New to me Smith and Wesson Model 625 45acp

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Tallball

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My friend at the LGS showed this one to me in particular, knowing that I am a big-handed guy who likes revolvers. That was about a month ago. It's been sitting there all lonely in the case ever since. Today I went to rescue it. I brought three handguns I didn't really want anymore. I thought that would be enough, but it wasn't. Luckily I brought my credit card, too. :)

On the barrel it says "45 cal model of 1988". I'm not knowledgeable enough to know if there's such thing as a "no-dash", or if it's a 625-2. I figured someone on The High Road would probably know that.

It's in nice condition. It has a definite turn line, but doesn't seem to have been abused. It locks up nice and tight. The trigger is good, but not spectacular. (Keep in mind I'm pretty spoiled.)

I had a gift card to burn on Amazon and ordered some "Ultimate Arms" moon clips. I doubt if those are the best kind, but I did have the gift card sitting around doing nothing. Again, I figured I might get some advice about that.

I already have a range trip scheduled with a shooting buddy for April 14th, so I probably won't get to shoot it until then. For now I'll just kind of fondle it. I have other S&W revolvers, but this is my first N frame.

My friend who's a clerk at the store thanked me. He'd just about talked himself into buying it. The owner laughed and mentioned that he still owed money on the last one he'd talked himself into.

 
That is IMHO the most fun revolver you will ever own. Love mine. I have the 1989 Model 5-inch.

Look at Ranch Products for very affordable moonclips for your 625.

Enjoy!
 
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Have one I bought in about '89 new for four hundred. Probably won't half that back in pin shoots. Unreal for accuracy and can reload almost as fast as a semi. I, like Skeeter, have felt a N frame with a five inch barrel is ideal.
 
Beautiful grips!

Thanks for all of the kind comments. I'm really looking forward to shooting it.

Does anyone have a favorite holster for them?
 
I sympathize, Captain. This board has managed to help me convince myself that I absolutely had to have this or that handgun. It was never true. :)
 
OP ask for holster suggestions. Here are three N-frame holsters I use with my N-frames. They are not pretty they are working holsters for various applications.

For general belt carry I really like Safariland Model 567 Custom Fit Belt Loop Holster. It's a generic fit revolver holster. They only make a few version/sizes but it has enough adjustment that it can be "custom fit" to a wide variety of revolvers (there is a semi-autos version too) It is of a hybrid construction, leather lining with a fairly ridged polymer frame. On the rear edge of the holster there is a roller assembly that is part of the custom fit system along with the hardware that adjust the tension. The belt loop is a tough stiff rubber. The rubber belt loop is very stiff and in conjunction with a good belt pulls the revolver tight to the body with minimal movement/wiggle of the holster and revolver. They also offer a tech-lock or paddle mount. And they can be had for <$40 if you shot around.

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Right: New 567 for a large frame 5-inch revolver (my 625) Left: Well used 567 for a 4-inch medium frame on the right (my Model 10).

The next holster I use is a chest rig that I like to use hunting as it gets the revolver on top of all my cold weather gear where I can get to it. I tried a Diamond D Guide Chest holster and it was too floppy. I ended up going with a Gunfighter Kenyai. Lots of adjust-ability makes it comfy, and the design accommodates a wide range of barrel lengths. The kydex construction make smooth easy draws with good retention.

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With my 6.5-inch 610

Finally my competition rig. I am usually using my 627 now a days in competition but this same rig works just as well with the 625 when I feel like shooting Major Revolver.

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The holster is a Blade-Tech with a custom drop and NO offset. Mounts to the belt with a Tek-lok The moonclip server is a North Mountain Moonclip Holder from 4wheelguns.com and it also uses Tek-lok mounts. Standard Safariland velcro liner belt and a no-name 2-inch wide over belt carries the holster and moonclip holder. It's setup so the moonclip holder is across my stomach and the buckle is in the middle of my back. Minimal retention but very smooth fast draw and lots of ammo at the ready.

Rambling
 
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Cool, my revolver acquisition list is short with a md 25 or 625 in .45 acp at the top.

dangit now I want a 625. (not that I didnt already, but now I really want one.)

I sympathize, Captain. This board has managed to help me convince myself that I absolutely had to have this or that handgun. It was never true. :)

Yes, the only way to cure a case of Model 25-itis or Model 625-itis is to get one. They are wonderful revolvers regardless of whether you get a 45 ACP version or the 45 Colt version. I have a Model 25-2 and a Model 25-5 from around 1980. I need to find a Model 625 from a similar vintage.

I'd highly recommend getting a BMT Equipped moon clip tool for the 45 ACP versions. A bit pricey but they are the cats meow for dealing with moon clips.

http://www.bmtequipped.com/purchase.php
 
Kydex and revolver? Wow talk about pushing the envelope ;) my metal guns(especially revolver) need leather, kydex and Glock A OK.
 
Yes, the 625 is the bomb! The model # (and dash #) is stamped into the frame where it is hidden by the closed cylinder yoke (or crane, whatever). As to moon clips, I use RIMZ polymer clips that are easy to load and unload by hand. They last forever.

Have fun.
 
All these nice photos make me want to get my 625JM out for some exercise! They are truly fun guns to shoot!
 
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I bought this 5 inch model of 1989, M625-6 last July from someone on another forum for just under $700 and that included the shipping. I had never shot a 45acp revolver before I got this. I am amazed at how accurate and nice shooting it is. I reload, and 200gr semi wadcutters at 800 fps are easy to shoot all day long. I can ring an 8 inch gong at 40 yards with about every shot with it. One of my buddies calls it the revolver you cant miss with. You are going to really like it. Here is mine. It came with the Altamont grips
m625a.jpg m625e.jpg
 
Awesome grips!

And thanks for the tip, LoneGoose. It has "6252" stamped where the crane hides it. (I'm not very observant.)
 
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Smith and Wesson was producing a virtual gun of the month in those years. I purchased a Model 1989 in 45 Long Colt, at the time I disdained a 45 ACP revolver. The 45 ACP is an auto pistol round, it was designed around a 200 grain and 230 grain bullet, and the 250 from a 45 LC goes faster with less pressure. It did not make sense to have a revolver in 45 ACP. Since then I have found that those 45 ACP revolvers are exceptionally accurate, so I wish I had purchased one of them at the time.

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I like the hammer mounted firing pins of the era, it enhances ignition reliability by allowing the hammer to directly impart its energy to the primer. More energy is delivered to the primer without transmission loss. Shoot enough frame mounted firing pin revolvers, versus hammer mounted, and you will see that it takes a stronger mainspring to reliably ignite the frame mounted firing pin revolver rounds. Energy is lost in the transition from hammer, transfer bar, to frame mounted firing pin, finally to primer.
 
My Dad had a Model of 1989 that was a great gun; accurate and fun to shoot. He sold it without telling me after I asked him to give me first shot at it. Now he has a 625JM, and is trying to sell it. At least he told me this time-naturally when I can't afford it.

+1 on the Ranch moonclips.
 
I like the hammer mounted firing pins of the era, it enhances ignition reliability by allowing the hammer to directly impart its energy to the primer. More energy is delivered to the primer without transmission loss. Shoot enough frame mounted firing pin revolvers, versus hammer mounted, and you will see that it takes a stronger mainspring to reliably ignite the frame mounted firing pin revolver rounds. Energy is lost in the transition from hammer, transfer bar, to frame mounted firing pin, finally to primer.

This popular view seems to make intuitive sense, but AFAIK, it’s not been scientifically proven. Matter of fact, there are fans of frame-mounted pins as well, and it’s because they feel they offer more ignition reliability. The hammer-mounted pins, after all, have their own compromises- they pivot on a spring that can absorb energy, and don’t hit the primer straight on, but in line with the arc of travel.

Revos tuned with cutting-edge uber-light actions are universally built on models with frame-mounted pins, so it’d be tough to argue their clear inferiority.
 
I bough a S&W JM 625-8 .45 ACP,a couple months ago.Still haven't fired it yet.Don't worry it's not a safe queen.:)
 
I like the hammer mounted firing pins of the era, it enhances ignition reliability by allowing the hammer to directly impart its energy to the primer. More energy is delivered to the primer without transmission loss. Shoot enough frame mounted firing pin revolvers, versus hammer mounted, and you will see that it takes a stronger mainspring to reliably ignite the frame mounted firing pin revolver rounds. Energy is lost in the transition from hammer, transfer bar, to frame mounted firing pin, finally to primer.

I have to say I shoot guns with both the hammer mounted firing pins, and frame mounted firing pins, (Colt New Frontiers and Ruger Blackhawks) and never had an ignition issue with either one. And some of my Rugers have the transfer bar, and some don't.

Bob Wright
 
I have four N-frames two with hammer mounted firing pins and two with frame mounted. They all go bang. The only one that has ever had light striked was my 610 with a hammer mounted firing pin but it was tuned super light by the previous owner. At one point it would only run Federal primers and only with bullets weights 165 gr or heavier. It would light strike 135 gr bullets occasionally. I put a bit more tension on the hammer spring and it runs most nearly any primer now but it still gets a pretty steady diet of Federal primers.
 
I've 2 625 and they are a blast to shoot several friends are calling dibs should I decide to sell one. Remington and Starline make 45 Auto Rim brass in case the OP doesn't want to use moon clips. I have a good supply of 45 auto brass both large and small primers and a good supply of 45 AR as well
 
While I normally don't go for revolvers chambered for automatic cartridges, the 625 could persuade me otherwise.
 
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