New to reloading, help advise

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Ughh

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Hey I'm completely new to reloading. How should I start?

I've been looking at some of those reloading kits that has all the stuff and manual. Are those any good?

Help me get into this stuff.

Thanks
 
Ughh, first let me welcome you to the wonderful world of reloading. It's a great hobby to get into, and in the end you will save money reloading your own ammunition.

Since this is your first time reloading, I would have to suggest that you start off with a single stage press. Not alot of working parts, and easy to use. There are alot of them out there, I have an RCBS partner press that I started off with, came with Speer reloading manual (very good book, not only gives you loads but tells the history of the loads), and the scales that it comes with are outstanding.

The only things that you will need with this equipment though is a good powder trickler, mine is RCBS, but there are alot of them out there, so take a look around, all so a powder dispenser. I use a Lee Perfect Powder Measure, again, lots of them out there, so take your time to look around and see what would fit your needs the best.

Dies, pistol dies and rifle dies, the best I have found out there are Lee Dies. They aren't the most expensive things out on the market, and all of them that I have work great. I have not used alot of other companies dies, maybe there are some out there that are better then Lee, but they are what I use, and like I said, I think they work great, so why change something that is working for me. In pistol dies, go for the carbide dies, no lube needed, but I am still trying to find some rifle dies that are of a carbide nature.

I apologize, I know there is alot more to reloading out there I can't think of alot of it right now. I'm sitting here in Iraq waiting to get back to states, if I had my equipment in front of me I could probably give you more tips, but as they come to me I will check back to this thread and add alittle more input to it.
 
sorry, meant to add this in, here are some links from midwayusa to check out, this will give you an idea of some of the items I was talking about.

Press Kit : http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=140616

Powder Dispenser : http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=540522

Powder Trickler : http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=317787

I don't know what caliber your going to be reloading, so here are some examples of the reloading dies, just grabbed the 45 ACP for pistol and .223 REM of rifle

Pistol Dies : http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=661032

Rifle Dies : http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=776391

Like I stated before, I am only giving you examples of this equipment, there are some other very good companies out there that also make reloading equipment, so shop around, find what you like and what serves your purpose.
 
Read this. It will give you a good understanding of what is needed to reload as far as equipment and componets.

http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=238214

The next thing is get you one or two reloading manuals like Lyman #49 and Hornady #7. Read them, they will tell you how to reload, plus give you your reloading data. I am sure you will have questions so just ask them here. We will help.

What calibers are you interested in reloading. A straight walled revolver round like 38 Special or 357 Magnum would be the easiest to learn at first.
 
The best place to start is read the stickies here and every book you can get your hands on. After you've done that, then it will be time to look for equipment. Loading really isn't very hard if you simply follow the rules. But it is best to know what you are going to load, and how many, before you spend a bunch of money on equipment.
 
How many times do you guys re-use your casings?

Where do you guys get your brass casings and bullets from?

Does it have to be bras??
 
ughh--for your latest questions;

1. It depends. Some of my 10mm cases have split after 4-5 reloads. OTOH, I have some .45ACP cases that have probably been reloaded at least 75 times. Generally, it depends on how powerful the reload recipe is.

2. Some of my brass was bought new, as in ammunition. Others, were bought as used as "once fired" brass, such as this one. Even more was bought new--Starline brand--direct from Starline or other (online) suppliers such as Graf's, Midway, or Midsouth. Bullets are bought from these suppliers or other (online) advertising suppliers. I buy cast lead bullets from Tru-Cast, Chey Cast, and others; Missouri Bullets will probably become my favored supplier once I need to order more.

3. Yes, it has to be brass. If you've read something about reusing the steel cases found in 7.62x39, forgeddaboutit.

Read the stickies, and buy a copy of The ABCs of Reloading to pick up some more knowledge.

Jim H.
 
The ABCs of Reloading

That's where you need to start. It will answer all the questions you just asked plus more. Most public libraries will have on the shelves. I'd do the reading before buying anything.
 
Read first - The ABCs of Reloading is an excellent start. I recommend a cast iron "O" frame single stage press to start with. I happen to have two RCBS single stage presses but if I was buying new today, I'd buy a Lee Classic Cast Press. Over the years, I've bought RCBS, Pacific and C&H dies but the last 7 die sets I've bought have all been Lee.
 
ughh--for your latest questions;


Read the stickies, and buy a copy of The ABCs of Reloading to pick up some more knowledge.

Jim H.

I bought Speers reloading manual no. 14 just this morning. Haven't started reading it yet.

1. It depends. Some of my 10mm cases have split after 4-5 reloads. OTOH, I have some .45ACP cases that have probably been reloaded at least 75 times. Generally, it depends on how powerful the reload recipe is.

What?? You've really gone up to 50++ times on reusing .45acp brass? :what:

Nice, I didn't know that we could re-use so many times

What about rifle brass, how many times do you guys re-use those?
Or is the general rule:
Just re-use what ever brass until you start seeing damage on the cases?
 
Go to library, get a copy of Townsend Whelen's Why Not Load Your Own and read it.

Find a copy of NRA Illustrated Reloading Guide and read it.

Then reread all the posts again.
 
Regardng rifle brass, depends on how hot the load is. .220 Swift you get 2 or 3, maybe 4 if you are lucky. This is a HOT load. Loading 30-30 or 30.06 you get more since it is a milder load (lower pressure). Just depends on the round and how fast you want to push it, within reasonable loading limits. This is where the various manuals come in. When you start, go slow, be careful and pay attention to everything. Check around your local area and see if you can find someone to guide you in the process. Experience helps a lot.
 
I bought Speers reloading manual no. 14 just this morning. Haven't started reading it yet.



What?? You've really gone up to 50++ times on reusing .45acp brass? :what:

Nice, I didn't know that we could re-use so many times

What about rifle brass, how many times do you guys re-use those?
Or is the general rule:
Just re-use what ever brass until you start seeing damage on the cases?
38 Special cases can be reloaded 100+ times.
 
I'd been thinking about getting into reloading for a while, because at my "home" shooting range (Gateway, in Jax, FL) you had to walk through the reloading supplies to get to the front counter where you could buy complete ammo. Every time I did that I did the mental math about the difference in prices, but the initial expense is pretty steep if you are poor. Worse, the cost of making a mistake while reloading can be more than you want to pay (or maybe even more than God is willing to let you pay, if things go REALLY wrong), so I didn't want to start without a mentor.
I saw an ad on the bulletin board from a guy I knew, who was selling his (used) Dillon 550B plus extras. I already knew that parts wouldn't be a problem, because Gateway also sold _new_ 550Bs and various dies, kits, and parts, so I tracked him down and bought it from him on the condition that he showed me how to use it, first. I think I visited his home three times, paying him and taking the press home with me the 3rd time along with various parts, dies, a powder balance, and a shaker.

The reason he sold it? He wasn't really interested in reloading for pistol, and preferred to use a single-stage rig for his hunting cartridges. Since I just wanted to shoot more 9mm, .45, and 38 spl for less money, his progressive press was no good to him but perfect for me. He was a professional machinist, and whenever something had broken he had made his own replacement parts. While the 550B is a solid machine (I would recommend it as a first press to anyone who is mechanically inclined, and if you aren't you shouldn't be reloading anyway), everything ever built will occasionally need maintenance or repairs. Dillon has been very good to me whenever I needed help, but I invariably found that his parts were better thought-out and worked better than the originals.

The bottom line is that I know I'm a genius, but the rest of the universe doesn't always agree. Getting someone who knew what they were doing to show me how to do it safely was far more valuable than the difference I paid between new and used prices. (Thanks, Bruce!)
If you can look over someone else's shoulder a few times before you start messing with propellant and primers, it may make a big difference in how many birthdays you get have, and how many of those you get, that you get to enjoy.
 
Wait, GarandNewby, are you saying presses and reloading kits are caliber specific?

So if a progressive or single stage press is to be a handgun reloader, then it's not capable of rifle cartridges? Or are most presses/reloading kits these days multi-caliber from handguns to rifles? I'm confused :confused:
 
I apologize if I was unclear. Single-stage presses do one thing: deprime, size, prime, seat, or crimp. You set it up to deprime all your cases, then set it up differently to size them all, etc. Multi-stage or "progressive" presses have multiple stages built in, so while one die is sizing and depriming one case, another is adding powder to another case, etc. Any press will do any caliber, because they all accept replaceable dies. You will need a separate set of dies for each caliber you want to reload.
Some simpler presses require you to re-adjust the dies each time you move them. Others have a system to remember where they were. My Dillon 550B has a removable base that holds the dies, so once my 9mm dies are "just so" I can swap the base out with another set up for .45, then when I want I can put the 9mm back in and go back to that.
 
Pistol cases are (in relation to rifle cases) short and sturdy. I never bother to lube my pistol cases because I have the leverage to force the sizing die over them. Rifle cases, however, may collapse if you don't lube them, since they are much longer and take more force to size.
Next, a minor variance that puts your pistol bullets an inch off aimpoint at 25 yards is no big deal. You are still in the bulleye. However, that same variance in a rifle bullet means that you completely missed a moose at 300 yards.
Because of the requirement for lube, the added force required at each stage for rifle cases, and the added care required for long-range accuracy, the common wisdom seems to be you use your progressive press to crank out hundreds of pistol rounds, but use your single-stage to carefully create 20 identical rifle rounds, use 10 of them to sight-in your rifle, and go hunting with the other 10.
Of course some people use a progressive for rifle, and others use a single-stage for pistol. Which way is "correct"? That is a religious argument, where the various sides all know they are right and all the others are damned for heresy.
 
Does it have to be bras??

It needs to be either brass or nickel plated brass. Like quoted some brass last longer than others. I find that brass cases seem to last the longest compated to nickel plated cases. But the nickel is prettier.
 
GarandNewby, I've never heard of a rifle case collapsing during resizing, I've never seen it done or have done this myself, sounds kind of strange. I do not mean this offensively nor do I question your reloading abilities, I've been reloading for years, I'm just saying that I have never seen or heard of this happening, one would wonder if this did happen was it because of no case lube or maybe on part of the equipment, particularly the dies maybe, that would cause a case to collapse.

Ughh, the reason why you would want to use case lube in steel dies is because, and this is if I can remember this correctly, my dad explained this to me years ago, is because when you force the case up into the resizing/decapper die, you have the metal case rubbing against metal trying to reform the case if it has any bulges or dents in the case. There are some instances where the case might fit so tight that if you don't have any case lube on the case you are reloading, there is the chance that the case will get stuck in the reloading die. I have also had it explained to me that it also helps to protect the die from getting scratched up on the inside from "burrs" on the mouth of the case.

Like I had explained in my last post, if you are reloading pistol, get you a good set of carbide reloading dies, don't know if they have a special coating or if it is the material that they use (never got a clear answer on that one), but you don't need to use lube when working with carbide dies. But I have not found rifle reloading dies that will work without case lube. So if you are planning on reloading rifle, get some case lube, fairly inexpensive, but just keep in mind not to over-do it with the lube, a little bit goes a long way.

Do you need a different press for all calibers, no, the press that I posted to you in my last post is for reloading rifle and pistol, what you will need are reloading dies that will fit the thread of the reloading press, and I say this because I have been told (and if I am wrong someone please correct me) that RCBS dies won't work in a Dillion press (something about the reloading die wouldn't fit the threads right). The only time you would need to change presses is if you are going reload shot shell, or reloading 50 BMG. So if you are planning rifle or pistol, one press is all you need.

As far as single stage vs. progressive, in a progressive press, this press is good for pumping out a lot of ammo in a short amount of time, I have not seen a powder dispenser yet that has thrown the same exact charge twice in a row, so now you gotta think, if you are running through doing up a bunch of rounds, one round might be right on, might be anywhere from + - .01 gr to + - .1 grain, and you don't get the chance to check because the rounds are being assembled like on a assembly line without a stop in process. With a single stage press after you "bell" the mouth of the cartridge to accept the bullet, the process stops there, now you can use a powder scale to measure out the amount of powder that you want to use, and you can use the powder trickler to "creep" up to the amount of powder that you want. IMHO, if you want plinking rounds, go progressive, if you want precise loads, go single stage.

What makes the shot count is finding what the firearm likes, what shoots accurately, then do it again, consistency. A lot of competitor shooters that I know say that that is what they are looking for, they know that a bullet weighing X amount of weight, with a powder charge of Y amount, using primer A and brass cartridge B, is going to give them the shot that they are looking for, so they make sure that X, Y, A, and B are always the same every time. So they wouldn't want to speed up the process with a progressive press, they want to slow it down, weight everything to make sure that what they have is what they have, the complete the finished product.

On another note, if you are looking for a little more speed, with a degree of accuracy, look into a turret style press, you can mount all your dies and as you need them, just turn the turret. In my earlier post I suggested a single stage because you are new to reloading, and since there are less moving parts with a single stage that may be what you would want to look into for your first press, but if you have someone there to mentor you, either family or friends, then check out the turret style presses as well.

THR, if I have told Ughh anything that is incorrect or you have further insight into what I have told this individual please respond, I don't know why but I have been keeping an eye on this thread since it started, I think it is because I would like to hear about this individual succeeding in his reloading endeavor, but as I have stated, if I have told him anything incorrect please post, it could also be a valuable learning experience for myself.
 
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Original question

Ughh as to you first question.....yes the kits are a good way to start. They contain all the basics you need except for the components. This is how I started in the early 90's with a kit from rcbs with a partner press. It broke last year and they replaced it for me free since it had a life time warranty.

As you reload you'll want to acquire more equipment like a dial caliper and other gadgets that will help.

Get more manuals for comparison and info and basically read all you can about your new hobby. I get Handloader magazine and it always has info and hints.

The real beauty of handloading is not having to run up to the sporting goods store and having to settle at the last minute for what they happen to have left on the shelf in your caliber. Plus you'll be shooting more as you experiment with your loads and become a better shot also.

You will SAVE MONEY......

I've also found that other reloaders are more than willing to talk to you about your new hobby and some of them can impart some really valuable knowledge that you will appreciate and use.

Have fun.
 
One more thing I forgot to say......stock up on stuff when you can. that way you can shoot for years without having to worry.

Primers are in short supply right now and difficult to always find. In the past few years whenever I went in to a sporting goods store I would buy a box of primers of every type I use whether I needed them or not. I've also done this with powder. I now have a few thousand primers and plenty of powder.

Good luck.....
 
Mr. Army offers some very good equipment info and comments, save ONE! ;)

The only decent commercial powder trickler is the Redding, IMHO. I got one of them and gave my RCBS away.
 
army_husbandky, I have never done any rifle reloading. I apologize if that was not clear. I am competent with my Dillon 550B for pistol rounds, just thinking about trying it with 30-06. Thus, I have never collapsed a rifle case.
However, speaking as a retired professional heavy machinery mechanic, that is the usual result of too much compressive force on a cylinder: it collapses. With a single-stage press, you can easily gauge how much force you are putting on THIS case, and after you have done it 3 or 4 times you know if you are giving the press too much force and there is a problem. With a progressive press, you are providing all the force needed to perform each step, all at once, on several different cases, so it is more difficult to judge if something is wrong with any one stage.
 
GarandNewby, my apologies, you are correct, I read your post incorrectly. What you have put here makes more since. Also, as I said before I was not questioning your reloading abilities, I myself have reloaded pistol rounds for years, getting everything I need together right now to finally move on to reloading rifle rounds (223 REM). But like I said, you are correct, and my apologies for the misunderstanding from your last post.
 
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