New to reloading, gonna buy a press and start with .500 S&W, have some questions.

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watermonger

watermonger

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I've been playing with quickload for the last couple weeks on and off and I've noticed a few things about the .500 S&W cartridge and I've got a few question for anyone who loads it. Obviously and as per quickloads warnings every time you launch the program, I'll be buying a manufacturers reloading book (technically it will come with the hornady kit I want but I digress) and starting with some by the book loads. I'll also be purchasing one of these one book one caliber loadbooks for a wider diversity of loads to choose from, but eventually I want to start loading some 60000+ psi loads so I can squeeze every last joule of muzzle energy from the cartridge that is safely possible. So as to my questions...

The three best non-European powders that it keeps giving me for suggest loads and any given psi always seem to be Winchester 296, Hodgdon H110 and Hodgdon Lil'Gun. With Lil'Gun usually giving the most velocity at any given psi. Are these three powders any good for .500 S&W, or are there better choices that QL either doesn't have or I didn't notice cause they were further towards the bottom of the velocity list?

QL doesn't seem to account for crimp or primer when it calculates loads, there is something called shot start pressure, which can be manually entered, but the suggested pressure is either 1160 psi for lead handgun bullets or 2175 psi for jacketed handgun bullets. It does say to add 7200 psi to the start pressure for a bullet seated to touch rifling, but that shouldn't be necessary for a revolver right? If I wanted to account for crimp or primer differences how much psi would I add to the 1160/2175 psi start pressure? Or is the difference even enough to be worth worrying about? Is shot start pressure even the right figure to be messing with to account for the differences in pressure caused by crimp/primers?

QL seems to have a fairly limited selection of bullets for the .500-501 caliber, how exactly does one start creating loads for custom cast lead bullets that can be found from manufacturers like matts bullets, missouri bullet company, etc. Do you just buy some and develop loads based on known loads with similar bullet weights? Find other peoples load data on forums like this one? just wing it?

Also the press I am looking at purchasing is a Hornady LnL Classic kit, aside from dies (do these usually come with a way to taper/roll crimp? or do you have to buy that seperately?), shell holders, bullet puller of some sort, stuck case remover and a way to clean brass, is this a decent starter setup for .500 S&W? Is there anything else that kit doesn't come with that I absolutely need?

Thanks!
 
Your seating die has a built in crimp function. You can raise the die up and seat only, then raise the seat stem up and adjust the die to crimp, or you can set it up to seat and crimp in one go.

You won't need a stuck case remover for straight walled cartridges using carbide or nitride dies. It would be almost impossible to stick a case in one of these dies.

The only time a case could possibly get stuck is if using a die with a taper and you forgot to or didn't apply enough lube.

Quickload is a fun tool to play around with, but I've found that it struggles to give predictions that are even close to reality with straight walled stuff. Sometimes it is WAY off.

Get some load data from reputable sources, start low and work up.

H110/W296 is a great magnum straight wall powder. Lil Gun will produce even more velocity but it has been reported many, many times that it can ruin a revolver in short order. It burns so hot that it will flame cut the top strap and has been said to ruin the forcing cone quickly also.
 
mrawesome22-250 said:
You won't need a stuck case remover for straight walled cartridges using carbide or nitride dies. It would be almost impossible to stick a case in one of these dies.

The only time a case could possibly get stuck is if using a die with a taper and you forgot to or didn't apply enough lube.
Click to expand...
So its not possible for a case to get stuck when properly lubed?

mrawesome22-250 said:
H110/W296 is a great magnum straight wall powder. Lil Gun will produce even more velocity but it has been reported many, many times that it can ruin a revolver in short order. It burns so hot that it will flame cut the top strap and has been said to ruin the forcing cone quickly also.
Click to expand...
Alright thanks, I'll keep that in mind.

mrawesome22-250 said:
Quickload is a fun tool to play around with, but I've found that it struggles to give predictions that are even close to reality with straight walled stuff. Sometimes it is WAY off.
Click to expand...
Does it spit out inaccurate velocity, pressures, or all of the above?

mrawesome22-250 said:
Get some load data from reputable sources, start low and work up.
Click to expand...
Are the "One Book One Caliber" loadbooks considered reputable? AFAIK they are just collections of data taken from other sources.
 
Yep barn burner loads with Lil Gun will cut the topstrap. Has started to happen to me in as little as 20 rounds. The brass will be a bit hard to size with heavy loads so using some type of case lube even with carbide dies will be a great help. Asking the propellant manufacturers for data or checking their websites will get you safe data.
 
Not trying to dissuade you, but you’ve picked one heck of a cartridge to start your reloading career. I’m a little worried about:
watermonger said:
eventually I want to start loading some 60000+ psi loads so I can squeeze every last joule of muzzle energy from the cartridge that is safely possible.
Click to expand...

That just gives me pause, from someone who has not reloaded a single round—yet.

I don’t know if you have other guns/cartridges to choose from, but if you do, maybe consider something a little smaller.

Feel free to ignore my post. It’s just my opinion, but I am focused on safety.
 
drband said:
Not trying to dissuade you, but you’ve picked one heck of a cartridge to start your reloading career. I’m a little worried about:


That just gives me pause, from someone who has not reloaded a single round—yet.
Click to expand...
Eventually means well into the future, many hundreds/thousands of loads from now. Although If quickload isn't giving accurate pressure numbers then I'm not sure how I could actually safely reach those pressures while basically working blind... Questions for the future.

drband said:
I don’t know if you have other guns/cartridges to choose from, but if you do, maybe consider something a little smaller.
Click to expand...
.500 Is the only cartridge I really have a need/want of loading for, but I could be doing 9mm/40/10mm/223-556/7.62x39/308 since i have guns in those calibers, I'm just comfrotable buying factory ammo for those cartridges since it doesn't cost me 3$ a round like .500 smith does.

Edit: Does anyone have an opinions on the Hornady LnL Classic kit? Is there a better kit/setup for my money?
 
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drband said:
Not trying to dissuade you, but you’ve picked one heck of a cartridge to start your reloading career. I’m a little worried about:
Click to expand...

I got into reloading for one specific round as well. Some people get into reloading because it's a big round or something unusual and they don't want to pay $10,000 per round or it's not even made except by one manufacturer etc...

I know I did for my 45-70. It's morphed into me reloading for everything I own now. But a kaboom with a center fire .22 caliber or a .50 caliber really does the same damage if loaded improperly on the same percentage scale etc... The guns are meant to handle certain pressures and the resulting kaboom is all relative to the gun and the pressures it's meant to contain.
 
I load for the .500s little sister, the .460. Start simple and use a published manual. The Hornady book that should come with your kit is good. Lyman's is a good one too. Neither copies other info, they test and develop their own, as do most other powder manufacturer/bullet manufacturer that publishes manuals. Lee is the only manual that just copies other's recipes, but even that is tested and safe. Powder companies have free online manuals(Hodgdon, Alliant, Western etc.) as do some bullet companies(Nosler). Start with published loads(not Quickload) til you get familiar with reloading. Manuals give you recipes, but they also teach you how to properly reload and provide insight into what works and what doesn't. Like others have said, Lil' Gun may prematurely and excessively erode your forcing cone. Flame cutting on the top strap is self-limiting, but an eroded forcing cone sucks. As for running your loads balls to the walls. Most factory ammo and newer published recipes will keep pressure down below 60,000+ PSI. Most will keep pressure below 55,000 for ease of extraction. Unless you are going for large dangerous Game, there really is no need for anything more. You will find that most of the time your most accurate loads wil come long before max pressure. Accuracy will trump a few more FPS every time.
 
Asking for suggestions on reloading equipment will get you personal opinions (kinda like asking what kind of TP one should use). I have my preferences, but you will be confused enough as is.

My reply is more general new reloader suggestions. First get away from maximum load thinking from the start. You seem to be overly concerned (obsessing?) about maximum velocities, pressures, and which powder will give you the most; maximum pressures and velocities. Slow down. Wise reloading is to use book data and begin with suggested starting loads. No shame and no one is going to call you a wimp. Besides there are some very forgiving, less radical cartridges than the monster 500 S&W Magnum to learn/begin reloading.

If you don't have one yet, get a copy of The ABCs of Reloading. It'll tell you the hows, whys, rundowns of the equipment and components used. Before you buy any components, get a manual published by the manufacturer of the bullet you will use and find a load first, many fewer headaches looking for data and mismatched components that way. Get a "generic" manual like the Lyman 49th or 50th, both are good references (there is way more to a reloading manual then load data). I have mebbe 14 various reloading manuals and a half dozen reloading texts and the last on on my list is the Lee Manual. No, I'm not a Lee Hater just that Lee uses other's tested data and it can be sketchy and incomplete. I bought a couple "One Cartridge" pamphlets but haven't even looked at them for many years. They are just reprints of other manuals' data, photo copies, and I had no idea how old the reprinted data was.

I don't reload or shoot a 500 Magnum so I cannot give any specific suggestions. My "T-Rex Killer" 44 Magnums are as close as I come, but I worked these up after 15 years of experience reloading the cartridge (300 gr. cast lead ingot over near max. loads of WC 820)...

Go slow. Double check everything. Most important, have fun...
 
First thing I’d say is welcome to reloading . It’s a great hobby and you’ll likely have quite a bit of fun doing it .

Second , I’d say as a new reloader I’d stay away from quickloads . There is no reason to be using that program as a new reloader. Powder and bullet manufacturer data is more then enough to start out making safe mild loads which is all you want to do right now . I agree quickloads can be wildly off at times . Reason being is it’s a modeling program . You’ve heard of these , we all have . You know the types of programs that predict global warming or how many covid deaths we’ll have in the next two weeks . See where I’m going with this , modeling programs are only as good as the data you put in them . It’s why they are so wrong so often .

Love those guys that say ( not quickloads specific ) all I needed to do was tweek a few numbers and the results came out right on point ??? Err wait what ???? So you made up some stuff and entered it into the program untill the results were what you wanted . And that makes the results accurate how ? Kinda like for the last 20yrs we’ve been 10yrs away from the world ending in a climate catastrophe .

Get the Lymans 50th reloading manual before your other stuff comes and start reading . That will answer most of your questions and generate twice as many more , you can come back and ask about all those new ones

Stay safe
MG
 
Take your time approaching the max loads. If you go looking for death's door, you will find it.
I have no experience with your press, but if I were starting to load and primarily loading straight walled cartridges, I would go progressive. I like the blue ones.
All the best.
 
Download the “Reloading Assistant” app. It lets you select your cartridge and then it pulls published data from all of the manufacturers websites. It’s as easy or easier than using a book to find a load. It’s about the only thing I use anymore.

As far as squeezing pressure out of a cartridge to get maximum velocity, you might want to reconsider. There is a very fine line between what you can control and what you can’t. It doesn’t matter if your hand cannon is making 7 trillion joules of energy if you can’t put it on the target, but cut that down to 7 joules and you land your hit every time exactly where you want it.
 
A lot of good suggestions above. In fact, most if not all are VERY good suggestions!

This may be a long post, but I hope you will read it.

I took the plunge into reloading two years ago. I started with the Hornady LnL Classic kit. It works and all you need to add is dies, shell holder and components. The book is good but only lists Hornady bullets. Since starting I have found some of the kit components lacking, and have since upgraded and added a few things. More on that later.

Next is the part most don't want to hear. Safety. I'll say it again, SAFETY! This needs to be first on your checklist for reloading. I am not against taking risks for rewards, BUT you will be making small explosives that you will be holding in your hand within arms reach of your face. Start low and start slow, and work your way up. I used to race motorcycles, and 150 mph+ was not uncommon for me, with 170 mph+ on a few occasions. BUT I didn't start there, I worked my way up.

I don't reload for the 500 S&W, although I have shot it and have recently started loading for the 480 Ruger. I didn't start there, but if that's what you choose to start with, then be safe and have fun. Again, start low and work up. Read a few books and get a handle on making usable, shootable ammo, and then start branching out as you learn. I've learned a lot in two years, and have made both crappy and very good accurate ammo. I've also learned that I have a lot more to learn about reloading. Don't try to make the most Joule's of energy right from the start.

Back to the Hornady kit. I will start by saying I haven't used any other press, so I can't compare X to Y. I do like the press. I can get within .001~.002" coal variation on my pistol rounds (I don't load rifle) with this press. I do get very good reloads now (I didn't at first), and I have learned how to make them so they shoot very accurately in MY guns, with the appropriate load workups. I start with minimum book loads and work my way up to what I feel is comfortable AND SAFE! Some of my loads are low, some are at or near max, but I always start at the bottom and work up! I also like the powder measure. It throws charges within 0.1 grains very consistently. I like the book (Hornady's 10th edition) that came with my kit. A lot of very useful information in the front of the book. Read it. Read it again! Then buy another book and read it twice. I also use the "One Caliber One Book" but always verify the data with other sources. More is better. I currently have six or seven books, maybe more. It can be confusing, but you will get the gist after awhile.

What I found that I didn't like was the electronic scale. Always seemed to drift, even with new batteries. The plastic funnel always seemed to build up a static charge. The powder measure only has a rifle rotor, a pistol rotor is needed if using small charges for pistols such as 45acp or 9mm.

The hand primer is ok, as is the trickler, loading block and chamfer/deburr tool. They work. But the loading block is a bit cramped, and the chamfer/deburr tool gets tiresome. The trickler works well, but is very light (easy to move or tip over). I used the hand primer a few times, but now prime on the press due to my arthritus. I like the Hornady One Shot lube, but that seems to be a matter of preference. The bushings work, but you will need more as you expand to other calibers. Plan on buying some if you decide to reload for different guns/cartridges.

As for dies, I have found that I like the RCBS die sets, along with a Hornady seater die. I use the Hornady die to seat and the RCBS to crimp separately, as it works for me. Some people seat and crimp at the same time, and it works for them. You will have to find out what works best for you. Other dies would work just as well, from Lee to Redding, once you learn how to use them.

I hope I didn't sound like a safety nanny with this post. I just want you to know what you are getting into, and to stay safe!

chris
 
No, only the Lee die sets come with a shell holder. Guess I am a slow at typing. Also if you buy fired brass the old original 500 brass used Magnum pistol primers and the newer brass use rifle primers and have an "R" on the headstamp. They are different heights so not interchangeable. I have a bunch of both.
 
Do I need a seperate crimp die for the .500 S&W or will RCBS/Lee/Hornady/etc come with one? I do plan to shoot cast bullets and I would prefer not having to deal with bullets jumping crimp and locking my gun up.
 
watermonger said:
Do I need a seperate crimp die for the .500 S&W or will RCBS/Lee/Hornady/etc come with one? I do plan to shoot cast bullets and I would prefer not having to deal with bullets jumping crimp and locking my gun up.
Click to expand...
I know specifically that RCBS has Cowboy die sets that are specifically tailored for reloading lead. They may have one in your caliber I'm not sure
 
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