New to reloading the 10mm . . .couple of questions.

Status
Not open for further replies.

tbird911

Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2006
Messages
5
Hi All,

I just bought a Dan Wesson Razorback 10mm (m1911 frame) and want to get into reloading.

Just ordered my reloading equipment and had a couple of questions:

I have the following inbound:

1000 pieces of 10mm brass from starline
100 lasercast bullets (180gr)
100 magtech bullets (180 gr) full metal jacket
2 lbs AA No.9 powder

What are the best primers ?Winchester Large Pistol or Federal Large Pistol?

I have tried looking up loads based on my inbound stuff. Can anyone suggest a nice accurate load for each of the bullets listed above with my configuration?

Thanks in advance.

This will all be running on a Lee Turret kit from Kempfs.
 
The Winchester large pistol primers I have say "For Magnum and Standard Pistol loads", so that tells me they might be hotter and give you better ignition. I have always used whatever primers were cheapest or in stock at the time of need and have never had any problems with any primers I have used, Federal, CCI or Winchester.
 
a lighter load I developed for a 6" 10mm

some years ago consisted of

1. Starline Brass
2. Winchester Large Primers
3. 4.8 gr of 231, and
4. Bull-X 200 gr. LTC.

This shot 1.5" groups at 50' (handheld) from a SA 1911 with the Peters Stahl 6" top end--best with a non-vented barrel. The typical velocity was about 920 FPS, and a very low SD.

I'm about to try that load in an EAA Witness--just got a 10mm top end for that frame, and we'll see how it works in a shorter barrel.

Jim H.
 
I use mag pistol primers on mine and power pistol works well for me. I would like to suggest you toss the laser cast lead bullets though. At 10mm veloctities you will lead up your barrel somthing fierce. Lead is good for anything under 1000 fps, over that and cleaning becomes a pain.
 
Winchester primers will do you fine for the powder and caliber. Don't give up on the Lazer Cast bullets. I've got a favorite load for my 10mm pistols with a Saeco 205 grain cast bullet at 1176 fps that is deadly accurate and gives me no leading in any of my 10's. I'm using Winchester 571 powder, also known as HS-7, in my loads. My use of AA #9 has been confined to 357 Sig, where it has excelled.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
I use Winchester primers for my G20 and DE with AA5, Universal Clays, or Blue Dot. AA9 should be great.

Not every load has to be able to kill elephants. I'd keep them mid-range and get settled in.
 
+1 on leading in a 10mm - be very aware of what you are doing. I got a little skippy with my velocities and learned a very hard lesson. Don't get me wrong, plain lead in a 10mm is fun, but as redneck2 suggested, midrange loads are the best approach.
 
Once you get much above 1000 fps cast lead bullets can be a problem, with swagged lead bullets above 800fps is a problem.

IMHO if you want to shoot lead bullets in your 10mm, get a .40S&W barrel for it and you can pick up all the brass you'll need for free off the ground at most ranges.

--wally.
 
AA#9 and Winchester Large Pistol Primers were made for each other.

Well, not really.

But they are a perfect match.

I use them in my 10mm handloads with AA#7.
 
Laser Cast bullets and leading

I have a lot of experience with Laser cast bullets as well as my own cast bullets with various alloys.

Saying that the Laser cast bullets will lead over 1000 fps is BS. Sorry, just the truth. Here is why:

The alloy used for the Laser cast bullets is quite hard (by cast bullet standards) and they are of consistent dimension/quality, so with the higher pressures generated by the 10mm when loading for velocities such as 1,200 fps, the bullets obturate (the base expands under pressure to fill the rifling) nicely and this prevents the gas cutting that many experience with cast bullets.

Cast bullets are much more "complicated" than jacketed bullets in that they vary in composition/hardness and also in design (gas check vs plain base) and finally, the lube used on them. Many more variables than jacketed pills.

Softer alloys are great for standard velocity handgun loads - they obturate and grip the rifling and give good accuracy. However, when they are pushed too fast, these softer bullets will "smear" the lead as the lube can't prevent it.

The harder alloys are great for higher pressure/higher velocity loads but interestingly (and this is where the myth that they are "no good" comes from) they can lead at lower velocities because the pressure isn't great enough to cause them to obturate and this leaves room for the gas to jet around the base and along the sides of the bullet as it exits the barrel - melting the alloy and causing leading.

So, you just need to know which cast bullets/alloys to use for which loads.

These "rules" are not hard and fast - for example, I've used 45 caliber RNFP bullets from Oregon Trail for years loaded at 800 fps with no leading and excellent accuracy. They fit the bores of my Ruger Vaqueros tightly and don't allow gas cutting. So, until you shoot them, you can't be sure how they will behave - unless you have the equipment to measure your gun's bores accuratly.

Finally, if you want the best accuracy from cast bullets at higher velocities, I recommend using a gas-check design. The gas check is a little cup that fits over the base of the bullet - made of copper. It prevents gas blow-by and therefore, leading. Hard cast bullets of this type offered commercially are not cheap and these are usually employed for hunting as they are accurate and give straight-line, through and through penetration on game.

I've cast my own .314", 200 grain bullets for my Lee SMLE's for years using a gas check design mould from Lyman - lube them with Lee Liquid Alox and load them to 2000 fps. They give better accuracy in my SMLE's than any jacketed bullet load with zero leading. Ditto for .310" 200 grain gas check bullets for my 30-40 and 30-06 rifles.

Shooting myths abound....
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top