Noob questions....

[sooter76]

So I've finally settled on purchasing a RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme kit and to get started reloading. For the moment I just kept everything simple and stuck to RCBS products in terms of shellholders, dies, and the like. However for the future I do have a couple of noob questions...

1) Can other brands of dies (LEE, Dillion, etc.) be used with a RCBS press?

2) One of the die sets I looked at for a pistol cartridge mentioned a roll crimp and another had a taper crimp... What's the real difference and is one preferable over the other?

3) The kit included...

• Rock Chucker Supreme Single Stage press
• 505 scale
• Uniflow Powder Measure
• Speer Reloading Manual
• Hand priming tool with small and large primer plugs
• Folding Hex Key Set with 0.050", 1/16", 5/64", 3/32", 7/64", 1/8", 9/64" and 5/32" keys
• Universal Case Loading Block, which holds 40 cases in most rifle and pistol calibers
• Case Lube Kit, which includes a 2 oz bottle of Case Lube-2, a case lube pad, 2 case neck brushes for .22 through .30 calibers and an accessory handle
• Powder Funnel for .22 to .45 caliber, including the Winchester Short Magnum calibers
• Chamfer and deburring tool for .17 through .60 caliber

Is there anything else I should consider adding to my set up (or replacing for that matter)?

Thanks in advance...

 

[Frag]

Its good kit. You might want to add the below as and when you can.

More reloading manuals. Lymans 49th is anothrr one.
A kinetic bullet puller for diassembling rounds that are suspect.
A brass tumbler is a nice thing to have.
Boxes (and labels) for the loaded ammo.
A notebook.
Couple more loading trays.

 

[Frag]

Forgot to answer the other questions!

Genrrally, yes, dies are interchangeable beteeen brands. I use lees in my rcbs press and vice versa. In fact my lee turret has both in it.

Generally speaking, autoloader rounds use a taper crimp and revolver rouns use a roll crimp.

The crimp is just supposed to be enough to remove the `bell` put on the mouth of the case to seat the bullet. Heavier loaded revolver rounds need a good roll crimp. First reason is to stop the other bullets creeping out of their cases due to recoil. Second reason is that heavier loads tend to use slower burning powders and the crimp keeps the bullet there for a tad longer allowing pressure to build up and ensure complete burning.

 

[Blue68f100]

You will need some calipers.

Dillon dies that I have seen (pistol) do not have the expander, part of the press setup. But there the only ones that make a carbide 357sig dies.

 

[Jesse Heywood]

Welcome aboard. My recommendations:
Read the sticky thread: Reloading Library of Wisdom
Manuals: Lee #2, Lyman $49. You can't have too many, they all show different ways to do things.
Before you buy anything else, read the manuals.
I can't emphasize it enough, read the manuals. The guys her can answer questions that aren't in the manuals, as well as clarifying what is in the books.

 

[James2]

You will need shell holders and dies for each caliber you load. The shell holders must fit your press. Some shell holders fit several calibers of ammo. Any brand of dies with the standard 7/8-14 threads will work in the press.

You can get loading data from the powder manufacturers online. The data usually comes with safety tips too.

You are entering into a neat hobby to go along with your shooting. Enjoy!

 

[stavman11]

OCD can be a GOOD thing with Loading....

just take yer time, double tripple check everything...

READ the manuals... ask questions when yer not sure.....

Loading can be very rewarding and fun.... so be safe.. have fun.... and good luck



Stav...

 

[witchhunter]

You bought the gold standard of presses. If you are loading for bottleneck rifle cartridges, you will need a trimmer at some point as rifle cases stretch. Keep records of your loads and mark your boxes accordingly. Only keep one kind of powder on your bench at a time. It is easy to leave some in a measure and forget which one it is. Welcome to our addiction.

 

[grubbylabs]

A case trimmer as mentioned, calipers, and I would also suggest micrometer. Loads of people have had good luck with Harbor freight calipers and micrometer, but I finally went with Fowler because the Harbor freight ones just were not lasting for me. The Fowlers' just seem to be more constant and reliable.

Also some storage for your brass that is in various stages of processing. For example you might want bins for brass that has just been shot, cleaned, sized, primed, and belled.

finished ammo storage is also important, what you use will depend on why your loading and how much your loading. If you are just laoding what your going to shoot at the next range trip, small box's work well. If you are hoarding, then some larger containers will be your choice.

 

[readyeddy]

I would get a digital scale. It's faster and easier to read. If you weigh every charge, it's almost a must. This one is good and has a good price. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/17...50-electronic-powder-scale-750-grain-capacity

 

[gamestalker]

Yes, most all other dies will fit that press, Lee for sure.

You need to trim brass with something. I would recommend a Lee trimming set up, I think it's called a Lee Zip trim or something like that. It's inexpensive and works great and can be used with a cordless drill. Just buy the cutting head and threaded shell holder piece. All you need beyond that is the cartridge specific case length gauge and shell holder for each cartridge you'll be loading.

Roll crimp is for rimmed cartridges, 38 spcl, .357 mag and other wheel gun type cases that head space on the rim. A roll crimp prevents bullets from jumping out of the case mouths.

The taper crimp is for rimless cartridges such as 9mm, .40 S&W, 45 acp type cartridges. A taper crimp is used to remove the bell on the case mouth and does not provide neck tension or bullet hold at all.

You might want to consider buying a tumbler also. They are great for helping to spot problems with brass, neck splits and such, which can be easily missed on a dirty brass. And they also help remove grit, which can scratch the brass during resizing, and lube after resizing.

You'll also need a dial caliper. Harbor Frieght has a pretty decent one for like $10 or $15.

I would also recommend another book or two. It's a good idea to have multiple sources for data, and general informational source.

And a kinetic bullet puller is also a very handy tool, especially during the learning curve.

Sounds like you may need to do a bit more reading to help you understand the various functions, and with more clarity. I realize that everyone has to start some where, so don't be offended by this please.

GS

 

[sooter76]

Gamestalker - Sounds like you may need to do a bit more reading to help you understand the various functions, and with more clarity. I realize that everyone has to start some where, so don't be offended by this please.

No offense taken. I'm well aware I need alot more reading and research...

And thanks all for the replies and advice!

 

[Potatohead]

I don't like to publicly disagree with one who is more experienced than I, but I didn't like the cheapy calipers. I sent the (Frankford Arsenal brand I think)cheapys back and have had much better luck with the RCBS caliper that's a bit more expensive. The cheapys would never show zero when I would hit the zero button.

Good point on the reading GS.

 

[FallAirFever]

You have a great kit there!
There is a lot of very good advice as far as additional equipement.
Personally I am not a fan of the cheap electronic scales, I have had 2, MTM and FA, and both had trouble holding zero. Didnt seem to matter how old or new the batteries were, used them in different spots to make sure there was no interferance etc... I really like my 5-0-5 scale.

There are a lot of guys saying to get manuals and read, read, read. I agree but found that watching some YouTube videos were very helpful, especially a guy that goes by the handle "accuratewayz"

 

[readyeddy]

By all means, get both a beam scale and digital scale. Use one to check the other. Uniform powder charges are important when loading rifle ammo.

 

[Hondo 60]

1 & 2 are easy to answer.

1. Yes, any die that's 7/8 x 14 will fit.
I have Lee, Redding, Dillon & RCBS. they all fit.

2. A roll crimp is for REVOLVER loads.
A Taper crimp is for semi-autos.

Semi-autos use the case mouth to properly seat the round in the chamber.
Revolvers use the case rim.

The pic below has an excessive roll crimp, but I use it to illustrate, not to set as an example

 

[sooter76]

FallAirFever - There are a lot of guys saying to get manuals and read, read, read. I agree but found that watching some YouTube videos were very helpful, especially a guy that goes by the handle "accuratewayz".

I'll check it out thanks... When I ordered the kit I also ordered RCBS dvd on reloading as well.

 

[Potatohead]

True on the YouTube. Also, you really learn alot when you just jump on in. I read all about setting up the dies but until I actually got them, and saw how they function, and what they look like (I had never seen one), I was kind of at a standstill. i don't mean to discredit reading though. Some of it depends on how you learn and how much of what you read you retain. Im not trying to sound like a pro here, cuz Im a noob myself. But I wish the now me couldve talked to the then me a month or so ago, I couldve shed a lot of light. I think sometimes the pros forget how foreign this can be at the beginning.