New loader needs some help

[Bob72]

Am about to start loading 357 sig with Lee Dies and Classic press. Have MGB FMJ 125gr bullets, Remington Small Pistol Match primers and Ramshot Silhouette powder. I have loaded 7mm Magnum rifle rounds a long-long-long time ago (1968) and have not loaded anything since. Never loaded pistol rounds.

I will also be loading 9mm luger rounds using plated bullets. Now..from what I have read, plated bullets should not be used at magnum speeds or pressures, only FMJ.. Also, I am using the Remington SP primers in lieu of Winchester WSP as I could not find them to order.

Question: Is a direct change of primers permissible? and can I use the same starting loads using this primer from the Ramshot load tabels? I will probably NOT shoot full loads unless they are commercial. I do however want a load that is stronger than a 9mm round.
Any good homemade lube recipes?


Lastly, any help on the crimping? I will use the Factory Crimp die from Lee.

Thanks...the more I read about 357 loads the more concerned I get....

 

[James2]

Do you have a manual? If not get one and do some reading. The manuals have step by step illustrated directions so you get going on the right path.

Yes, primers are interchangeable. If you get magnum primers they are stronger and meant only for high pressure loads with certain powders. Just stay with the standard small pistol primers. Brand doesn't matter. I use CCI primers mostly because that is what the local store stocks.

The plated bullets are great for standard velocity loads. I wouldn't use them for magnum velocities.

You ask about lube. Do you mean bullet lube or sizing lube?

I have never used the Lee FCD and have been loading many years. It is not necessary in my book. I just use the crimper in the standard seating die. Seat and crimp in one operation.

 

[rcmodel]

Any good homemade lube recipes?

Buy a can of spray case lube for cry'n out loud.
It will do anything needed for handgun reloading and is way less messy then grease & a lube pad.
Way faster putting it on and getting it off then homemade stuff like bear fat mixed with rattlesnake tallow, or boot waterproof grease.

In the grand scheme of things reloading, real store bought case lube is clear off the bottom of the "per round" cost list.

Have MGB FMJ 125gr bullets

Did you get the .357 SIG bullets or standard 9mm Luger bullets?

The .357 SIG uses specific bullets with less ogive curve then most 9mm bullets.
Due to the short case neck, and long ogive curve on standard 9mm bullets, you can't seat them short enough to work without the ogive going inside the case neck.
Which leaves no neck tension to prevent bullet set-back during feeding.

rc

 

[James2]

Way faster putting it on and getting it off then homemade stuff like bear fat mixed with rattlesnake tallow, or boot waterproof grease.

rc, you break me up! Comes around to it I have used some different stuff at times when I found myself out of whatever. The actual best for rifle casings I have found around the house, is high speed bearing grease.

To the op, get carbide sizer for straight walled casings, then no lube needed.

 

[jcwit]

To the op, get carbide sizer for straight walled casings, then no lube needed.

And I still give the cases a spray of lube, just makes life easier. I use Blaster brand Teflon Dry Spray that I bought years ago for free at Menards. Yes all my straight walled handgun dies are carbide.

 

[rcmodel]

Same here.

I use a light shot of spray case lube on every round of handgun ammo I load with carbide dies.

Makes resizing effortless in standard calibers and way easier in Magnum calibers.

rc

 

[JohnM]

As much as I like, well maybe used to like, my old lube pad; I gotta admit spraying a bunch of cases in a cardboard box sure is the cat's meow!

Wonder how many bottles of old fashioned case lube I have stored away.
Maybe some day they'll be collectors items like all the powder cans I never saved

 

[Hondo 60]

+1 on getting a manual.
Ones like Lyman's 49th Reloading Handbook have a great "How -to" section.

About primers:
Yes, it's standard practice to substitute primers.
Especially since the Obama scare, when primers were in VERY short supply.
Just stay south of max loads, otherwise the chamber pressure can get dangerous.

Just remember, you have to start low & work up in increments of say .3-.5 grains of powder.
And if you find a load your gun likes, you'll have to work it up again if you change primers again.

 

[Bob72]

Yes I am getting a manual, actually 2 of Lee's second edition. (One came with kit after I ordered one from Amazon.) As to lube, I was going to use either a Teflon spray or one shot but thought there may be something you folks used that was easier to use. Didn't know that you had to lube the bullet. Thought a little at the case mouth would be sufficient. The bullets are Sig 355. not the 9mm as was asked later on in the answer section. Any additional info would be appreciated. Another Q: Saw some jacketed, .356 bullets on sale. Somewhere I read they could be used. Any thoughts on that?

Thanks..
Bob

 

[Bob72]

The bullets are sig although I have some 9mm which I am NOT going to use on the 357. As to the lube. I have some Teflon spray lube and have no objections whatsoever about buying one shot or its equivalent. Just thought I would tap experienced guys for the best way, not necessarily the cheapest (although that works also). I didn't know that the bullet needed to be lubed. I thought that a little at the case mouth would be okay. Do they also need to be lubed and if so, what with.?

Thanks.\\

Bob

 

[FROGO207]

If they are lead bullets they need lube and most are already lubed in the grooves for you when purchased. The 357 SIG is a bit tricky to reload so I would recommend starting with the 9MM first to get used to the process and then move to the SIG. I find the case life of the SIG often is only 2-3 reloads before the neck splits, especially with nickle cases. YMMV