New M1 Garand, what parts are original?

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allaroundhunter

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Hey guys, along with some other guns, I recently inherited a Springfield Armory M1 Garand - the receiver of which was produced in March 1941.

I am curious if anyone knows of a website where I can find which parts came on it originally so I know what has been replaced (if anything) during its time in service.

Of course, I will get some pictures up of it soon :)
 
Thanks! That is exactly what I was looking for... And more :)

Can anyone tell me what it means if my operating rod has 'NM' stamped on top of the charging handle (sorry, not exactly sure what its called)?
 
Can anyone tell me what it means if my operating rod has 'NM' stamped on top of the charging handle (sorry, not exactly sure what its called)?
Click to expand...

That indicates that it is a National Match oprod, which is a good thing. The person you want to talk Garands with on this website is Orlando.

Don
 
Most internal parts on the M1 are marked with what is known as a drawing and revision numbers. Each contractor (SA, Winchester, etc), used a specific range of drawing and revision numbers for each major part for a certain time range. When the part was changed, a new revision number was assigned to the drawing number. In researching the drawing number on each part, you can tell whether or not the parts are the correct vintage for your March '41 M1. It doesn't guarantee that the parts are original to the gun, just that they are the correct revision for that rifle.

Here are a couple of websites I used when researching my SA M1:

http://battlerifle0.tripod.com/index.html

http://myplace.frontier.com/~aleccorapinski/id14.html


Mine is pictured below. The receiver is dated Jan 1941, and when I got it all but possibly one component (I don't recall which, and I think I may have later corrected myself - it may have been the right vintage) were the correct vintage. Even the barrel is original, or at least the correct date for my rifle (Jan '41), and though it is dark and fairly heavily pitted, it still shoots quite well. The stock has very faint remnants of inspection cartouches (as if it were sanded and refinished at some point), and it could be the correct vintage (I really can't be certain though). It could even be the original stock, according to a local gunsmith who specializes in Garands, but there is no way to know.

Anyway, point is it is loads of fun to research.

I did have to replace the op rod catch (it fractured at the point of one of the pin through holes) and the trigger guard (the locking lugs on the guard were worn enough that the action would come unlocked from the stock during firing), but I made sure to replace it with the appropriate drawing number, and kept the original parts.

It is a very fun, addictive gun to shoot! If you choose to shoot yours, be sure you select ammo that is safe for M1s. Surplus M2 ball is a good choice, for example. Most commercial loads are a little hot and can bend the operating rod.


DSC08890.jpg


DSC08905.jpg


DSC08921.jpg
 
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National match? Hm, I like that :)

Thanks for the help everyone. I do have 100 rounds of surplus Korean M2 ball ammo that will be here tomorrow and 12 en bloc clips. After I get this brass I will reload with some H4895 that I have. I've got some websites with reload specifications specifically for the M1.

When I first got the gun I checked the stock for Cartouches. All I found was a 'P' that was not inside of a square or a circle and at the base of the grip (not the bottom). However, I just looked closer and can faintly see a 'P' inscribed in a circle just behind the trigger guard. It also appears that something was sanded off the bottom of the grip and the right side of the buttstock.
 
Congrats on the Garand. When I got mine it was a real beater, but it also had the NM op rod. That made no sense to me, since it was definitely no match gun. Turns out they were a better design and used during rebuilds. Here's what I found. http://www.fulton-armory.com/\faqs\M1G-FAQs\OpRod.htm

Oh yeah, here's mine too. Any opportunity for gratuitous Garand photo. Sorry the photo quality's not so hot. BTW, where are your pics!
997d12be-668d-4412-ba46-98114857a50f_zps7d3b8699.jpg
 
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The chance that a Garand has survived from WWII until today with all of the original parts is going to be rather slim. Usually what you might find is that someone may have replaced the incorrect parts with those that would be correct for it's original production date.

Look at the condition and color of the various pieces carefully. If they exhibit different shades of finish and/or wear, chances are good that they have been replaced. On the other hand, if they all look like new and show very little wear to the finish, it has most probably been refinished. The fact that your stock has what appears to be two "P" proofs and a NM op rod tells me that it is probably far from original.

Don't worry if it is not in as issued condition, they were meant to be a fighting rifle and since yours is an early one, it probably went though WWII and Korea, picking up a couple of arsenal rebuilds in the process.
 
allaroundhunter said:
Hey guys, along with some other guns, I recently inherited a Springfield Armory M1 Garand - the receiver of which was produced in March 1941.

I am curious if anyone knows of a website where I can find which parts came on it originally so I know what has been replaced (if anything) during its time in service.

Of course, I will get some pictures up of it soon :)
Click to expand...
I can give you a few of the basics based on a March 1941 manufacture. The starting serial number was around 199123.

Receiver:
Dwg. Number: D 28291-3 SA
Heat Lot Number: J 7 A
Barrel Side Marking: S-A 3-41 (upside down)
Bolt:
Dwg. Number: D28287-2SA
Heat Lot Number: J8
Firing Pin: Round Type (No Flat Side)
Operating Rod: D35382 3 SA (The NM rod wasn't around then)
Trigger Group:
Trigger Housing: D28290-2-SA
Trigger Guard: C46025-1-SA
Hammer: C46008-2 SA
Hammer Spring Guide: With Wings (see my note below)
Safety: C46015-6SA (without extra hole)
Note: Some of the added comments really need pictures to understand, however, the Dwg. numbers should help. I could provide many more drawing numbers and descriptions but pictures are really important.

A good reference book is The M1 Garand: World War II by Scott Duff. Unfortunately unless you really get into these rifles it's a shame to pop $30 for a book.

Member Orlando as mentioned is likely the best M1 Garand authority in these forums and he usually finds threads related to the M1 Garand. Hopefully he will happen along.

I'll venture a guess that a 1941 rifle will have few if any parts that were original to the rifle. Those that do are very far and few between and are highly sought by collectors.

Shoot it and enjoy it.

Ron
 
I found (after a limited inspection) that the bolt, trigger housing (if that is the right word), safety, and trigger are correct. I haven't looked much further than that so who knows. I don't think the barrel is original, but that doesn't matter as long as it shoots ;)

To be honest, I didn't need it to be all matching. I have been longing for a Garand for about a year now and was about to get one from the CMP when I came into this one. Who knows, maybe I'll get a CMP Garand anyways :rolleyes:
 
NM rods were so plentiful that they were used on rebuilds. Really no differnce between them and a standard rod other than the metal is softer and the piston spec is held to a tighter tolerance
 
Good deal and they are quite fun. The tip on modern ammo is a very good take heed to that.

Also don't be too upset if you find they are a mis-match of different parts, some left for war that way. I seem to remember that during the war if one company ran out or low on parts they would have another company ship them over, you the gun could have come fresh from the factory with all kinds of different parts from different makers in it. Anything to keep the lines rolling. Remember at the start of the war many units still had 1903's.

They are very fun to shoot, enjoy your new prize...it is family history hang on to it.
 
I found (after a limited inspection) that the bolt, trigger housing (if that is the right word), safety, and trigger are correct. I haven't looked much further than that so who knows. I don't think the barrel is original, but that doesn't matter as long as it shoots
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The parts are probably from rebuilding. SA parts where the most commonly used.
The barrels are normally marked where you can see it from the slot where the op rod is on the right side.
 
I have read that the importer says that it is, but some have said that the majority of it isn't.

I will still take care of the gun and give it a good cleaning after each firing regardless.
 
Well I know for a fact it is. You will need to make sure you cean the gas system, end of op rod, bolt face as well as chamber/barrel.
IMO it isnt worth the hassel in a Garand, save it for a bolt rifle. Everytime you remove the gas cylinder you loosen the fit
 
I will still take care of the gun and give it a good cleaning after each firing regardless.
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In case you were unaware, you need to take an extra step after shooting corrosive ammo, before you clean as usual. You need to use something with water in it (ballistol mix, windex, or just plain hot water) to dissolve the corrosive salts. Most modern solvents aren't intended to clean corrosive salts like the WWII stuff was.

No biggie, but you need to take precautions if you want your parts to remain pristine.

Congrats on a sweet rifle!
 
Another great resource for that type of info is my own beloved Garand Collectors Association. The website is www.thegca.org. When you join you will receive their quarterly journal which is a fascinating read on parts and collecting them.
Now to switch hats and talk practical use as a tool (which is my preferred mode for my M1s) if you search here there is a wealth of info. I'd say the admonition about ammo is one of the more important ones! If you don't reload or can't get adequate stocks of M1 safe milsurp then you might want to stick to the Hornady and Federal American Eagle loadings of 30-06 that are "Garand specific". I would also recommend getting a hold of one of the 3 major types of vented/adjustable gas plugs so you would have the option of safely shooting commercial ammo.
Try:
http://www.garandgear.com/m1garand/detail/33-springs-and-things/flypage/75-ported-gas-plug?sef=hcfp
http://www.schustermfg.com/
?McCann Gas nuts (couldn't find the url I have used in the past)

Good luck and welcome to the addictive world of the M1 Garand

Regards,
Bob
 
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