I recently tried a bp revolver and had to have one. So I ran out and purchased one, the person I bought it from suggested the modern powder and told me that I could use Hoppes and clp to clean/lubricate. I have read i some post that soap and water is best and olive oil. My questions are can modern cleaners be used, can I just used crisco in front of ball, and are there any books/websites with info for someone wanting to learn more on black powder and different models?? Thanks
New to bp revolver questions
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Steve499
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Fiveshooter
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^^^^^
Steve499 has it right on the money. Great book by Mike Cumpston. I would recommend this book even if you had no interest in C&B revolvers. I think this book represents one of the best no BS works on the subject ever put in print.
Steve499 has it right on the money. Great book by Mike Cumpston. I would recommend this book even if you had no interest in C&B revolvers. I think this book represents one of the best no BS works on the subject ever put in print.
LubeckTech
Member
Welcome to an interesting and FUN shooting disipline!
What revolver did you get? The shenandoah site on angelfire as posted by pohill is great and we will be happy to give you more information than you want on this site - you have but to ask a question. As to your first question about lubrication; crisco over the ball is ok but I prefer to make lube pills by melting equal parts of beeswax and crisco, pouring the melted mixture onto a pizza pan to a depth of about an eighth inch thick and letting it cool. Then solid I use a spent .45 cartridge as a cookie cutter to cut pills (which fit my .44 Ruger Old Army and Pietta .44 1851 Navy pistol chambers) that I put between the ball and the powder. As for cleaning soap, hot water and olive iol works just fine. It works great for me and there are many other ways to skin a cat in this hobby. If you have any interest in history you will learn a lot just by osmosis and if you have no interest you just might develop one!
What revolver did you get? The shenandoah site on angelfire as posted by pohill is great and we will be happy to give you more information than you want on this site - you have but to ask a question. As to your first question about lubrication; crisco over the ball is ok but I prefer to make lube pills by melting equal parts of beeswax and crisco, pouring the melted mixture onto a pizza pan to a depth of about an eighth inch thick and letting it cool. Then solid I use a spent .45 cartridge as a cookie cutter to cut pills (which fit my .44 Ruger Old Army and Pietta .44 1851 Navy pistol chambers) that I put between the ball and the powder. As for cleaning soap, hot water and olive iol works just fine. It works great for me and there are many other ways to skin a cat in this hobby. If you have any interest in history you will learn a lot just by osmosis and if you have no interest you just might develop one!
.38 Special
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Yes, modern cleaners can be used, but why? Nothing is as effective as soap and hot water, and nothing is nearly as cheap.
Yes, you can use "modern" powders, but again, why? Nothing, IMO, works as well as basic black.
Yes, you can use Crisco as a lube, but it isn't the best. There are several made-for-the-purpose lubes which are not expensive and really do work. My favorite is Wonder lube, but you will find other people with other favorites.
Oil? Hard experience has taught me to avoid gun oil like the plague when it comes to BP guns. Gun oil kills powder and percussion caps all-the-way dead. Use a good BP lube on the bore, finish, and pivot points and you won't be sorry.
HTH!
Yes, you can use "modern" powders, but again, why? Nothing, IMO, works as well as basic black.
Yes, you can use Crisco as a lube, but it isn't the best. There are several made-for-the-purpose lubes which are not expensive and really do work. My favorite is Wonder lube, but you will find other people with other favorites.
Oil? Hard experience has taught me to avoid gun oil like the plague when it comes to BP guns. Gun oil kills powder and percussion caps all-the-way dead. Use a good BP lube on the bore, finish, and pivot points and you won't be sorry.
HTH!
LubeckTech
Member
Like I said there are many ways of doing things so get as much advise as you can and find what works best for you. 38special just pointed out something important petroleum based products and BP don't mix - they kill the powder and create MESSY residue and fouling. Clean often and prosper!!
Great ideas
I purchased a Navy Arms Colt 36. And I will re-clean my revolver in some soap and water as I have already lubed it up as all my other handguns with clp and do not want any problems with the caps. Now as I understand it olive can be used to lubricate the entire revolver, And not effect caps right?? (I think the misses has a little in the cupboard to try). The beeswax/crisco is a 50/50 mix right and I guess I can find bees wax in a gunstore or grocery store? Is cleaning any bigger a issue with real blackpowder and should I still use 20 grains of real as suggested in Pyrodex. I think I want the full effect(smoke and smell) of real bp. I will be buying the handbook soon and I am looking forward to the new found hobby.
Thanks again.
I purchased a Navy Arms Colt 36. And I will re-clean my revolver in some soap and water as I have already lubed it up as all my other handguns with clp and do not want any problems with the caps. Now as I understand it olive can be used to lubricate the entire revolver, And not effect caps right?? (I think the misses has a little in the cupboard to try). The beeswax/crisco is a 50/50 mix right and I guess I can find bees wax in a gunstore or grocery store? Is cleaning any bigger a issue with real blackpowder and should I still use 20 grains of real as suggested in Pyrodex. I think I want the full effect(smoke and smell) of real bp. I will be buying the handbook soon and I am looking forward to the new found hobby.
Thanks again.
mike101
Member
A lot of guys use lube-impregnated felt wads between powder and ball, also. It's might be a little less messy for you. Enjoy your new hobby, but prepare to become a little obsessed. 
Bore Butter is a fairly inexpensive internal and barrel lube (Walmart around here sells it year round) - some people don't like its smell (do you like BenGay? The ointment, not the figure skater). It also comes in a Fresh Pine smell if you can find it. You can use Crisco or Bore Butter over the ball to start, or forever, if you want - try it, it's cheap and easy. Then try lube pills or wads under the ball as you get into the sport.
I use real black powder - it cost less than Pyrodex, seems to be more consistent and smells better (or worse). For either, use around 20 grs measured by volume with the .36. Both clean up the same.
For roundballs, use either .375 or .380 (.375 is easier to find but in some guns might be a little too small).
The above listed book at Amazon.com by MEC (a poster here) is a great book to have.
I use real black powder - it cost less than Pyrodex, seems to be more consistent and smells better (or worse). For either, use around 20 grs measured by volume with the .36. Both clean up the same.
For roundballs, use either .375 or .380 (.375 is easier to find but in some guns might be a little too small).
The above listed book at Amazon.com by MEC (a poster here) is a great book to have.
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A few details...
May I add a few details, or perhaps emphasize some important points?
You used the words, "modern powder" in your original post. I hope you meant "black powder substitute". Modern SMOKELESS powders in black powder weapons is another way of saying hand grenade. Never, ever, under any circumstances use any modern smokeless powder in a bp weapon.
There are several real black powders available, but most are hard to find. The most common seems to be made by Goex; it is an excellent powder and is recommended. Swiss is another brand that has a good reputation.
Substitute black powders are easier to obtain but are considered with disdain by some as they are not authentic historically. If you just want to shoot bp, they are fine, with some caveats: they smell a little different, don't make as much smoke, and can be, depending on the brand, harder to clean. I use Hogdon's 777 and am very satisfied with it, although you should only use about 85% as much powder as it is somewhat more powerful than real black powder. Other substitutes, such as Pyrodex, can be used 1 for 1.
"36 cal" round balls come in two flavors: .375 and .380. Which to use depends on the individual gun, and the differences can be subtle. .375 is easier to obtain as almost all suppliers sell it. .380 is hard to find - you might have to cast them yourself - but may be worth the effort. The "perfect" fit: when you seat the ball in the cylinder it should require firm, but not heavy, effort on the loading lever and leave behind a small ring of shaved lead. If you get the ring with .375 balls, then stick with them. If not, you may want to go to the effort of trying .380's. The final decision, of course, is which is more accurate in your gun, so shoot a bunch with varying amounts of powder and see what you like.
Using petroleum-based lubes: avoid if possible. However, I do use very sparing amounts of gun oil on the internal works of my bp guns once or twice a year when I tear them completely down for a thorough cleaning. Never use it in the barrel or cylinder under any circumstances; won't hurt anything but can be a real PITA to clean out. Wonder Lube and Bore Butter are fine products. All the different brands of bp cleaning solutions I've tried work well.
I like both of the references above. Worth the effort to read.
Welcome and enjoy! And come back with any questions.
May I add a few details, or perhaps emphasize some important points?
You used the words, "modern powder" in your original post. I hope you meant "black powder substitute". Modern SMOKELESS powders in black powder weapons is another way of saying hand grenade. Never, ever, under any circumstances use any modern smokeless powder in a bp weapon.
There are several real black powders available, but most are hard to find. The most common seems to be made by Goex; it is an excellent powder and is recommended. Swiss is another brand that has a good reputation.
Substitute black powders are easier to obtain but are considered with disdain by some as they are not authentic historically. If you just want to shoot bp, they are fine, with some caveats: they smell a little different, don't make as much smoke, and can be, depending on the brand, harder to clean. I use Hogdon's 777 and am very satisfied with it, although you should only use about 85% as much powder as it is somewhat more powerful than real black powder. Other substitutes, such as Pyrodex, can be used 1 for 1.
"36 cal" round balls come in two flavors: .375 and .380. Which to use depends on the individual gun, and the differences can be subtle. .375 is easier to obtain as almost all suppliers sell it. .380 is hard to find - you might have to cast them yourself - but may be worth the effort. The "perfect" fit: when you seat the ball in the cylinder it should require firm, but not heavy, effort on the loading lever and leave behind a small ring of shaved lead. If you get the ring with .375 balls, then stick with them. If not, you may want to go to the effort of trying .380's. The final decision, of course, is which is more accurate in your gun, so shoot a bunch with varying amounts of powder and see what you like.
Using petroleum-based lubes: avoid if possible. However, I do use very sparing amounts of gun oil on the internal works of my bp guns once or twice a year when I tear them completely down for a thorough cleaning. Never use it in the barrel or cylinder under any circumstances; won't hurt anything but can be a real PITA to clean out. Wonder Lube and Bore Butter are fine products. All the different brands of bp cleaning solutions I've tried work well.
I like both of the references above. Worth the effort to read.
Welcome and enjoy! And come back with any questions.
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DixieTexian
Member
Watch out if you are using pyrodex. It isn't supposed to foul as much, but it is pretty corrosive. Your gun will rust if you don't clean it real quick. I've been told that some of the others aren't as bad about being corrosive, but they might foul the gun up quicker. I'm waiting for a chance to go try out some of the other stuff right now myself.
LubeckTech
Member
Beeswax for lube pills is best and cheapest from a bee keeper but I had to get mine from a craft store (Michaels) where I was able to find actgual beeswax NOT candle wax which contains some petroleum products. I use a 50/50 mix but a fellow who posts here, called Rifle, has a receipe that is a little more complicated and sells premade lube pills. I like the pills as they are convientient (alot easier and cleaner than smearing grease), work well, easy (and fun) to make and very inexpensive. A local shop wants $5.85 for 100 prelubed felt wads. I don't know what Rifle sells his for but a can of crisco is cheap and a pound of beeswax at $5.00 - $10.00 makes at least a couple thousand pills. If you get really into it you can cast your own bullets and there are even competitions called skirmishes (NOT reinactments) you can get involved with. Check out the youtube videos on the skirmishes they shoot revolvers, muskets/rifles, civil war era mortars and CANNONS - got to get me one of those!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A lube pill for that might take the whole pizza pan. I have been using Hodgon 777 FFF powder but want to try FFF black powder which is hard to find here in Parkersburg, WV. I have some FFF Goex clean shot but don't like it.
LubeckTech
Member
Got Pictures?
Send us some picutres if you can. In the next few days I will start a thread with some pictures of my newest gunshow buys 2 Piettas a .36 1860 army steel frame and a 1851 navy brass frame .44 got both together for $150. When you walk out of a gunshow at a hotel with a big revolver in each front pocket people get out of your way and address you as sir.
Send us some picutres if you can. In the next few days I will start a thread with some pictures of my newest gunshow buys 2 Piettas a .36 1860 army steel frame and a 1851 navy brass frame .44 got both together for $150. When you walk out of a gunshow at a hotel with a big revolver in each front pocket people get out of your way and address you as sir.
WV SCROUNGER
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TRY THIS WEBSITE !!!
This is a fun forum to participate in!
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/index.php
lots of info there !!!!! HAVE FUN!!!
LubeckTech. there is a man here in Morgantown (MARVIN WOTRING)
who builds custom long rifles and sells Goex outta his shop. You could give him a call and maybe work something out or give me a holler when you plan to visit Morgantown and I will split a case with ya ( Black powder that is..not Beer)
This is a fun forum to participate in!
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/index.php
lots of info there !!!!! HAVE FUN!!!
LubeckTech. there is a man here in Morgantown (MARVIN WOTRING)
who builds custom long rifles and sells Goex outta his shop. You could give him a call and maybe work something out or give me a holler when you plan to visit Morgantown and I will split a case with ya ( Black powder that is..not Beer)
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LubeckTech
Member
Be sure to check the paper cartridges thered in this forum!!!!!!!
It depends on which powder you use as to which cleaning method works best. Even if you use the modern substitutes, many of them like Pyrodex leaves corrosive salts behind. Solvents don't remove those salts, but water does. That's why soapy water is usually the cleaner of choice. Pyrodex can actually be more corrosive than real black powder. Soapy water is faster and easier to use for cleaning anyway. 777 is supposedly easy to clean with plain water, but it's always caused hard fouling in my guns that required solvent and scrubbing.
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