New to loading for revolver

[alrod013]

Up to now I have been reloading for 9mm and .45ACP Semi-Auto. Starting to work on loads for a .38 Spl. revolver. Will be used just for target shooting, so looking for advice on best (in your opinion) weight and type of bullet. Lead is out because the range I go to is indoor and does not allow lead bullets. Have looked at Copper Plated and Polymer Coated. Thanks in advance.

 

[someguy2800]

I get excellent accuracy from Berry's 125 grain flat nose. Lots of different powders work great. My favorite to go with that bullet is 4 grains of 700x. Bullseye also works great. I highly recommend getting a lee factory crimp die. It really helps get a good consistent crimp and in my experience aids accuracy. Some say you should only use a taper crimp for plated bullets but I use a heavy roll crimp directly into the plated bullet with no issues.

 

[redbullitt]

I would favor the polymer jacketed bullets/coated bullets. The lead is on the inside, just like a copper jacket so you should be good to go at the range I would think. If you want regular plated I have had very good luck with the RMR in house ones.

If you are just target shooting and using lighter loads, then you will probably have the best luck with lighter bullets to keep the velocity up and having point of impact still agree with your sights. For my plinking 38s I use a 105g cast bullet at about 900 FPS. Very mild and cheap, yet still works well with the sights. Light loaded 158s etc wind up shooting waay high and dont do much good for practice.

 

[IlikeSA]

For just fun at the range, I generally go with a 148 grain polymer coated double ended wadcutter and a light charge of titegroup or bullseye. Using a reloading calculator it breaks down to about 12 cents per shot for something more fun than a .22. It could go cheaper if bought in bulk or cast myself. They make lighter bullets as well if you want to save on costs somewhat. You can also get copper plated wadcutters if polymer won't work for you.

Funny thing is, I never thought I would get into wadcutters, then I bought a box of Sellier & Bellot on closeout, and have become obsessed with the question: how accurate can my revolver, loads, and self be as a team?

 

[Jack B.]

I bought 125 gr bullets from Reloading Valley and they were a good deal. They shoot just fine. I've loaded these bullets in Starline cases that have been reloaded 10 times already with a light charge of Bullseye. I got them on sale with free shipping.

http://www.reloadingvalley.com/38-357-125gr-357-FP-p/rv38p125fp-0250.htm

 

[Walkalong]

A Berrys 148 Gr HBWC or an X-Treme 158 Gr SWC will fill the bill for you. I use WST or Competition, but other powders work. Light recoil, accurate, meet the no exposed lead requirement.

You can do the same thing with the 125s Jack linked to (Or similar) with fast powders. I just prefer the 148/158 weight range for a better
better/cleaner burn and recoil impulse.

 

[Slamfire]

I have not used plated bullets in the 38 Special, I am sure they will shoot well.


I have been shooting Bullseye pistol and my primary 50 yard load is 4.0 grs Bullseye with a 200 LWSC. This combination is accurate all the way out to 50 yards if the velocity is around 740 fps. However I became concerned about lead levels in my blood, so for the rapid fire stages at 25 yards I purchased H&G 68 type plated bullets from Xtreme Bullets. I have heard that for plated bullets you just use the same data as for cast. At the lower end of pressure and recoil, where I am operating, while the velocities were close but function was not. Ejection and lockback were not reliable with a load of 200 Xtreme plated bullet and 3.7 grains Bulleye. This even though the cartridges were oiled. However, a test load of 4.0 grains Bullseye with the Xtreme plated bullet functioned, ejected and lockbacked for my test rounds as long as the weather was hot. When it got cold, I had the occasional failure to eject, failures like stovepipes. So I bumped the charge up to 4.2 grains of Bullseye. No failures to eject but the recoil went up. I am using a light 13 lb recoil spring. The standard 45 ACP recoil spring is 16 lbs. These light loads will likely stove pipe with the 16 lb recoil spring. You can't have everything.

I included the 200 LSWC data as a comparison. Velocity is different for the same charge with plated bullets and cast lead.

M1911 Les Baer Wadcutter  new 13 lb recoil spring                                    

                                                                                                                     
200 LSWC (H&G 68 type) 4.0 grs Bullseye Lot 907 6/20/2005 WLP Brass mixed cases
23-Mar-16 T = 69 °F OAL 1.250" Taper Crimp 0.469"
oiled cases      

Ave Vel = 723.3    
Std Dev = 9.48      
ES = 28.65      
High =  741.6    
Low = 712.9    
N = 10    

200 LSWC (H&G 68 type) 4.0 grs Bullseye Lot 919 11/2005 WLP Nickle, mixed cases
8-Jun-15   T = 91 °F OAL 1.250" Taper Crimp 0.469"
oiled cases      
 
Ave Vel = 742.9    
Std Dev = 9.89      
ES = 33.19      
High =  760.6    
Low = 727.5    
N = 20    
 accurate    

200 Xtreme Plated SWC 3.7 grs Bullseye Lot 907 6-20-2005 WLP Brass mixed cases

23-Mar-16 T = 72 °F OAL 1.250" Taper Crimp 0.469"
oiled cases      
  
Ave Vel = 651.7    
Std Dev = 11.66      
ES = 40.03      
High =  676.9    
Low = 636.9    
N = 14    
all ejected, slide failed to lock back once  

200 Xtreme Plated SWC 4.0 grs Bullseye Lot 907 6-20-2005 WLP Brass mixed cases
23-Mar-16 T = 72 °F OAL 1.250" Taper Crimp 0.469"
oiled cases      

Ave Vel = 686.8    
Std Dev = 26.32      
ES = 91.37      
High =  730.4    
Low = 639.1    
N = 14    

accurate, functioned and slide locked back

 

[springer99]

FWIW, as long as your range will allow polymer coated lead bullets, I'd suggest using them over plated; both for accuracy and cost. Two loads that I've had great results in 38Spl are:

148gr. coated .358 DEWC from Missouri Bullet over 3.5gr. of W231/HP-38 for light target use (cuts paper-punch like holes)

158gr. coated .358 SWC from same over 4.8-4.9gr. of W231/HP-38 for heavy defensive use.

Loading for revolver is the similar as for loading for pistol, except for the crimp. For light loads; WC load as above, you won't need to crimp at all, just seat bullet to the highest crimp groove. The long bearing surface will be all you need. Heavier loads, like the 158gr. SWC above, you will want to place a firm roll crimp in the crimp groove to prevent bullet creep from the recoil. I usually test my loads by loading 2 cylinders full, keeping the sixth round the same for both cylinders. If that bullet doesn't move after firing 9-11 rounds, I'm GTG.

 

[Jack B.]

FWIW, as long as your range will allow polymer coated lead bullets, I'd suggest using them over plated; both for accuracy and cost. Two loads that I've had great results in 38Spl are:

148gr. coated .358 DEWC from Missouri Bullet over 3.5gr. of W231/HP-38 for light target use (cuts paper-punch like holes)

158gr. coated .358 SWC from same over 4.8-4.9gr. of W231/HP-38 for heavy defensive use.

Loading for revolver is the similar as for loading for pistol, except for the crimp. For light loads; WC load as above, you won't need to crimp at all, just seat bullet to the highest crimp groove. The long bearing surface will be all you need. Heavier loads, like the 158gr. SWC above, you will want to place a firm roll crimp in the crimp groove to prevent bullet creep from the recoil. I usually test my loads by loading 2 cylinders full, keeping the sixth round the same for both cylinders. If that bullet doesn't move after firing 9-11 rounds, I'm GTG.

I put a light crimp on all handgun and revolver cartridges mainly to remove any flaring on the case mouth and to help get complete powder ignition. Use heavy crimp for any hot magnum loads.

 

[gonoles_1980]

I like to use 158gr LSWCHP for my 38spl, I get Speer or Hornady. I shoot moderate loads. I've used W231/HP38, Titegroup and Bullseye, currently using 3.4gr of Bullseye with a WSP primer.

 

[Walkalong]

With the plated 148 WC or 158 SWC and light target loads there will be no bullet creep, friction is all you need. I do use a taper crimp to remove the bell. You should not have an issue with the coated ones either, but I haven't shot as many of those to say conclusively.

As well as Bullseye, WST and N310 are also good choices for coated 200 Gr SWCs in .45 ACP.

 

[ATLDave]

I have loaded a lot of plated 148 DEWC and 158 SWC's for paper punching. It has not been difficult to get those to shoot fairly well, although I'm not a bullseye shooter, so who knows if I'm missing some accuracy; I know that the combination of those rounds and my old S&W Model 19 have more accuracy than I can fully access! I usually load the WC's to be almost flush with the case mouth and then put a very light roll crimp matching the (tiny radius) ogive of the bullet. I put a light roll crimp on the SWC's into the crimping cannelure.

In addition to the good powder suggestions above, I have enjoyed AA#2, which meters flawlessly and gives very consistent results at low weights and velocities. Biggest drawback to it is that it is so fine-grained that it will leak out of most powder throwers!

I have not messed with the coated bullets... largely because I don't like to clean guns very often, and I understand they foul the bore more than copper-coated bullets (though less than bare/lubed lead).

 

[tcj]

I like the 158 SWC coated bullets from Bayou. Real soft shooter with a minimal load of Bullseye.

 

[Zendude]

I use Xtreme copper plated bullets, both 125 gr and 158 gr. Bullseye powder works well for either one. HP38 also works well.

 

[RedLeg105]

For punching holes in paper with my .38 Special, I use 2.9gr. of Bullseye behind an Xtreme 158gr. plated SWC. For .357 Magnum paper punching, I use the same bullet with 4.0gr. of Bullseye in .357 Magnum casings. I haven't found that any crimp is necessary with either load. Both loads give very good accuracy and light recoil.

 

[ArchAngelCD]

Plated bullets,mentioned above are a good choice. I prefer coated bullets. Several companies make a good product, I'm currently using bullets from the Missouri Bullet Company. I like either 148gr WC bullets or 158gr SWC bullets.
http://www.missouribullet.com

 

[CZ9shooter]

My favorite load is a 158 grain coated round nose from SNS Casting. I forget the exact charges, but I have used modest amounts of both WST and Titegroup to good effect. The bullets fly at about 700 fps from my Jframe, which does offer up a bit of recoil, but not unpleasant. In a larger gun it should be quite smooth

Personal preference I suppose, but I dislike plated bullets due to the lack of crimp groove.

 

[Jack B.]

My favorite load is a 158 grain coated round nose from SNS Casting. I forget the exact charges, but I have used modest amounts of both WST and Titegroup to good effect. The bullets fly at about 700 fps from my Jframe, which does offer up a bit of recoil, but not unpleasant. In a larger gun it should be quite smooth

Personal preference I suppose, but I dislike plated bullets due to the lack of crimp groove.

Lack of crimp groove. I guess you haven't seen X-treme bullets.

https://www.xtremebullets.com/38-158-SWC-p/xc38-158swc-b0500.htm

 

[Walkalong]

Well, in fairness to CZ9shooter, those are really just roll marks and not a real cannelure. I taper crimp those X-Treme 158s for both light and heavy loads. I just use more of it for heavier loads. And that said, I no longer use them for medium or heavy loads in .357, I havn't done any medium loads lately and use a coated 158 gr SWC with an appropriate roll crimp for full power loads.

I tried the coated 148 WC for light loads and decided to continue with plated bullets for that app.

 

[CZ9shooter]

Lack of crimp groove. I guess you haven't seen X-treme bullets.

https://www.xtremebullets.com/38-158-SWC-p/xc38-158swc-b0500.htm

I have. Have you? I have even loaded some in 44 special. Like Walkalong states, there is no groove. It's just some light texture. The diameter is unchanged in that area. It only kinda looks like a crimp groove from far away.

 

[Jack B.]

I have. Have you? I have even loaded some in 44 special. Like Walkalong states, there is no groove. It's just some light texture. The diameter is unchanged in that area. It only kinda looks like a crimp groove from far away.

Load and crimp them all the time . No problems and very accurate.

 

[Walkalong]

Today's plated bullets are tougher than they used to be, and judging by posts from some of our members some of them seem to be able to take at least a moderate roll crimp without negative consequences. I haven't tried it, I have just used taper crimps. I have shot some Power Bond 125s with a heavy taper crimp at 1250+ FPS in .357 with good accuracy. Tough bullets.

 

[Walkalong]

I have even loaded some in 44 special.

Me too.

 

[ATLDave]

FWIW, I have recovered both .357 and .41 Xtreme plated bullets from clay embankments/berms that I loaded with roll crimps. Even after firing (with significant rifling engraving) and impact that substantially deformed the nose (and exposed lead at the nose), the plating didn't show any damage around the roll crimp. Does that mean accuracy wasn't effected? IDK, but I know it didn't cause any kind of sheering or flaking of the plating.

 

[Walkalong]

If the OP is interested in shooting some coated 200 Gr SWCs to meet the range requirements, the Precision 200 Gr SWC shoots very well. No pics though.

I tried some ACME 175 Gr SWCs and they shot well from my Colt, but so does almost everything. They were harder to get a clean burn with compared to the 200s with the low weight, if that matters.