Newbie question on Rem 1858 adjustable rear sight

[akaardvark]

Hello everyone. As the title says, I'm a newbie to BP, just bought a Pietta 1858 Target model. I'm already addicted to the fun of shooting this thing (feels like I'm in an episode of Bonanza ) and am sure I won't sleep till I have an Colt copy, Le Mat and others.

On the adjustable sight, it's very obvious even to me how the windage adjustment works and I got it dialed in. Embarassingly though, I couldn't figure out how the elevation adjustment works -- and I'm shooting about 6 inches high at 25 yards -- and didn't see anything about it in the generic Pietta manual that came with it. Is it just a matter of loosening and tightening the small screw on top of the rear sight assembly, or is the larger screw somewhow involved? Looseing the little screw to the point where it felt about to fall out did not get me on target.

While I have the attention of the experts, let me also ask-- with a pre-lubed wad between ball and powder and the ball firmly seated, I'm okay without filling the remainder of each chamber with Crisco, correct? Manual says to do it, but I've read in some places it's not necessary. If I don't use Crisco, are there any additional steps I need to take to avoid chainfires?

Thanks for any help in advance!

 

[mykeal]

I'm not familiar with the Remington adjustable sight, so I can't help with that.

As for Crisco in the chamber - you're just fine leaving the Crisco out. While it does provide some insurance against chain fires, that's pretty temporary after the first shot (the other chambers tend to lose their Crisco load). In my experience the primary reason for Crisco and other chamber mouth grease loads is to soften the fouling from bp combustion. I don't use it any more - the dry lubed felt wad works just fine for me.

The best protection against chain fires is a proper fitting ball and proper fitting caps - no gaps to let hot gas through to the powder. Loose caps and/or out of round or undersized balls will provide a path and increase the probability of a chain fire.

 

[col.lemat]

sight & lube

Welcome to black powder. If you are using felt wads you do not need the crisco. I use crisco only cause I am cheep. I have had a couple of chainfires when I did not use the crisco lube. No big deal, Its overated but could be a danger to any one to the side of your pistol. I use the lube mainly to keep the carbon build up soft, even then after three cylenders with a LeMat I have to disamble & clean with a rag in order to keep in action.
On your sight I believe the small screw is a set screw which locks the larger adjusting screw in place. You need to lower the rear sight to lower the impact of the bullet.

 

[akaardvark]

Thanks both for the info on Crisco. I'm actually glad you mentioned the caps because I didn't think of their role in possible chainfires. I use #10 and while they seem tight enough, a couple invariably fragement and fall of the nipple, sometimes jamming the works. Probably user error as I put them on by thumb (haven't gotten to the gun shop to pick up a capper yet) and am probably not seating them well enough out of a subconscious fear of pushing too hard and detonating one.

Col. Lemat- I appreciate the info! That makes sense. And I was tryng to raise the rear sight, so thanks for saving me time and ammo figuring out that I was doing it opposite.

 

[col.lemat]

chain fires & my balls

My balls are out of round. Just had prostate surgery so nothing is working right, right now. Also using .451 in the LeMat to keep from bending the loading lever.

 

[akaardvark]

Sorry to hear about your surgery. My father's good friend had the same surgery and I know it's a tough situation. Hang in there and hopefully your balls will be well seated in no time.

 

[col.lemat]

rule of thumb move the rear sight the direction you want the bullet to go.

 

[tango2echo]

There are two screws for elevation. One is a set screw and the other is the mount screw. The smaller set screw is tightened to raise the sight and POA. You may have to slightly loosen the larger screw for maximum elevation.

In your case you are hitting high. There are several ways to change that. I removed the rear sight assembly and filed it down to make it sit lower in the frame and thus lower the POA. Then reblued and put everything back together. I think this is the best option as it also keeps the rear sight tucked out of the way on a quick draw.

Another option is shoot a lighter charge, or heavier ball. FME, Pietta has built these guns to hit about 5" high at 25 and 1-2" high at 50. I have 3 of them and they all hit high. (It is worse with a cylinder conversion BTW)

The one that I lowered the sight on hits 2" high at 25 and even or a tad low at 50.

I would really like to see a taller front sight available with a more period style than the plastic wedge sight that Pietta installs.

if anyone comes up with one please let me know.

t2e

 

[tpelle]

rule of thumb move the rear sight the direction you want the bullet to go.

Easy to remember:

FORS = Front Opposite, Rear Same"

 

[Dellbert]

58 Thaget Model

This is the same model I started with over 20 yrs ago. I found a good place to start with this 58 NA is with 20grs of pyrodex P, or real FFF black powder like Swiss, or Goax. With that light of a load you should have a nice three shot group. Every time you go up 5grs of powder your POI should go up the page. Try 20, 25, 30, 35, and 40grs as your powder charge goes up your POI should go up the target. On my revolver I filed the front sight down a little at a time, about 1/8th of an inch, at a time, till it was hitting three shot groups dead center at 25 yds, never had to raise the rear sight. There's never been a problem with this one going to the left or right. After you see where its grouping at 25yrds out at 50 and 75 yrds your back sight may come in handy out there. I would try it out there after I was set up at 25 yrds. I use the targets that people sight there rifles in with. They have the big orange in the center and one small one in each corner with the one inch lines on the target. Those lines in orange help me so I can see them from 30 ft to 25 yds. they work good out at 100 yrds also. When your groups start to spread out, and not group together you'll know it's time to back off the powder a little, or get real close to your target. If you use the lubed wads you don't need anything else over top the ball #10 caps, .454 rd ball, may want to keep a second cylinder from cabela's in mine. I just may get into trouble here. But the 1858 New Army is one of the best black power revolvers out on the market. IMOP

 

[Dellbert]

Try to post a couple pics of my 1858 New Army Target.

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