New Project/Hobby...Recommended Tools?

[OpticsPlanet]

Hey guys,

I recently picked up a "blank" blade from Spyderco (Their MULE Team project, check it out if you haven't heard of it). Blade picture attached.

The knife comes sharpened and has holes drilled in the handle, but no scales or sheath are included.

So first thing first, I need to make some scales. If this goes well and i enjoy it, I would love to continue doing it.

I am leaning towards G10 for this first one and I really like the Ghost Jade color.

What tools do i need or are worth investing in?

I have a dremel and some other basic tools, but for things like grinding/buffing I have nothing.

Also, i have some experience with pins/rivets but don't own any tools specifically associated with them and have mostly worked with brass.

Are they an ok fastener type for a beginner or should I be looking at something else?

Basically any tips/recommendations/etc that can be provided are appreciated.

I am up for the challenge but want to make sure I start off on a good foundation.

Thanks!

-Matt S.

 

[rcmodel]

A simple pinned handle would be the easy way to go.

See this thread starting at post #11 for how.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=787998

You will need a drill press, a flat belt sander, epoxy, and lots of elbow grease polishing it by hand if you don't have a buffer.


Here are links to three good companies that sell about everything there is related to knife making.

http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/index.php

http://www.knifemaking.com/Default.asp

http://www.knifekits.com/vcom/index.php


rc
rc

 

[bikerdoc]

Might want to practice with some cheap wood first.

 

[Valkman]

Micarta or G10 is a good choice and easy to work with but the dust is deadly so wear a mask when grinding it. Use a good waterproof epoxy - that's what holds it together. 5 min epoxies are not waterproof but some use it, I use 30 min stuff.

When you get the handles about ready to glue make sure you shape and finish the front of the grips - you cannot do it once they are on.

When you clamp the handles lots of epoxy will squeeze out, I use acetone to clean it up but some use alcohol. Make sure the front of the knife especially is clean!

I always sandblast the tang before glueing the handles on, but at least rough it up with sandpaper.

Here's a thread I did on finishing a knife
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=731623&highlight=How+to+finish

Just know that working with sharp knives is very dangerous and no knifemaker does it. I'd dull it and sharpen it again when it's done.

 

[hso]

Just a credit card - http://www.halperntitanium.com/spyderco-handles/

 

[Valkman]

LOL for $45 + $10 shipping you can go straight to the epoxying step! Easy.

 

[rcmodel]

Yea!!

What the fun and learning experience it buy scales ready to put on???

rc

 

[redneck]

A drill,hacksaw, a couple files, and some sandpaper are all you really have to have, but it will be a lot of work.
A drill press and a beltsander will make it a lot easier. Even just a hand held belt sander you can flip over, or a little 1x30 from harbor freight will help.


Brass pins and epoxy are a good way to attach the scales. The pins really don't even have to be peened if you do a good job on the epoxy but its not hard to do and gives a little extra insurance.


I like working with micarta better than G10 but both are pretty easy to deal with.

 

[OpticsPlanet]

A simple pinned handle would be the easy way to go.

See this thread starting at post #11 for how.

Thanks RC! I was hoping you would comment, your knife threads are pretty impressive.

I think I would prefer the pinned route vs the epoxy route...i really like the pinned look and the contrast it can provide

Just a credit card

HSO, thats a damn good find...but i will save that for my 3rd or 4th MULE blade

They don't have Ghost Jade color and the point of this purchase was a project...plus I like to think I have enough of an artistic seed to make something unique

the premade handles makes it easier to give one as a gift though so I really appreciate the find...a pre-made sheath would've been better haha i dont think thats a project i want to dive into

I really appreciate the tips guys and I will be sure to post pics as i progress

-Matt S.

 

[rcmodel]

I think I would prefer the pinned route vs the epoxy route

Pins & epoxy are a two-part system of attaching scales.

I wouldn't use one without the other.

Go back and look at this tread I linked above.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=10022145&postcount=54

http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=10022160&postcount=55

http://www.thehighroad.org/showpost.php?p=10022484&postcount=61

rc

 

[Valkman]

Pins help but I wouldn't build a knife using only them. Epoxy does most of the work and the pins look good!

 

[redneck]

I agree with RC and Valkman, use both. Its possible to only used peened pins, but it would be very difficult to hold everything while you peen them without having it glued up. If you use good quality epoxy and the proper preparations you don't even need to peen the pins.

 

[rcmodel]

The other thing is, the epoxy seals under the scales so no blood, moisture, or dirt can get under them and corrode the blade tang over the years.

It makes a knife handle impervious to anything you can throw at it over the years.

rc

 

[JShirley]

"Ghost Jade" is just standard G10. Sam put some nice scales on a Mule. Maybe he'll comment.

 

[Sam1911]

Hi! That'll be a fun project!

When I did mine I used green canvas micarta. Shaped mostly with sanding drums in my drill press. Lanyard holes are 18-8 stainless. I got the tubes from McMaster-Carr and they were a direct press-fit, easily installed through the tang, using my vice. Yeah, I epoxy everything, and as Valkman said, rough up all mating surfaces either by blasting or by sanding vigorously, or even what I normally do, scarifying the surfaces with an angle grinder.

 

[rcmodel]

Great job Sam!!!

That looks real nice!!

rc