NEW Gen 3 Glock 17 Question??

[jasontem]

I just bought a new Gen 3 Glock 17 yesterday and there are red fragments like flakes of paint around the firing pin and the barrel feed ramp. Has anybody seen this? This is my first Glock. It seems like the factory test fired a red painted bullet or something. It also has some white/grayish fragments around the gas chamber on the slide. If anyone can shed some light on this I would appreciate it.

 

[rcmodel]

Test fired at the factory.

Red lacquer primer sealer.

Or possibly a red painted Proof Test round.

I don't know what "the gas chamber on the slide" is?

But the gray stuff sounds like powder fouling from the test firing.


The thing to check is if it still has the copper colored anti-seize grease on the frame rail tabs Glock puts on all new guns.

If it doesn't, you bought a used gun somebody already cleaned.

rc

 

[PowderMonkey]

Test fired at the factory.

<snip>
I don't know what "the gas chamber on the slide" is?
</snip>
rc

Maybe the breech face?

Hey JT... ; )

Welcome aboard.

 

[chris in va]

Clean it, oil it and go shoot. Nothing to worry about.

 

[jasontem]

This was the area I was talking about, I didn't know what the proper term was. Thanks for the info.

 

[Lawdawg45]

The LE Glocks (and possibly others) are shipped with a very thick coat of packing grease, and debris often will stick to it. We were always instructed to clean this thick layer off before shooting the weapon.

LD

 

[Hapworth]

If I recall, Glock manual stipulates shooting first, then cleaning when the gun is newly purchased.

Regardless, if you do clean that's okay, but don't remove the copper paste the factory places on the slide rails -- they assist in break in.

 

[bandk]

Is this accurate? Leave the copper paste on? I just checked my manual for the G17, brand new Gen3, and it says clean and lube first.

 

[hentown]

Hentown, what brand holster is that? I actually tried appendix carry today with a old straight drop leather holster and it was fine, Kydex will probably be more secure though and keep moisture from the gun. JTQ, thanks for the link.

Every Glock manual I ever read said the same thing! It's o.k. to leave the copper anti-seize compound in. Won't hurt anything to remove it, either. Just be sure and don't overlube. Don't get ANY oil in the slide-s internals. Use only four-five small drops of oil, per instructions. I use Mobil 1, exclusively, for my firearms.

 

[ku4hx]

A blast or two of canned air will take care of the debris. Every few thousand rounds I fully disassemble the slide and clean and blast all the nooks and crannies then relube according to Glock and go shootin'.

Best to keep the firing pin channel free of oil and grease.

 

[CPshooter]

It's not the copper grease he's talking about. My 17 had the same red flakes of paint/laquer when it was new. Probably from the ammunition used at the factory for test firing. Nothing to worry about. Clean it up and shoot the thing!

 

[Hapworth]

Is this accurate? Leave the copper paste on? I just checked my manual for the G17, brand new Gen3, and it says clean and lube first.

Dug up a manual. It calls for a field strip, clean and lube of any newly purchased Glock (I misremembered that), and to leave the copper paste on.

Specific to the copper paste -- from the "Cleaning the Field Stripped Pistol" section, under "Slide":

Note that the copper colored lubricant found of portions of the slide of brand new Glock pistols should not be removed, as it will help to provide long-term lubrication of the slide.