a worry, as I have just switched from using a rod, to using a pull through to clean the bore.

The Buckmark Plus Nickel that you are looking at, basically you are paying more for thicker grips, a optic fiber front sight, and the nickle finish. I also breifly looked at this one, but passed, because I felt the standard rubber grips, and target style wooden grips, and prefered the thinner rubber ones. If you have bigger hands you may prefer the wood grips. I was going to have to change that front sight, as my pistol is a range gun only, and I didn't really like the look of the nickel finish, bluing impresses me more......though I do love a hard chromed 1911..... So yeah, again I couldn't justify the extra, and went with the Standard, as it is a good base for mods you actually want.

All in all, get a buckmark, they are quite lovely. I shot most of the low end .22s, and short of going for a highend european target pistol (with associated price), the buckmarks came out on top. They have a great feel, great point and balance, they feel solid, they are of high quality, they are easy to service.

Cheers.

 

[testar77]

Dryfire

I use a spent case to dryfire and a small dowel with a wire nut twisted on to one end, insert in the barrel and use it to recock by pushing and twisting to keep it from striking the case in the same spot all the time. I shoot Bullseye with it and love my Buckmark!.



P.S. I recommend using some Blue Loctite in the rear rail (or open sight) screw, it seems to be a consistent problem that they work loose after a little while. Happy shooting

 

[Arch]

Thanks for that.

I might also look at picking up some dummy rounds for dry fire practice.

When I first got the gun, the top of the gun was actually quite difficult to remove, as Browning had put something like locktite on the sight screws.

 

[NavajoNPaleFace]

Arch, just so you know......

the only problem I've ever encountered with my Buckmark had to do with the extractor claw you questioned.

While shooting one day the extractor claw, plunger and plunger spring went to whereever it went to. Nevertheless, they were no longer connected to the gun, lol.

Later that day I found a gun shop in Phoenix that specialized in repair of Browing handguns and they had the parts in stock.

The next day I had the wife pick the parts up (for the tune of around $7.00) and I had no problem putting the parts in the gun.

Bingo....it was back in action just that quick.

I point this out because if you have the same, or similar, type of failure it's easily repairable.

FWIW, Numrich's has an excellent selection of Buckmark parts (among many brands) in case you might not be able to find the parts 'down under' should the need arise:

http://www.e-gunparts.com./productschem.asp?chrMasterModel=0630zBUCKMARK

Good shooting.

 

[Arch]

Cheers for the link, I was interesting to just see the schematic....now I want to pull the grips off and have a look inside...lol.

You wouldn't by any chance know where I could buy a coated .22 cleaning rod off the 'net from would you? Noone here seems to sell them, or seems to think that they are nessasary. I have already put a few scratches into the blued one I have, so I would rather the bore contact soft nylon from now on.

 

[Flashpoint]

When I went to the Browning dealer I picked up the Camper and liked it, but found that after picking up the FLD Plus with Rosewood Grips the wood grips fit me much better.

The problem with the FLD is that it's $400 and I would still have to buy a rail if I wanted to use a red dot. I would like to find some peep through scope rings so I could use both sets of sights, but haven't had much luck.

I was told that someone make a rail that can be put on the Buck Mark that uses something llike a ghost ring site in the rail and then you just put your scope on top. Has anyone seen these or know where they could be picked up?

Anyway, the way things stand now it looks like the 5.5 Field is going to be my best option at around $330.

 

[RGO]

Some coated rods are here:
http://store.kleen-bore.com/store/saftcladkits.html

I actually use a .17 cal rod to clean my .22's because I find the .22 cal rods a bit tight.

 

[Arch]

Thanks for the link. I will probably also get a .17 rod.

I have also made a pull though out of weed wacker cord, by heating a spent .22 casing, and pushing the cord into the hot case, so that it melts and sets as a cylindrical bob on the end. Patches are pushed on though the other end, which I have cut on an angle.

I cleaned the gun using that yesterday, only using the rod to coat the bore with some Tetra Gun Tripple Action initally. And it worked really really well! It was much easier than using a rod too, as I didn't have to be as carfull.