New to bow hunting

Status
Not open for further replies.
One thing that was weird to them was the Predator Pendulum sight. It's a little weird, and I may just get a normal 5 pin sight, or not.

I would definitely recommend getting rid of the Pendulum sight. Unless you're hunting strictly from a treestand you'll be better served by a 3 or 5 pin sight. When I started out I used an inexpensive 3 pin from Extreme archery, set it at 10/20/30 yards and practiced until my wife got angry. Shot a deer opening day and haven't looked back since. I would also suggest figuring out what you're longest shot might be and setting your pins a little farther than that max. That way you'll know you're accurate beyond that distance and will have the confidence to make a controlled, well placed, shot that results in a quick, clean kill.

Good luck.
 
I believe this was set up for a tree stand, but I really want a normal sight. I also want a bow set up for me. Been thinking about just going down and buying a new bow--because I like archery so much. I joined archerytalk, and its hard to get feedback, as there are so many folks posting stuff.
 
I agree find decent three of five pin sight. If possible as the pins progress they should get smaller in dia. Something like a .021 for first two pins a .019 for the third and a .015 for the last two is ideal. The further the shot the finer the aiming point. Aim small miss small.

If you could fine some sort of archery club near you that offers 3-D shoots. There is no better teaching aid than shooting targets in various terrain at a unknown distance to learn spot and stalk or other forms of mobile archery. This will teach you range estimation, hold overs and body position in a manner similar to the feild. I have been going to these things since the age of six. We try and shoot one or two courses a month 9 months a year. In 28 years I have been doing this. I have learned alot but still learn more each year. Around here the shoots are saturday and sunday 40 targets cost about 10 bucks. They change the targets Saturday night so its a fresh lesson Sunday.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=519697&highlight=3-d+archery
 
I believe this was set up for a tree stand, but I really want a normal sight. I also want a bow set up for me. Been thinking about just going down and buying a new bow--because I like archery so much. I joined archerytalk, and its hard to get feedback, as there are so many folks posting stuff.

Yes it is addicting. IMO I would get your current bow setup for you (draw length). after shooting for a while and experimenting with new accessories like sights, rests, stabs, arrows, quivers, etc. all of which can be transfered to a new bow when you have more of an idea of what you want in a bow.
To be honest marketing is what separates the vast majority of compounds. no you don't need head to toe camo or camo'd bow. Thousands of animals are tagged with dayglo orange.
There are only a couple of helpfull people on archery talk, IMO. There is a very good article called the Nuts and Bolts of Archery that you should probably read in a sticky there. Other than that it's a lot of crap to wade through.
 
I believe this was set up for a tree stand, but I really want a normal sight. I also want a bow set up for me. Been thinking about just going down and buying a new bow--because I like archery so much. I joined archerytalk, and its hard to get feedback, as there are so many folks posting stuff.

It's hard to go wrong getting a bow that has been set up for you. One advantage to going down to a shop is that you can hold and shoot more than one and find the one that you feel is the most comfortable. If you do go the new route, just keep in mind that most expensive doesn't always equate to what's best for you. At a minimum, get measured for draw length and have your current bow measured and adjusted so that it 'fits' you properly.

Archerytalk can be frustrating, but there are people on there that can/will help.
 
I believe this was set up for a tree stand, but I really want a normal sight. I also want a bow set up for me. Been thinking about just going down and buying a new bow--because I like archery so much. I joined archerytalk, and its hard to get feedback, as there are so many folks posting stuff.

Careful there are a bunch of keyboard jockeys over there that think they are archery experts but don't really know the first thing about archery.

One or two of the folks over there have an idea of what they are talking about but in my experience they are far and few.

In my opinion your best bet is to find a good local shop and or a club where you can develop some friend ships with people that can really help you learn to shoot and archery hunt well.
 
IMO Bow Hunting is a God Given Talent!!!! My hats off to you guys that do it. I bought good equipment, had a good teacher and practiced my rear end off. After a couple of years of dedication to learning the craft of bow hunting I still wasn't a good enough shot to confidently try and take an animal with it. Don't get me wrong I probably could have stuck a deer at 25 yards but honestly I just didn't have the confidence needed to let the arrow fly. So I didn't. I've since given the bow and equipment to a teenage boy that has far more talent with it than I ever did. I hate to break it to you but a few weeks to buy and learn to shoot a bow effectively isn't near enough (think years, months if you have a natural talent for it).
 
Last edited:
Just something to ponder over when your getting to the point you feel is good enough.

Here is a link to some very early groups I shot when I got my first bow, and a couple of shots I made with the last one I picked up,
Groups

When I got into archery I had the great fortune to have a very close friend who had been into it for a LONG time. He also has a pro shop close to his house who employs one of the areas top tournament shooters as well as one of the best shots I have ever seen in person. The two of them helped me get rigged up and sighted in and away I went. I surprised them both with what they said was a natural ability to simply pick up and run with it.

If you notice the small orange ear plug on a couple of the targets, they are roughly 3/4" across the widest part of the head. In most cases now after shooting for the past 4-5 years, I can easily hit them with amazing regularity out at 40yds. In fact I do not even attempt to shoot groups any more than necessary due to ruining arrows.

My point is not to brag about my ability, as even though I can shoot decent, my hunting record on deer is somewhat dismal. Out of 4 that I have attempted, I have one on the ground and it ducked the shot and turned in the process. Then it hit some 6' tall grass, and we lost it to the weather, before finding it. Yes it made me sick for several days, especially knowing we had walked within 3 yards of it on several trips through the grass trying to find sign. The others I never even connected with and with the exception of one, they were all less than 20yds. Hogs, and squirrels well I get them with regularity, but they do not pose quite a big a challenge as a deer. Deer rely on reflex to survive and can do some of the most unusual contortions you have ever seen to get out of the way. Granted they are not the same everywhere, but here in Texas, they have that reputation and they live up to it.

Aside from the above, I am using Flash Point .019 pin sights, and I find them perfect for the type of hunting we do. When you go to the pro shop look over several brands and types to compare them as best you can in all available lighting. If they will allow you to mount them even simply to look at this is also a plus as well. Many look good held up in the air but not so much once mounted and looking across the strings.

Broadheads come in a thousand designs, my choice after tring over a dozen has come down to the Slick Trick Razor Trick. It is a compact 1" cut which will slice through the thickest hog with little to no resistance. Deer don't stand a chance against them. My friend and his wife have both had them drop within 6 seconds of impact usually within a couple fo yards of being hit. (Me I just need to hit one.) I can however say the hogs do not make it more than a few yards as well and they are plenty tough to drop close.

Arrows are like broadheads, plenty to choose from, just be sure you match the draw weight with the arrow spine, and your usually good. I am fortunate in one way that I am allowed to hunt with my friend. He has, as mentioned, been at it for many years and seemingly tried it all. I went with his reccomendation and purchased the Axis 340 FMJ. They are fantastic. Are they the best for the buck, probably not, but with the hogs we shoot they hold up VERY well and the slip right through following those BH's with no issues. That said I have several dozen Carbon Express arows which are also very accurate and do the job well. They just don't hold up to the torture we put the others through back in the brush on the hogs.

Do yourself a favor and like the others have mentioned, get in with one of the 3-D programs and go shoot as much as you can. This will teach you to judge yardages, and trust your shots. Most times they do not allow range finders which is a plus. In the woods use your range finder to predetermine the distances to landmarks and you will be ahead of the game.

Hope this helps.
 
Thanks to everyone who has posted here. I really do believe I enjoy archery enough to go and invest in bow setup for me at a shop. I have been steered into the Mission bow line, that is where I want to start anyways. Maybe as soon as tomorrow!
 
I honestly do not think there is a bad entry level bow out there. I would just as many as you can in your price range.

Shoot all of them about 5ft from the bale or target.

First shot
pay attention to the draw, how does it drop into the valley and hit the wall. That is how it feels when you roll the cam over and begin to feel the let off. The draw stop will affect how it feels when it hits the wall since the wall is the stop. If it stops by the cam contacting the string or cable it will likely feel spongy where as if you have a draw stop that contacts the limb it will feel solid.

Draw it several times and only pay attention to that.

Second goal
Close your eyes and shoot the bow several times and listen to it through out the shot process. You are listening for noises. Trust me Deer and elk hear the noise better than you do. The quieter your bow the better. Granted it will be impossible to have a completely quit bow, but some are louder than others.

Third goal

Death grip the bow and again shoot with your eyes closed.
feel the bow, feel for vibration, how bad is it.
When you have the vibration figured out then try vibration dampeners they have to offer. some times the cheaper ones work better.

When you have shot all the bows you can find in your price range figure out what the total cost will be with every thing you need including vibration dampening stuff. Also if you are going to hike a lot what does the total package way and how are you going to carry it.

All of the above should way into your decision to by.

My personal view is that you should spend all the money you can on your bow. Generally speaking the more money you spend on the bow itself the better you will get regardless of brand. The higher quality bow the less vibration and noise you will have to deal with. Also they tend to draw better as well.

By cheap accessories to begin with, at least until your wallet recovers. But your first upgrade should be the rest. Manufactures spend gobs of money trying to figure out how to isolate you from the bow so that you don't affect its flight more than necessary. I personally like a quality full capture drop away, however the whisker biscuit is also very popular.
The next big expense should be your release, like a trigger on a gun, its very important how smooth it is.
The last thing you should spend money on is the sight. Generally speaking smaller pins are better.

However if you buy a package bow it will come with everything but arrows and a release. But you can up grade your package components as money permits, again start with the rest. To a point the more money you spend the better you will get.
 
Damn it Grubby, just read your post after I bought a new bow! i am very happy with it Mission - Craze.
 
The Craze is a solid bow for the money. Make no mistake about how quick it is. Dang things are fast.... Like I said earlier in the thread a buddy of mine smoked his elk with one. A 28" draw length and a mere 42# of draw weight. A good sharp broadhead and a well placed shot does the trick everytime.
 
I got my first bow for $10 and a six pack of beer but that is another story.

You can spend $200 or $2,000 and still suck at bow hunting.

Go to a decent archery shop and give them yourbudget. Stick to that budget. You DO NOT NEED the latest greatest of everything. Get a quality bow that is 2-3 years old and was traded in on a new setup. The technology from 3 years ago is more than sufficient. The technology from 20 years ago is more than sufficient. Make sure your draw length is measured properly and that hte arrows match your bow. We all want to shoot 350fps but it is not really necessary. If the bow shoots well then a 50# pull with big heavy arrows will do the job extremely well.

I have been bow hunting since the early 70s. I use 1 pin set dead on at 20 yards and i adjust accordingly. MOST of my shots are in low light conditions so having 3-5 pins is too confusing for me. I know every distance where I might possibly shoot out to 40 yards because I measure the distances and have a landmark for reference. I use Muzzy 3 blade broadheads because they have worked for me for 20 years or more.

Practice may make perfect but perfect archery practice does not make perfect hunting. I have a good friend that is absolutley a phenom at 50+ yards at the range but manages to shoot every limb and bush in the woods when he gets in a stand. Practice until you can reliably hit your target, 3" circle or so, 90% of the time. If you can be patient and wait for the right shot opportunity then you can be successful in a stand. I practice pulling my bow in my recliner and on my couch since I need to be able to come to full draw in awkward positions.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top