No.4Mk.1* distance rifle Q's

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rugerdude

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Alright, I've been pretty squirrely lately asking questions about saigas and PSL's and other stuff that I really don't have the money for, simply because I want a decent distance rifle.

I currently own a No.4Mk.1* Long branch with very strong rifling and a scope coming for christmas, and I have some questions about using it for targets out to 600 or 700 yards for minute of man accuraccy.

I hear that the .303 is a great distance round, is this true and why?

What are some relatively simple things I can do to get the most accuraccy out of it?

Also, and performance data of other No.4Mk.1's would be neat too

Thanks
 
Which rear sight do you have on the rifle as it sits now? If you have the 300/600m flip sight, I wouldn't say it'd be too good. If you have the micrometer sight like my No.4 Mk2 Fazakerly came with, I'd say it'd be real good for what you're talking about.

Scope? Unless your rifle is a No.4T with the issue mount, I wouldn't scope it. I wouldn't want to drill and tap and I can't say I'd trust too many of the "no-gunsmithing" mounts.
 
I have the 300/600 flip sight on my No4Mk1*, (wish I had a micrometer, but hey, be happy with what you have!), and she is quite accurate at 100 yards, which is the only range I can go to right now.
 
Numrich should have the Micrometer sight in stock. IIRC, they're not that expensive.

Mike
 
There are some nice no-mod scope mounts out there that work well. As far as wringing out accuracy, the headspace could be a factor. Also, the barrel is hopefully in good shape. Hand loading can help in both the headspace and a marginal barrel to improve accuracy. You may have to play with some loads, but a 180gr Sierra Match King is a good place to start for 600+ yard shooting. I have not fired any of my Enfields over 300 yards though. I do get 2" groups @ 100 yards from a bench all day with my #4 Fazakerly shooter and my reloads, which is 150gr spitzer over 43gr IMR4895. That load works well for me. Also, be sure that the king screw is gorilla tight, and the barrel muzzle has some movement in the fore stock. That makes a difference in accuracy.
 
I have as #4 Mk. 1* in one of the "zytel" synthetic stocks; lopped about 1" off the barrel and recrowned it. Have used it a couple of times on rocks out at400 yards and out and it shoots as well as my better M1 Garands. I use a Speer 150 gr SP which has worked well for me. As I recall Sierra does make a 174 grain match bullet for them but they will be pricey. Bear in mind that there used to be a lot of high power competion in both the UK and Canada with #4s and properly set up they shot quite well.

There used to be a site called "The .303 Page" or something like that; good info.

Reloading for the Lee-Enfield is "different". Best thing I have found is to neck size only and the Lee Loader (crude as it is) works very well. You just have to segregate the brass by the rifle it was fired in. If you full length size it you will only get 2-3 reloads before you get head separations.
 
I actually already have a lee loader that I have yet to use, so that I can make handloads.

Yes, my rifle came with the crappy 2 aperature sights, and not the micrometer one. It is probably right on at 300, however this makes shooting at 100 really hard (they don't like to go on paper) which is why I want the scope. I won't be drilling, and there are people who have had good experiences with no gunsmith mounts and I figure almost anything can be made stable with some tinkering if need be.

There was one time when I was shooting at 200m, and not trying too hard, I ended up with 2 shots going through the same hole about 3 inches low-left of the center of the target, and the third was off paper I think. It was one crazy fluke though. The reason it was low was because I was shooting underloaded ammo.

Would free-floating be a good idea, and if so, how is it done?
 
Enfields can be very, very accurate....better than most WWII vintage surplus (IMHO). I think if you scope it (and use good ammo---NOT milsurp) you'll find it shoots well. The problem I continually find with most milsurps, is muzzle wear, as a result of the steel cleaning rods used. So, while the rifling may be good and strong, check the muzzle. May need to be re-crowned or counter-bored for best accuracy.

Would free-floating be a good idea, and if so, how is it done?
Click to expand...

Hard to do with a stock that has both top and bottom wood, and barrel bands that basically MAKE the wood contact the barrel. NOTE: the Enfields (at least Mk 1 III*) have a spring loaded "pressure device (don't know what else to call it)" right at the front tip of the stock. Check to make sure this is present (it often isn't). Pretty much works the same as shimming the forend on a free floating barrel.
 
The muzzle looks good, and the cleaning kit I got with it does not contain a cleaning rod, but instead a piece of rope to attach patches to and pull through the barrel, this could be why the muzzle looks nice.

Couldn't you in theory, take enough out of the handguards so that the barrel isn't touched, but the stock pieces still fit together? Would it really be worth the trouble?

Also, I've heard of different ways to free float. One involves the barrel being supported at its base and at the end of the stock and nowhere else, and the other is where nothing contacts the barrel at all. Is one way better than the other?

Thanks a lot.
 
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