New to reloading

Status
Not open for further replies.

drifter2be

Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2011
Messages
8
Location
Mesa, AZ
So, last weekend a friend and I scored an amazing deal on some reloading equipment, we each ended up with a rockchucker, powder measure, a LOT of dies, old brass, bullets and powders for a price that felt like we were stealing it. So I basically got dragged from considering reloading to the point where I already have a lot of stuff, so I might as well give it a shot and see if I enjoy it.

I plan on reloading 9x19 and .223 as those are the two calibers aside from .22lr that I shoot right now. I figure I can list what I have and some of the more knowledgeable members here can steer me toward what I still need to get

Rockchucker press
RCBS die sets for 9mm and 223 with shell holders
Powder measure
powder trickler
bullet puller
digital caliper
Forster case trimmer (need .224 pilot)

Powders, primers and etc. aside, what else am I missing for a decent beginning reloader's setup?

I know I need a priming tool and a powder scale. What is the bare minimum to get me started that I still need?

I have a few older manuals but I know I need to go out and get something printed within the last 10 years.

Thanks in advance.
 
If you want to keep the prices down you can use the primer arm that should be on your press. If you want a had primer I really like the RCBS hand primer although for less money the Lee Auto-Primer XR works well too.

Electronic scales can work well but not as well as manual beam scales. The RCBS 505 is a very good balance beam scale.

IMO Lyman's 49th edition manual is a great place to start. It's only a year or just a little more old and it's more inclusive than most other manuals.

Welcome to the forum and reloading...
 
Ihave to differ on the scale. I would rather have a $2 scale then the beam scale.
 
I don't find beam scales hard to zero. I have a RCBS 505 and all you have to do is turn a disc with your finger that either raises or lowers the scale, thus zeroing the beam. I dont have an electronic scale but from what I've read people say you should also have a beam scale just to double check the electronic one. Not a bad idea in my opinion.
 
drifter2be, welcome to THR!

When I was stationed at March AFB, we would get kicked off base whenever President Reagan would fly Air Force One into the base and support staff needed lodging. Wow, memories ... and good times! :D


drifter2be said:
I was leaning toward an electric is because I know beam scales can be a bit of a pain to zero.
Not necessarily so. I keep my Ohaus 10-10 beam scale on top of the drawer cabinet on the reloading bench covered and it occasionally just takes slight vertical adjustment on the threaded foot rest to zero.

I have used RCBS 5-0-5 (same as Ohaus 5-0-5) and Dillon Eliminator beam scales and they are easy to zero also. Although I have not used the Lyman Pro 500 beam scale, it is more affordable at $57.

As to digital scales, while above mentioned beam scales provide consistent accuracy to .1 grain, most complain digital scales are slow to warm up and depending on model, drift or don't maintain zero. I use an older FA DS model sold by MidwayUSA that I have recommended to new reloaders for convenience/speed but always suggest concurrent use with a beam scale for accuracy verification (gravity is fairly consistent for most parts of the earth and elevations. :D). I usually use the digital scale for faster weighing of resized/trimmed rifle cases and bullets for sorting. Also, if the digital scale starts to act weird, it may be due to low battery so keep a spare handy (been there and pulled some hair out trying to figure out :D).

Another key point to note for hot/cold temperature Hemet area is that digital scales are sensitive to temperature and you must stay within the manufacturer's specified operating temperature parameters (mine specifies 15C - 35C/59F - 95F). I keep and use my digital scale indoors. Some of the reloaders I shoot with who kept their digital scales in the garage have experienced inconsistent readings - When they kept/used their digital scales indoors, they got more consistent readings.


Regardless of the scale used, I highly recommend the use of check weights so you can verify the powder charge range you would use for pistol/rifle loads - http://www.midwayusa.com/product/212586/lyman-shooters-weight-check-set
 
Last edited:
Having gone through a few electronic ones, I use my RCBS 5-10 scale. Not hard to zero, adjust the wheel height on the end - it is less sensitive to things like fluorescent light and vibrations
 
Don't forget loading blocks. I have a few that are caliber specific, but the universal ones work okay. They're a great way to keep track and keep organized.

If you're going to use case lube for rifles I'd go with imperial sizing wax.

Check weights like BDS mentioned.

I use both an electronic scale (and dispenser) and a beam scale. Both are accurate. I suffer less drift now that I load indoors, but, it is very sensitive. I generally have to shut off the vents and ceiling fan. The RCBS 5-0-5 is very easy to zero and is accurate. Both have advantages, but if I could only keep one it would be the beam scale.
 
Any particular reason why? The reason I was leaning toward an electric is because I know beam scales can be a bit of a pain to zero.
Electronic scales are not as accurate as beam scales, especially the cheap electronic scales. They never seem to hold zero. The RCBS 5-0-5 scale is not that expensive, easy to zero and works well every time.

Even if you decide to use an electronic scale you will want to have a beam scale around to verify the numbers you get from the electronic scale. BIG hint, buy a good set of check weights too...
 
Mr. 2be -
Welcome to THR and reloading.


The reason I was leaning toward an electric is because I know beam scales can be a bit of a pain to zero.

I own both types of scales and can tell you that generally you'll have to spend about $200 to get an electronic scale that is trustworthy under all conditions, whereas good balance beam scales start at about $70. Oh there are 1 or 2 exceptions, and there are lots of new electronic scales (less than 6 months old) that haven't given any trouble yet. But if you want to buy an inexpensive scale for the long haul, then you need a balance beam.

The stickies at the top of the forum page can tell you all you need to know to fill out your "kit".

Ask lots of questions.
 
I have a 5-0-5 that I keep around just to remind me how bad it was. I also had a 10-10 I was lucky enough to be able to get my money back out of. The 10-10 was far better then the 5-0-5 but still not as fast or accurate as a $3 electronic from eBay. The scale I use now does cost $200 but it is also a dispenser. What is important is that you get the same reading every time & this didn't happen with the 5-0-5 or 10-10. they never caused me to blow up a gun but it bothered me that I could trickle up a charge dump it then put it back & it was different.
 
I'm sorry but there is no way a $3 electronic scale is as accurate as a 5-0-5 and there's probably nothing available that's more accurate than a Ohaus 10-10 scale. No disrespect meant but if your cheap electronic scale is more accurate than both your bean scales, especially the Ohaus 10-10 scale, you're doing something wrong.

This is my last word in this thread because it will probably go downhill from here.
 
Let me see level the scale, zero set measurement, make sure there is no vibration or draft, & it should be eye level.

Not real complex. If you trickle it up until it shows balanced take the charge away then put it back & it shows it is heaver then the counter it isn't consistent.
 
kingmt, did you try cleaning the free-floating agate stones? If there's gunk/debri around/under the stones and they can't freely line up with the triangle knife edge, you may get inconsistent re-zero. Also, your triangle knife edge may had damage/rust?

My Ohaus 10-10 re-zero consistently after I place the empty powder pan back on the holder (but I make sure I hold my mouth open precisely the same each time I zero ... :neener: ... just kidding!).

attachment.php
 

Attachments

  • RCBS 10-10.jpg
    RCBS 10-10.jpg
    29.8 KB · Views: 78
Last edited:
I didn't do anything with the 10-10 except wipe it down to see if it worked better. The 5-0-5 RCBS sent new powder tray, posie(I know that is spelled wrong), & counter weights. If I would have keep calling them I almost had another scale.
 
Seems to me that if you need a beam scale to check the accuracy of the electronic scale, then a beam scale would be all you really need in the first place. Ok, I may be a little biased, since I've been loading with a beam scale for near 40 years or so. Never saw the need to even try one of them new-fangled electronic ones. Another nice thing about the beam scale is that gravity doesn't require batteries, electronic scales do.
Just my two cents.
 
Beam scales might be fiddly for some with heavy hands. They are inherently accurate, however. Pretty hard to fool gravity that way, but a cheap electronic load cell....no thanks. Fine for weighing bullets though.

Although I have not used the Lyman Pro 500 beam scale, it is more affordable at $57.
I have that one, after tiring of the Lee scale(works fine, but too frustrating) I picked it up. It is as good as any double poise beam. A little light in the base but a few ounces of shot fixed that up. I have an old Lyman M5 I picked up recently, and they agree.

I think a beam is a beam, as long as it is clean and free moving.
 
Last edited:
I remember when fuel injection was talked about like this. You guys that want to set with your trucks & play with the chock for 10 minutes on a cold morning can have the carbs. I like my electrics. I'll have my round loaded by the time you pick up your trickler.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top