Wish I had talked to you first!
You can put a stop to this.
Disassemble the revolver. Once you have the trigger group removed, the pawl can be easily removed by carefully sliding it to the side, off the pivot on which it turns. Now get a magnifying glass and look at it very closely. Does it look "rough", like it was just cut out of a piece of steel? It should look polished and have slightly radiused leading and tailing edges. If it's very rough, take a fingernail board and carefully give it a light dressing. Inspect frequently, and do not change the geometry - just SMOOTH what is there. Once that is looking about as good as you can get it with the fingernail board, take your dremmel and the POLISH WHEEL and a bit of that red rouge polish stuff. Buff it up nicely where ever it would contact the cylinder. DO NOT USE ANY SANDING OR ABRASIVE DISKS - THIS WILL REMOVE TOO MUCH METAL. USE ONLY THE BUFFING WHEEL. Clean it thoroughly to remove any traces of abrasive, oil lightly, wipe with dry cloth, and reinstall. If you want, you can use the buffing wheel to lightly ease the cylinder drag mark if you've already gotten a good one going. No promises. Too much polishing of the cylinder will look out of place, you'll end up having to do the whole thing to make it look right. If you're not a competent touch-up artist who trusts your own good judgement, you might want to just leave a good honest drag mark as-is. Your call.
Ruger GP's are notorious for this. I polished mine up on day one and I still, hundereds of rounds later (probably close to 1500), do not have a bad drag mark. A friend of mine recently got one and I helped her the same way. Hers was not bad, it honestly only required a bit of buffing. I guess 20% of all guns are made on a Monday, hmm?