Noob to reloading

Status
Not open for further replies.

Tortuga12

Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2006
Messages
194
My father gave me a Lee Anniversary reloading kit for Christmas last year, and since then I've completed my workbench, and would like to start reloading.

I plan on starting with .38 special, I figured a straight walled revolver cartridge would be a good place to begin, and am looking for any advice you would like to give a noobie!

The kit seems to be fairly complete, I think I only need to procure some shell holders and maybe a case tumbler to have everything I need (for now!) I do have the latest Lyman reloading handbook.

Also, at some point I'd like to start reloading for my K31. It would seem that Redding dies are the way to go here, are they compatible with a Lee press? Being a noob, I am pretty clueless as to compatibility between brands.

Any advice (procedures, materials, suggested loads) will be greatly appreciated!! Thanks in advance!
 
Congrats on the gift and welcome to reloading. The most important advice is to be careful. Reload when you're not distracted and interrupted. It's too easy to double charge if you're loading a target round in a large volume case like .38, .357, etc. Your press will accept any industry standard dies -- 7/8-14, so most any brand will work. I'm not familiar with Hornady's new lock n load system, so I'm not sure of compatibility issues. You may want to consider a carbide or titanium carbide die set. This will allow you to resize your brass without using resizing lube. I've used them for years and had no problems with stuck cases, and like not having to goop up my cases! Take care and good luck!
 
Lee dies are about as good as any, and a lot cheaper than most.

You don't really need a case tumbler; your revolver is not going to be throwing your brass in the dirt like an autoloader. They are nice to have though, but not necessary.

Do you have a reloading block? That's one of the most important pieces of equipment when reloading with a single stage press, and they only cost a couple of dollars. You'll want to peer into each cartridge with a flashlight after loading the powder before seating the bullet. It's quick and easy to do them all at once if they are in a loading block.

Use a bulky powder at first, so you can easily see how much powder is in the case. Unique is a good choice. So is Red Dot.
 
Buy more books that expand your load library and read them. Take your time and buy quality equipment. The time you save is well worth the expense up front. Don't waste your time with standard lubes, use one-shot, it is the easiest and fastest way to lube brass. Use it with all dies, it makes the sizing effort even easier (important on a progressive with more stations but still nice feel). Search this site and read the many archived threads when you have a question
 
Welcome to reloading. The first thing is to make sure you have a quality reloading manual. Then, read it cover to cover. Reloading is not hard, but it unforgiving if you don't follow directions and warning. Start with the 38 and Lee Carbide Pistol Dies. With carbide you don't have to lube your cases before you resize them. This is nice as it saves time and less hassle. Select which bullet you want to use from the manual, and a powder listed. Some manuals will list which powders were more accurate than others, or which powders will fill the case more. Then just follow the load data. Never go over the max recommended loads. Remember accuracy is more important than raw velocity. You will be thrilled with your first rounds you send down range that you built yourself.

good shooting
 
I started reloading about a year ago with an anniversary kit. One thing you will need is a set of calipers to measure OAL. I have been using the lee carbide dies also they seem to work good. Another thing i found is that the powder measure they give you with that kit isn't as accurate if you fill it up with powder, so I made a baffle for it. Much better now.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top