New Rifle: Factory Ammo or Reload

[PecosRiverM]

When you buy(get) a new rifle do you:
Buy factory ammo til you find the best bullet weight?

Start with various reloads and bullet weights?

Thanks

 

[Slamfire]

If you have too many rifles, you end up shooting reloads.

However, in developing loads for absolutely new calibers, I shoot factory, and reloads over a chronograph. I want my reloads to be close to factory velocities, assuming that the factory loads provide the performance I want.

Of course I examine on paper performance, and once I get a reload that is acceptable, that is what I will use.

Factory ammunition is expensive, maybe with premium bullets I might stick to factory, but in most cases, I get Nosler partition bullets, or equivalent, and reload my own.

 

[Roadkill]

Welcome, and I have several guns that have never known the feel of store bought ammo. Most likely never will.

 

[dmftoy1]

Welcome to the site!

I used to always shoot factory until I aquired enough once fired brass to justify reloading . . .

2 years ago I got to the point where I ordered the dies, bullets and brass at the same time as I ordered the rifle at the dealer. (or was waiting for the waiting period to expire)

Now I not only order the dies, bullets and brass, but the mold, gas checks and sizing dies so I can cast the bullets. It's a sickness I tell you!!! (and I blame the people on this damn site!! )

 

[PecosRiverM]

Roadkill

My question would be: How do you find the best bullet weight? Do you buy boxes in various weights and see which works best?

The reason I ask is I've got a .270 I bought 100 rds of 150gr corelok. At 50yds I onehole 3rds.. at 100yds <1inch.. at 200yds no telling where it's going 3" high and the next 6" low.

My Dad said it was the shooter. So I took my .243 and put 3 in the bull at 200yds. He said let me try and almost missed the paper(he's a great shot too).

I was thinking maybe 150gr was too big and 130gr or something might be better. Just didn't want to buy a box of bullets only to use half or so.

Thanks

 

[dmftoy1]

FWIW - Most Hornady bullets specify a recommended twist rate. I'd check the twist rate and match it to the bullets as a starting point and then move up/down and see if accuracy deteriorates.

 

[RustyFN]

I would shoot reloads. But then I haven't bought factory ammo in over a year.
Rusty

 

[fireflyfather]

The only ammo I don't reload (and cast!) is rimfire and shotshells. All centerfire ammo I use, I cast & load for. Then again, I only need 2 Lee Loaders to do that....

Factory ammo is good for SHTF, self defense, hunting, or other mission-critical applications UNTIL you are confident in your reloading abilities. Then it's a matter of personal choice. It's also a good source of once-fired brass. Otherwise, a waste of $.

 

[Down South]

I haven’t shot a off the shelf rifle cartridge in over 35 years. If I don’t have the brass to reload then I’ll buy new unprimed brass. Factory cartridges are made to fit any rifle of that caliber. When reloading you build the cartridges to fit (your) rifle. A cartridge built to fit the chamber will be more accurate than an off the shelf cartridge. I really don’t get serious till the second firing of a new piece of brass. Then I know it has been fire formed to fit the chamber of the rifle that I’ve shot it out of. Then I mostly only neck size the case after that.
For working out what bullet does best there are a few rules that I follow. One, most calibers work best with a standard weight bullet (Example, 30 caliber usually likes around a 180 Gr bullet). For instance if you use too heavy of a bullet you usually have to seat the bullet with a good portion of it past the case neck into the case. On a bullet that’s to light you might not get enough of it into the neck. Some bullet weights are just known to fly better than others in certain calibers. I like to use a bullet that will seat right at or close to the bottom of the neck of the case. Now we have different styles of bullets, many of them. Depending on what you will be shooting will determine what you choose. The rest is trial and error. It takes a lot of homework to come up with the perfect load. Different types of powder play a big roll in load development too.
Have fun.

 

[Vern Humphrey]

Six of one, half a dozen of the other. I have many guns that have never been sullied with a factory round.

I start with the powder that gives the highest velocity -- because this is an indication that the powder is well-balanced in this cartridge. Then I use "ladders."

I load 10 rounds -- each with a different powder charge. I start at the recommended starting load and go up in even increments. Then I shoot them all in one 10 round group, keeping track of the sequence number of each round. When you do this, you normally find a few rounds in the center of the group that are close together in sequence number. Pick the charge in the middle of that range.

Then load 10 more rounds with that charge, and vary the seating depth. Repeat the ladder, and choose the seating depth in the middle of the tight group.

This costs less than the price of a box of factory ammo, and gives you a chance to zero as well.

 

[PecosRiverM]

Thanks for all your help.
I'll get a box of 130gr and see if they will group. Hopefully they will then I can start reloading.

If not then I'll have to move to the scope to see if it's the problem.

It's a cheap rifle and cheap scope (Rem 710).

Thanks again

 

[fireflyfather]

PRM: You'll do fine. I've been reloading for less than six months. I don't expect to be buying much factory ammo anymore, and when I do, I will resent it. As for cheap rifles and cheap scopes, if it will shoot <1" @100yds, there's no reason it can't shoot =2-3", instead of 9" @200yds. Just start fiddling with it.

 

[Snapping Twig]

Factory ammo is over rated.

Reload, dial it in and save money.

 

[James41]

Personally i like reloading, but you might want to check a lot of companys will void the warrantee if your shooting reloads so you might want to hold off for awhile.

 

[The Bushmaster]

Buying one box of factory ammunition and shooting it from your new rifle first will (if you have a chronograph) give you a base line to work with when you start reloading for it...

 

[K3]

Personally i like reloading, but you might want to check a lot of companys will void the warrantee if your shooting reloads so you might want to hold off for awhile.

How would they know?

 

[Zeke/PA]

I can't remember when I last shot a factory load in any of my rifles.
My last purchase was a .25/06 and I actually purchased the dies and components before I acquired the rifle.
Zeke

 

[jenrob]

If I buy a new Rifle I will buy the dies and brass. More than likely I have the primers and a powder that will get me started. After you have been reloading a while you while most likely have other boxes of that size of bullet or know somebody that does. If I ordered the rifle or pistol I get kinda ansy and can't wait so I set up 2 5round rgroups of each that I have to book specs (half way between min and max.) . for pistol I load 4-500rnds. I can't remember the last time I made it bake to my house just to hold a new gun. I see people all the time saying I'll go out sometime next week. and I'm thinking you didn't see a leaf or pop can on you way home.
the 5 round groups take 10 rounds out of each of the boxes that I have gives me and idea of how it shoots and what my new gun likes and leaves me with 90 trading rounds for a friend to try on there next gun.