New to bow hunting

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I went with the Ben Parsons

I liked to bow and the guy was nice. It included a case, peep sight, predator iv sight, a soft bag, about 9 alum arrows, three with broadtips, a release, wrist guard, and he threw in his hunting backpack with a grunt call and rattle bag as well as some other stuff. I was very happy but then Itook it to bass pro to have them take the pounds down to 50 from 60. The tech noticed the bow string was not lining up in the cam channel. He put it on the bow bench and restrung it, and it slid right of of the channel. He was a little young and wasn't sure if that was the design or if there was a problem. He tried looking online for a picture to match it up but couldn't find one. So he sent me on my way and told me to call Pearson. I think the bow is fine and it is part of the design--wishful thinking of course. I will take it to a bow shop tomorrow.
 

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IT appears from what little I can see. That the cables are being forced to the side to much. When the bow is drawn and the cables engage and help to turn the cam over. The alignment is off causing this problem. Does the cable have some sort to plastic peice that slides along a metal rod? Post pic if you can.

I found a couple pictures of the bow posted below. I must admit that is one of the oddest cam systems I have ever seen.
 
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The alignment is off causing this problem.
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Cable guard? It looks like where the two parts of the cable attach to the cable guard and that if I reversed them, then the string would not be drawn out of the cam channel. Also, when you draw the bow, the string ends up in the cam, then comes out again when the string is released. I do not know why I cannot post a picture.
 
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^ make sure the cam is not leaning. It should be straight up and down between the limbs. Also if possible, check while at full draw.

Please note never dry fire a compound...
 
Here is a pic of where the two cables meet. I know its only a little difference with one being higher than the other, but that difference is multiplied as it goes down the line to meet the cam. I will try an archery shop today, if they are open.
 

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If the cables roll into the cam when drawing the bow but slip out when it is at rest. I would venture to say you have a warped limb. If you leave a bow of any type under tention even at rest. In a hot car say a 100 degree day when its 140 degrees inside the car. The limbs of a bow can relax slightly and twist and or warp.

Do not shoot this bow until it is evaluated by someone. If all else fails you can ship it to me. It would cost you about $15 each way. I just can't see enough in the pictures to evaluate beyond a educated guess.


Good luck man
 
The archery store was closed, so I went back to Bass Pro and found Jim who changed out the guide rod piece. Still did not solve the problem. Jim called up Bear who owns Ben Pearson, and was told,"We get this call all the time. It's designed that way. There's nothing wrong with it." I was happy to hear, and he lowered the poundage to 50. I also learned that I was holding the bow wrong. "You left handed?" No. All and all it was a good experience, and I thank you all. A few more questions.
Can I shoot into a bale of hay? I have room at my house for a nice 40 yard lane, but a lot to the targets were expensive.
I have a release and the guy at the shop suggested that it would help becasue of the shortness of the bow? What do you think. Should I learn with a release or use my fingers?
Any random thoughts or suggestions.
 
With the axle to axle length of your bow. I would shoot a release.

If pearson gets this call all of the time. Perhaps they should get the hint and make a cam system that makes since.
 
Yes you can shoot into hay bales it will dull broadheads but fine for field points. It's also hard on fetching if your getting enough penetration. Make sure you get tightly packed and enough to be certain you won't blow throw em. I shoot into them longways in stacks of 4.

Up until recently hay was more expensive than targets... Lol

Release is much much easier to learn with. You need to find an anchor point on your face or nose that you will draw to every single time.
 
I still don't see how it was designed to run outside of that channel. Odd
 
That works well? Nothing I've found.

That works, but is a giant PITA? A heavy-duty 50-gallon canvas or other cloth bag, stuffed (STUFFED) with old, torn-up clothes, rags, etc. STUFF it properly, or your arrows will pass through it completely. Don't use broadheads or you're going to hate getting them back out.

To be perfectly frank, this "works" but isn't worth saving $50 on a proper archery target.
 
You can get hundreds if not thousands of hits on store bought targets. Yeah there not cheap. But they are reusable unlike bullets...

I have a few targets (big green and a cube) but mainly use hay since I do have livestock and it's laying around..
 
I've been shooting at a Black Hole block target for the past couple of years. Picked it up on Ebay for $40 shipped. It is layered and stops the arrows and has held up well for me. I don't consider that too expensive for the life of the target.
 
Having just went through the experience of buying a bow for my wife (less of a hassle for me), we headed to BassPro and ended up with the diamond Edge. My wife has not shot a bow since high school (that was a little while ago). After a month of practice and muscle development, she is up to 45 pounds on the bow and can no longer shoot from the 20 yard line due to the fact she is starting to screw up her arrows. The sights on the package deal are cheap, but good enough to a beginner bow hunter. You don't need a 200 dollar sight with 7 pins. Stick with a 20, 30, and 40 yard pin. After walking out of the store with the release, arrows, points, and case it was 550 dollars. They have two styles with adjustable draw weights, 30-60 lb., and 60-70 lb. The guys there were knowledgeable enough to set the sight and get her on paper. from there it is all up to you. they can set your length, draw weight, and peep for you. After that it is practice, practice, and more practice. Oh don't forget another 50-85 bucks for a target if you want to shoot it in your backyard.
 
I'm not sure where your located or if you have an Academy Sports store around. If so look into these for your field point practice,
Field Point Target

If nowhere close to an Academy simply look for this type target. They are usually in the $20-40 dollar range. The Academy stores around here throw them on sale for around $22 or so every year. I have 4 of them and have shot the daylights out of them. On a couple I have to be careful as I will get a pass through now, but those have had thousands of shot into them.

Try and find, if possible, the ones that have a poly fill similar to pillow stuffing or aquarium filter type material. They seem to hold up the longest and can be smashed back into shape by simply stomping on them with your foot. The ones which are light weight will probably have some type of recycled plastic bags material inside, and while they work for a while they don't hold up nearly as well.

If your shooting broadheads, then look for the ones with multiple layers of the black dense foam. If you have a Tractor Supply, or Northern Tool within driving distance check with them. They get in small trailers which have a white foam block in between for shipping, which makes a decent broadhead stopper.

The best thing, and I know money is tight, if you plan on shooting plenty of broadheads is to simply pick up one of the best ones you can afford right up front. It's best to dump $75 - 100 and be done with it for several years than be buying two a year. Trust me when I say, a good broadhead will really work on a target.

With the poundage your shooting or is listed above, you can easily get by with a Rinehart, The Cube, or The Block type targets for quite a while. My friend and I got in on a special from Archerytargets.com,(the cube) and got a couple of thier biggest ones for just over half price. It pays to check the manufacturers sites as well for these type deals. Also there was some folks selling some over on Archerytalk they were calling "The Blob, which were made from some type of recycled material that were holding up very well to broadheads.

One thing you always need to remember, you can pull a field point out of some broadhead targets, even if it isn't very easily done, but you won't be pulling a broadhead out of a field point only target, unless it goes through far enough to unscrew the tip. You will need one of the little rubber taco looking pullers to get most field points out of a broadhead only target.

Also look up Archerytalk and do some searches there, as well as look over the stickies. It is a wealth of information if you dig a bit and ask a few questions.
 
Follow directions in post to...then get a mission bow or o good use something else....in my opiniin mission is one of the best values on a new bow....they really are great

Any standard carbon arrows will be adequate and i would use thunderhead broadheads..they are proven and fairly inexpensive
 
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