New to bow hunting Part II

[Victor1Echo]

I just wanted to start a new thread to update the content so to speak. I bought a used Ben Pearson Diamondback. After messing around with it for a month, I decided I wanted to upgrade the accessories. I took it to a bow shop, who also sold Mission bows -highly recommend to me. After looking at upgrading vs. buying a new bow I decided to just buy a new bow, especially after shooting a Mission Craze. So I have a Mission Craze. And I am pretty excited about it. Thanks to all for comments and suggestions.

I have been shooting it without a stabilizer--do you need one? And if so any recommendations for this bow?

 

[WayBeau]

I have a 7" Octane on my bow (came with it). If nothing else, it keeps my bow sling from falling down. I have to take it off when I put my bow in its case, so I've done a lot of exercises in drawing the bow without it on there and I honestly can't really tell the difference in when it's on and when it's not. You could probably just get a Limbsaver S-Coil from Wal-Mart and be good to go.

I'm sure there's someone here that can explain the usefullness of the stabilizer though.

 

[tarosean]

Stabilizers help slow your natural movement of your arm down.. This will be an individual thing. you probably dont want a long one for hunting purposes thou.

As for a dampner, if you can feel vibration when you shoot you probably need one. I dont like the coiled ones as some of them introduce noise.

you will honestly have to buy or try a few different styles to see what you like..

 

[25cschaefer]

Any good bow shop with a range or tuning lane should let you try any number of them.

The main reason I have one on mine is for balance; when you shoot your bow should rotate forward at the top, dropping away from the arrow. My Mission Riot came with a stubby little stabilizer and I tried shooting it with out it; it tipped back, not enough to contact the arrow during flight but I don't like the cam coming toward my face when I shoot so I twisted the stabilizer on and now it drops forward. I did not see an improvement in vibration control because the bow has very little to begin with.

 

[Victor1Echo]

I went back to the bow shop -- great family owned place, that just passed ownership on to their son, who was born the year his mom and dad opened it. And it was lesson time, and all the lanes were full of young girls--go figure. They had a variety of stabilizers to try, but I won't get to on this trip. I have a 3 or 4 inch limb saver stabilizer that I will try this weekend.

 

[Victor1Echo]

Also spotted my first buck. Finally got downwind and in some cover. Only problem not in my zone. Only about 100 yards from the road that marks the boundary. The road runs thru a valley, and I was hiking to the other side so i could glass zone, that is when I saw the deer, and I had my dogs.

 

[grubbylabs]

I have really liked the s-coils they seem to work fairly well at reducing noise and vibration. My Hyperlight is only 29.75 axle to axle so it needed a slightly longer one that the typical s-coil. I bought a 7" I think, it has a short addition to it that you can use to make it a total of 7" long or you can take it out and have it only 5" long. Typically I only use the 5" piece any more unless sighting in and or tuning.

I will second the shoot your bow with every one they have and utilize the death grip I talked about in the other thread. It will help you feel the difference, you don't really need to stand any farther than 5 feet from the bale so do the first few shots with your eye's closed so you can really feel the bow.

Every one is different so take your time and make sure that you get one that really makes a difference. As far as hunting goes you will likely spend some time on the ground so the shortest one you can use within reason would be best.

I would also look into some vibration dampeners for your limbs. You can get actual limb savers or any other brand you like. I am really happy with my set that are made by bow jaxs. They are kinda as strict shaped. But I think most any would work fairly well. IF you can get away without a string leach of any kind you will be better off. A string leach is a rubber piece that is placed in your string, one up by the upper cam or wheel and one by the lower cam, they have a habit of falling apart and hitting you and people net to you. Usually in the eye for some reason. There are some that are made really well, so if you do get them, make sure they are really built well. They guy who services the bows should know off hand which ones tend to last the longest.

Good luck and take advantage of the shops help. If you have any question don't hesitate to ask.

 

[Victor1Echo]

I bought a limb saver 4 inch model before I posted this. I kept forgetting to bring it with me. When I finally did, it tightened up my groups. I have been practicing 2 times a day, and increased my poundage to closer to 50#. My groups keep getting tighter. Having a great time! Archery is very different than shooting guns, but a whole new fun all its own!

 

[jbkebert]

50# is plenty of poundage to hunt with when we are talking about deer. Heck both of my hunting bows are set at 52#. Don't get to crazy with trying to pull lots of draw weight. Stop where you are and practice don't change anything else at this point. Season is creeping up very very fast and its time to knuckle down.

The craze bow you bought has lords plenty enough speed and energy. Use some scarey sharp broadheads and no problems. So continue to practice with what you have now. Shoot broadheads one at a time at a individual target. See if they fly the same as feild points. 99% of the time they do not you need to know what changes and multiple distances. Sometimes broadheads fly better with the poundage backed off a pound or two and sometimes adding a pound or two. This is what you need to be focusing on this close to season IMHO. Spin test your broadheads and tune them accordingly. Often times slight changes to your nock with settle out a broadhead that wants to plane in flight. I mean slight changes a couple degrees at a time. Do this to each arrow once you find the sweet spot mark it and stop.

Good luck man can't wait to see some pictures of your hunt.

 

[grubbylabs]

If I were you I would work closely with your local proshop to get your bow shooting Broad heads well. Tuning a bow can sometimes be as much of an art as it is a science. If you try to tune your bow your self this year you might wind up pulling your hair out.

Good luck and have fun with it, but remember to stay within your range.