New SA 1911 GI model

[kount_zer0]

First let me say Merry Christmas, and thanks for a great body of knowledge and sanity.

I just bought a SA 1911 GI model on Thursday. On Friday, I feild stripped it, cleaned it and oild it sparsely as I was trind to do by USMC Cadres in 1993.

My shooting on Friday went rather well. 150 rds of Winchester 230gr ball went down range with no hitches at all.

Any advice on any break-in procedures? I'm going after a very reliable carry sidearm, loading whatever the local cops use (Speer 230gr Gold Dot JHP here).

The trigger pull is not what I'd call light, but I figured it would break in a bit.

Is this gun the same as the old Colt 1911A1 that I used to carry (other than ILS)?

Thank you very much.

 

[Old Fuff]

Continue on as you were. When, or if it stops doing what it should come back and explain what the problem is. Someone will help you.

 

[1911Tuner]

Same Same

The question was:

>Is this gun the same as the old Colt 1911A1 that I used to carry (other than ILS)?<
********

By all outward appearances, and by internal parts geometry? Yes. Will parts interchange freely? Probably...and they should. Is it the "same" gun? No.
Right now, the GI Springfields and standard Mil-Specs are running to about 70/30 positive feedback in my area. A few have issues, but most of those issues are easily resolved. If the gun makes it to 500 rounds without a problem, you likely have one of the good ones that runs like a Timex.

 

[kount_zer0]

OK. I think I understand Tuner's comments.

I really appreciate the input.

Is there a particular gremlin in this model of pistol? Something I should keep an eye on?

I read all the stickys at the top of this forum and I can't tell you enough what a great resource this is.

My goal was to purchase something as close to the venerable old Colt as possible.

I'm not sure if I could have done better, because the marketing of "quality" firearms these days seems to include (to a large degree) many features that used to be custom, but these are "out of the box" and rather out of my price range at the moment. I wanted something that would shoot the flying ashtray as reliably as possible, and a few wars, countless copies and even more hordes of varied users seem to have vetted Mr. Browning's crowning achievement.

Was this purchase misguided? Is there an alternative when one wants the plain, proven design?

Jeff

PS: Is there an easy way to disable/remove the ILS? I'm thinking replace the whole mainspring housing, but I dunno. Not real high on the list of goals. Shooting it more often is much higher...

 

[103]

I've had my SA GI 1911A1 for about two years and it's been amazingly reliable after break in. The problem I remember coming up a lot had to do with slightly out of spec ejectors. Over at m1911.org they have a brief tutorial on how to bring the ejector to spec easily. Of course, if you don't have any problems, yours is in spec. Mine was oh-so-slightly off, but I suppose it corrected itself after a few hundred rounds.

About the ILS. I can't remember if it can be removed and the MSH retained, but I just gave up and got a cheap NOS flat GI MSH, cap, and plunger. The pin can be reused (I think that's all that can be). Sorry, I've mostly been an iffy reply, but it's been a while since I've had to deal with this. But that's a good thing cause it means I haven't had to mess with anything for it to keep running strong! Good pistol.

ETA: you'll need a new spring, too.

 

[51Cards]

Mine's been fine. Only thing I hate is the serial number engraving on the bottom of the slide. Who thought that one up? Is yours the same?

Rough toolmarks on the roof of the slide, but the lugs are clean.

Great basic gun. Mine eats anything. I'm amazed.

Is it "the same?" Hoo, boy, have I had 1911-fun this past month or so. Grab some calipers and a set of prints, go for "the wild ride!"

 

[1911Tuner]

GI Weaknesses

Kount...Yes. The extractors seem to be the main trouble spot. Early loss of tension being the main one...and refusal to hold tension after adjustment.
The ejectors are next. If yours ejects erratically, that's probably the bug, and replacement is the only cure in most instances.

There has a few isolated reports of the two-piece barrels starting to separate, but only one confirmed that came completely apart. Keep an eye on it. The joint is at the chamber, just ahead of the "45 AUTO" rollmark.

The GI model that I torture-tested had extractor and ejector problems. Since upgrading to USGI and high-end aftermarket internals, and a Kart barrel, I'd put it up against any that I have for
pure bulldog reliability...and to look at it, you can barely see the difference.

 

[XavierBreath]

First, Tuner and Fuff know their stuff on these pistols, and my advice merely augments their's. If I am in contradiction, use your best judgement. I own three Springers, all of which run well. The Springfield GI45 is an excellent 1911 in my opinion, one of the best buys in handguns.

It seems, from reading various forums, that the GI45 sometimes has problems due to a MIM extractor. If I were to carry this gun, I would seriously consider swapping in a C&S spring steel extractor. FWIW, I fit this part to any 1911 I carry, including Colts. If your's is to be a range gun, then the original extractor will do just fine. I suspect the ejector is also MIM, so replacing it for long term durability would also be a consideration. I have seen no separation in the two piece barrels.

I have not tried every type of ammo in mine, so I can't say with authority that they have no feeding issues. I can say mine have no issues with hardball and HydraShoks.

To swap out the ILS you will need: One mainspring housing, pattern of your choice. The higher priced ones such as Ed Brown require a bit of fitting, as they are custom fit pieces. The lower priced ones such as Masen slip right in, but of course, are not fitted. Smith & Alexander is a good "middle of the road" brand.
One mainspring cap.
One mainspring cap pin.
One 18-23 pound mainspring. A lighter mainspring is a cheater way to a better trigger, but going under 19 pounds increases your risk of light strikes.

Tools needed:
Small hammer
Pin punch slightly smaller in diameter than mainspring pin. I like a small phillip's screwdriver with the point cut off and rounded for this.
Rubber band
Work surface

How to proceed:
MAKE CERTAIN GUN IS UNLOADED.
Unlock ILS. Dry fire gun.
If your grips are fragile/valuable, remove them.
WRAP RUBBER BAND AROUND GRIP SAFETY TO COMPRESS IT AND HOLD SEAR SPRING IN PLACE.
Drive out mainspring housing pin.
Expect the housing to pop off under spring pressure. That is OK.
Dump spring and guts out of ILS mainspring housing.
Remove cone shaped mainspring base and place it on new mainspring.
Drop base and mainspring into new housing.
Place new standard mainspring cap on mainspring.
Use punch/nailset/small wooden dowel/to compress mainspring assembly enough to slip mainspring cap pin into place through reverse of housing.
Slip mainspring housing assembly into frame of gun, compress it a bit, and use punch and hammer to drive in mainspring pin again.
Take off rubber band.
Check function.
Buy 2000 rounds of 45ACP and have fun.

There are many ways of lightening trigger pull. It will lighten itself through use, Dry firing the gun will help a lot. You can speed up the process by honing the trigger stirrup. You can also try "boosting" the trigger to hone the sear and hammer hooks. If you choose to do this, do it safely, use the right tools/parts/measurements, and test fire the gun afterwards. If you have any doubt in your abilities, leave it be.

There is the consideration that if the gun is used for self defense, or a person is harmed from an accidental discharge, a prosecutor could make hay out of the fact you have removed a "safety" feature, and are therefore reckless. I cannot cite cases off the top of my head, but I recall reading about a couple of successful/near successful prosecutions after negligent discharges on guns with safety features altered. Whether that is a viable argument is subject to political climates in your location. Just be aware.

As far as it "being like a Colt" out of the box, yes, I believe that for a "non-Colt" 1911, the GI45 is for all practical purposes, the closest. It begs the question though......if you want an "old Colt" then why not buy an old Colt? Too expensive? Nahhhhhhhhhh. Nice Sistema Colts can still be had for under $500, in great shape. (of course Lipseys just imported some dog Sistemas this year that are selling in the $300 range at gun shows....they are, though, real old Colts.) Many would argue that even Colts are not "real" Colts anymore..... I think I understand what you mean by your question.....The closest affordable and durable modern pistol to a M1911A1. If that is what you meant, then you got your wish with the GI45.

 

[1911Tuner]

MIM

XB...Springfield has never used MIM extractors, to the best of my knowledge, and neither did Kimber. (Colt has that dubious honor, and they got weaned pretty quickly. Their recent machined extractors are very good. The few that I've seen and adjusted seem to be made of good steel, and properly spring-tempered.) The ones in the Springfields that are giving problems are machined steel. They're just not very good steel...or they're heat-treated badly. Some that I've replaced are a little out-of-spec. Some salvageable...Some not. I don't know who their vendor is, but they really need to get'em on track or punt. Those junk extractors are gonna cause an otherwise decent pistol to be shunned by the masses.

 

[XavierBreath]

Those dadgummed MIM extractors...........

From somewhere, I recall seeing/cussing an extractor with the little round impression from the MIM mold. I reckon I assumed it was on one of my pistols instead of someone elses.......I own Colts, SW1911s and the Springers. It couldn'ta been the Colts.......

Good to hear Springfield hasn't tried that yet.......

 

[45auto]

Colt it was! On the 1911 forum they had pictures of the MIM extractor and barstock one.

When Springfield sold extractors on their website, no longer, they advertised them as "forged"...for whatever that's worth.

 

[kount_zer0]

WOW! Thank you all very much! Old Fuff wasn't kidding. Mine dosen't even have a "problem" yet and I'm already getting tons of good feedback!

51: Yes the serial number is inside the slide, as is a "019" chseled into the surface that manipulates the connect...I think. This "unobtrusive" mark is already showing signs of wear...I can't thing why anyone would do that...

I'll grind it off with a cuttingwheel on my Dremel, and no worries...

Just kidding !

Tuner: Thank you for the input. A two piece barrel with the splice at the chamber? :banghead:

I see what you mean: It clearly aint the same gun. Did I take the blue pill and end up in the Matrix or something?

Also, can I bug you more about finding old colts in that price range?

XB: Thank you for the link, procedure and reminder of the sticky legal enviornment. I think since I will carry this peice once it's proven, then I will leave the stupid ILS alone unless instructed otherwise by SA or other authority...

All:
I'm inclined to just go shoot the daylights out of this pstol and make it prove itself worthy or unworthy of attention. If it runs and nothing breaks so be it.

Any recommendaions on intervals of a detail strip of this type of peice?

Thanks, and Merry Christmas!
Jeff

 

[XavierBreath]

Any recommendaions on intervals of a detail strip of this type of peice?

On my 1911s, I field strip them, clean & lube them after each range session, unless I am shooting the next day and am too lazy. I don't let them sit dirty for more than a coupla days.

I keep my carry gun clean as a whistle, cleaning it at the range after I shoot it.

A detail strip/cleaning is not all that necessary for routine maintenance, and might be done on my guns about once every 10 range sessions or so.

 

[51Cards]

Ya got me with the "Dremel" line. I mean, even before I could get to the next line.

Brings up an interesting question, though. If any parts of those numbers are raised, that would be annoying. I'm wondering (since a mini-milling machine was a little out there for a Christmas list) if a careful, light stoning --- to make sure there isn't any lift to the numbers --- would be OK, as long as the surface of the lug proper isn't touched? [WARNING : This is NOT a suggestion, but a question for Tuner, XB, Fuff, et al.]

 

[1911Tuner]

Numbers

Ya wanna be real careful about filing or stoning the disconnector rail. If you remove too much metal, the disconnector won't disconnect and the hammer will follow the slide. Use a flat stone to dress the edges of the stamped or rolled markings until they're flush with the rail, and no more.

 

[51Cards]

Yup, that's what I mean. No touchee railee!

But WHY do they put those numbers there? To sell more hammers?

 

[Hacker15E]

Tuner worked his magic on my Springer GI 1911, and the thing has run literally flawless since then. It actually runs better than my Colt!



Of course, it's now sitting in a safe in storage while I'm living in a country where the Queen wants her subjects disarmed full time.

(Thanks Tuner!! I owe ya one! Lookin' forward to shooting with you again when I get back to NC.)

 

[1911Tuner]

Jolly Olde Sheepland

Hey hey! Good to hear from ya, bud! Sorry that the ruling class of that once great nation doesn't trust ya with a pistol, even though the U.S.Air Force trusts ya enough to turn ya loose with an F-118. Could be worse, lad.
At least ya ain't takin' ground fire over Fallujah on this assignment. Hurry home. The fallin' plate machines await.

Thank you for your service, Major. Godspeed.