Noob Confusion

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Guitarss

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Hey everyone, a couple years ago I bought a RCBS Rock Chucker Master reloading kit and have recently got into buying stuff needed to reload. This is my first time and have read some books on reloading. Last week i went to cabelas looking for materials to reload 9mm. 9mm looked like a good start for a noob. I picked up some brand new winchester brass, hodgdon universal powder, 115gr FMJ Flat base bullets, and winchester small pistol primers. At the time i thought I had everything needed for reloading 9mm. But got home and read my Speer manual from the kit and it said nothing about using winchester primers, or FMJ flat base bullets for 9mm. I looked online but can't find if its ok to interchange these items from what the book calls for? It is confusing cause one place acts like it will blow up if you shoot it and another says its ok .

(Speer book calls for 115gr GDHP or TMJ RN bullets and cci 500 primers)

Any good data books to get ahold of?
 
Get a lymans 49th edition manual.
And btw, you will be fine using what you have. The speer manual is referring to their bullets. Gdhp is gold dot hollow point. Tmj is total metal jacket, the same a fmj.

Win primers will be just fine also. The speer book listed what they used and by no means is it the only primer you can use. Just start at the minimum load and work up.

Welcome to the high road. Lots of good folks here.
 
WSP primers will be fine with your 115 Gr FMJ bullets. Follow the Speer data for 115 Gr TMJ RN.

Or go to Hodgdon and look up 115 Gr FMJ data for Universal Clays. (Simply shown as "Universal" in the data center at Hodgdon)

http://www.hodgdonreloading.com/
 
You want to keep in mind the reloading manual is a guide, besides a source of good definitions and explanation of terms it is a guide providing some guidelines. You will even notice some subtle differences between manuals and the load data. One rule always applies, start low and work up.

Definitions also have a few caveats. I see where bocefus78 mentions:
Tmj is total metal jacket, the same a fmj.

I would respectfully differ on that seeing the two as different:
Total Metal Jacket ("TMJ") (also known as "Full Metal Case") is often mistaken for a similar bullet, the Full Metal Jacket ("FMJ"). However, these two types of bullets are not the same. Specifically, the difference between an FMJ and a TMJ lies in the base of the round.

In as FMJ the base of the bullet is exposed lead, and in the TMJ the bullet is fully covered with a copper plating. The TMJ is primarily used in Match shooting as TMJs are more accurate than a traditional FMJ. Some indoor ranges require TMJ rounds to reduce the amount of lead contaminants in the air. Note that TMJs are not recommended for ported firearms, as the casing may be sheared off as the bullet leaves the barrel.

A Google will bring up a half dozen or more references. Does it really matter? Nope! Because the more you load the more proficient you become and the better you will understand the various terms and terminology and of course there is always this forum which by the way Welcome Aboard! :)

As mentioned the Lyman 49th is an excellent reference, lots of good stuff and on the shelf at your local Cabela's.

Ron
 
I'll just add that I recommend new reloaders read all the front/non-cartridge-specific material in at least two different reloading manuals before attempting to load cartridges. If you understand the actual principles involved, then it is a little easier to figure things out and make sound decision - and the front of most reloading manuals is generally where all the explanation of the HOW and WHY is found.
 
Your Speer manual, like all bullet or powder manufacturer's manuals(nothing wrong with 'em though. Mind you, not all manufacturer's books reflect data they actually tested. Lee, for example, tests nothing themselves. They use Hodgdon's data mostly.), only has data for stuff Speer makes. Your Winchester primers will be fine.
The Lyman book is more versatile than bullet or powder manufacturer's manuals because the make neither.
You don't need bullet specific data either. You load for the bullet weight and cast or jacketed. Your FMJ's are jacketed. On Hodgdon's web site, use the 115 grain Speer Gold Dot data. The SPR GDHP data and you'll be fine.
Just remember that we're here to help for the asking.
 
I had the same problem. When i got my rcbs rockchucker the speer load book included in the package made me think the same way so i got a lyman 49th edition and my problems were solved.
 
Speer, RCBS, and CCI are owned by the same company, thus they advise using the primer they make. Just like Chevrolet recommends using GM parts. Just start low and work up and you will be fine.
 
I knew tmjs were different then fmj. I just was confused cause the speer book and google searches were sounding like you couldn't change stuff. But I knew you could cause there is so much componets to only use 4-5 brands wouls be crazy.
I ordered the lyman book and will be going through it. I like the books cause they teach you that its no game and can't just be thrown together. But love the forum you get actual expierience and not all about $$ to their own product
 
You want to keep in mind the reloading manual is a guide, besides a source of good definitions and explanation of terms it is a guide providing some guidelines. You will even notice some subtle differences between manuals and the load data. One rule always applies, start low and work up.

^^^^^ This!!! ^^^^^^

Always start low and work up. IMHO, one source for load data is not enough. I have several, and will consider getting more. If there is a discrepancy, I err on the side of caution, start low and work up, and chrono all my loads.
 
Two tips, if you are able to take the barrel out of your pistol such as for fieldstripping, BEFORE you get to the range, drop each round into the chamber (scientifically known as the plunk test) to make sure that your newly made rounds will fit the chamber of your pistol. Later, you can buy a case gage that does the same thing if you wish.

Second, do not load a full magazine. Load one round. Fire it. Listen for any unusual sounds such a a muffled report or if you feel unusual recoil. Make sure that the target--use a new target at very short range so you can't miss--was hit. Check the brass for any unusual signs of high pressure or other abnormality. If all went well, then load two rounds into the magazine, fire the first while carefully observing and listening for proper function, then fire the second if all is well. Stop and unload the remaining round if anything does not feel or look right after firing the first round.

Semi-autos can sometimes be a bit finicky on feeding because the recoil spring and the design of the firearm may not cycle low pressure rounds correctly resulting in failures to extract and feed. For that reason, load only a few rounds and try them before going whole hog and loading a bunch that will not function your firearm. If you really want to, you can load ten rounds at the lowest recommended grains of powder, load ten more at x+.1 grain, and so on until you get to the max recommended powder load. Not sure how far you are from a range but if you are far, then this saves time to determine what load properly functions your pistol.

These are things that I know from hard experience--did not plunk test my 9mm bullets but did check gage them with a SAAMI spec'ed gage. However, my Sig P6 has a short throat so it does not like certain profile bullets regardless what SAAMI says and so the end result is that I had a lot of 9mm ammo that did not fit my gun's chamber. :rolleyes:

Obviously for me, the solution for the problem was that I bought a S&W Third Generation 9mm which eats most anything in order to use the ammo that I made. I could have pulled the bullets (btw, I recommend getting one) but did not look forward to pulling all of those bullets--faster to acquire a new used gun that would eat them. My FIL loaded his 9mm incorrectly one time, and I had to pull about 500 rounds which is not fun.
 
Don't get into overthinking this process. Most of the time bullet bases don't effect load data. Normally, primers are interchangeable from maker to maker (but you may see a slight difference). The important things to watch are powder types, powder charges, and bullet material and weights. Read a couple reloading manuals' How To sections and follow the data for the same weight ans composition bullet and you'll be safe. I always tell newer reloaders to start with "starting loads" and work up if necessary (many times it isn't)...

K.I.S.S. Go slow, double check everything, and most important, have fun...
 
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