Next step after trimming .223 brass

[gacajun]

I've been reloading about 6 months on my Lee LCT, mostly 9mm, .40 and 38sp. Recently I bought a set of .223 dies, some once fired brass and some bullets. So far I've

1. Tumbled the brass
2. Lubed the brass
3. Decapped and sized the brass
4. Tumbled the brass again to remove the lube.
5. Measured each casing and put all that were too long into a stack.
6. Used the Lee zip trim and tool to trim the cases to length.
7. Used the chamfer tool to chamfer the inside and outside of the cases.

Now I'm not sure what to do next. The cases are smooth around the case ends but I'm don't know if I should tumble the cases again to make sure any remaining brass shavings are removed or can I go ahead and load the cases as is. Or is there some other step I need to do next.

Any suggestions are appreciated....thanks.

 

[amlevin]

Prime them, fill them with powder, seat bullets, and head for the range.

No need to tumble again. If any lube remains it might be a good idea to wipe them clean and make sure that the case necks don't have any lube remaining.

I use Dillon's spray lube and don't worry. When my cases are sized and trimmed they get loaded and shot as soon as I can get to the range.

 

[george d dennis]

you did just about everything. primer, powder, bullet next. you said you checked the
case length. i would sort the different brass if you have different brands. good luck.
im not a expert if someone else wants to chime in.

 

[chris in va]

Skip #4, not needed.

 

[Canuck-IL]

I'd suggest you decap with a universal decap die so as not to scratch up your sizer, then tumble then size in future ... may as well get those primer pockets cleaned up some in the tumbling.

As they sit now, you're ready for powder and bullet.
/Bryan

 

[Walkalong]

I always tumble again for a short while after trimming, deburring, and chamfering brass.

 

[50 cal]

If you wanted to go the extra mile you could deburr the inside of the flash hole.

 

[Ed from Maine]

newbie question

Let me ask a variation; started reloading with a rockchucker single stage and Lyman dies, .223 first, once fired cases, so I figured they would not have stretched much, I did not measure or trim or chamfer. Loaded up nicely, fired nicely.
So I then take 100 tumbled, lubed, deprimed once fired 6.5X55 cases, prime them, load them with powder, and go to seat bullets (Hornady A-Max 120 gr), and I am getting shavings of brass off the rim of the casing, doesn't seem to be the bullet material. Some cases I can 'clean' off with my thumbnail, others more difficult. I stopped, to sleep on it. I am thinking I need to dump the powder, one by one, and chamfer the case mouths, inside and out. (I assume it is not safe to try to trim a casing once it has been re-primed.)
Will firing the cartridges I have run the risk of damaging/scratching the chamber/throat of my rifle? Should I just throw away the half dozen or so that have this peeling or shavings of brass right at the rim of the casing mouth?
I measured some and see variations in length of .001-.003"...is that too much?

 

[243winxb]

Gacajun, will your sized brass fit the chamber of your firearm?

 

[243winxb]

Ed from Maine, next loading trim and chamfer if bullets have already been seated, but before firing, measure the trim length of the loaded rounds. If over maximum, pull the bullets. I have chamfered case mouths with powder and primer in the case with a hand tool. You need to dump the powder, one by one, and chamfer the case mouths, inside and out. No need to remove the primer using a hand tool.

 

[LiveLife]

No one mentioned military crimped primer pockets? He may struggle/get frustrated trying to seat a primer in a crimped pocket.

gacajun, your once fired brass may have military crimped primer pockets. If they do, you can removed the crimp with the Lee chamfer tool (a few twists will take out the crimp).

Even once-fired cases can often stretch beyond the max length. I use the Lee case length gauge/cutter/Zip trim and measure/cut every case.


This is the process I currently use:

1. Decap primer using Universal Decapping die
2. Inspect inside wall near case bottom for thinning of brass with a paper clip and toss/recycle case as necessary
3. Check primer pocket and remove military crimp from primer pockets
4. Tumble brass with fine walnut media and polish/NuFinish
5. Apply lube and resize the case
6. Measure case length and trim case (done in the same step with Lee case length gauge/cutter and Zip trim)
7. Chamfer case neck inside/outside (I also brush the inside of case neck while the case is spinning in the Zip trim - I also use steel wool/green pad to clean/polish the case neck/shoulder if needed)
8. Tumble again with fine walnut media and polish/NuFinish
9. Hand prime case (Press prime on LCT if you like but I prefer to hand prime)
10. Reload cases

 

[gacajun]

I did not have military crimped brass so no struggle there. I did blow out all of the cases with compressed air to clear out any remaining brass shavings and then loaded them. I'll shoot them this weekend.

Question...what do people use for lube for .223. I had some Lymans case lube, like a putty consistency. I used it and it worked but left residue that was hard to clean off. Is there something that is easier to use that cleans easier than this paste type stuff....maybe some type of spray on lube? Only thing is that you have to lube the inside of the neck too. I'm looking to use something different this time.

Thanks.

 

[Ed from Maine]

My limited experience, but worked well so far; Hornady OneShot spray, over cases standing upright in tray, at an angle so some goes inside neck. Spray from a couple of directions for good coverage.
Later cleans off easily with handtowel.

 

[bbuddtec]

prime (put aside non-conformists to chamfer later)
charge
seat
crimp
strip up
smile

 

[LiveLife]

Question...what do people use for lube for .223.

I use a lanolin based Udder Cream for case lube and RCBS lube pad for .223/.308 - works very well to smoothly resize military .308 cases. I got the idea from lanolin based "bag balm" but this lotion has a pleasant odor and is not greasy - wipes off easy with paper towel or tumbling. I found it at the Dollar Store ($1/2oz tube) going through the lotion section with lanolin in the ingredient.

If you don't find it locally, you can buy online ($1.75/2 oz tube - $5.75/12 oz tub) - http://www.udderlysmooth.com/order.shtml

 

[SilentVectorX]

Dissolve whatever paste type lube into isopropyl alcohol and use it in any old spray bottle. Put cases in gallon ziplock, spray, shake, done.

 

[LiveLife]

Thanks for the tip! Gotta try that.

 

[DFWBioFuels]

I have experienced a stuck case with spray lube.

I use Hornady Unique case lube and haven't had a problem.

Here's my order:
Tumble
I use a universal decapping die (sort out brass that needs crimp removal)
Swage the primer pocket if needed
Trim case length if needed
Rack up and lube
Reload

 

[pdosh]

You can make a good spray lube with liquid lanolin 4oz and a bottle of 99% alcohol. Get the lanolin at a health food store. You just have to shake it up well before each use. Any spray bottle will work. Double check this recipe. Look at www.frfrogspad.com there are some other good formulas there too. I made the case lube and use it for pistol rounds on a progressive.

 

[AverAGE JOE REVIEW]

I come home from the range and de prime and re size my cases after cleaning my AR.
I use imperial wax as a case lube. Can't beat it. I put cases in the tumbler for 3 hours and then use an air hose to blow out the case/primer pockets. I then use a forester original case trimmer and a forester 3 in 1 cutter to trim the case to 1.750 and chamfer the inside and the outside. I hand prime and then load. This procedure works well for me and produces very accurate ammunition.
I also clean the re sizing, de-capping die every 1,000 rounds or so.