I'm new to reloading need advice

[DurtyHarry2029]

I recently purchased a Lee 50th anniversary reloading kit and purchased 2 sets of reloading dies for .45 acp and 7.62x39 and also a Frankford Arsenal tumbler/sifter kit. I was wondering what else I need to start reloading ammo and what would be your recommendations on bullets powder and primers as well as what else do I need for reloading "tool" wise. Is there any reloading stores around Houston/baytown texas that anyone knows of? Links to my items.


http://www.amazon.com/Lee-50th-Anniversary-Reloading-Press/dp/B00162RM3E

http://cgi.ebay.com/Lee-45-ACP-Carb...526?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5adb7015ae

http://cgi.ebay.com/Lee-3-Die-Set-P...577?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b4702789

http://www.amazon.com/Frankford-Arsenal-Quick-n-EZ-Case-Tumbler/dp/B000TTILBC

 

[Shimitup]

Welcome to reloading! You're going to have a lot of fun. The number 1 tool is more than one reloading manual, I like Speer and Hornady myself, there are many other good ones too. If you immerse yourself in the pages of those books for a while you'll answer many of those questions yourself. The only other things that quickly come to mind considering what you're loading are a taper crimp dies for your .45, if it didn't come with it and possibly a case trimmer.

Have fun.

P.S

Carter's Country, Baileys house of Guns and Gander Mountain are the only places that come to mind these days. I think there's more in Pasadena but that's out of my stomping grounds.

 

[Muttt]

You need

press
dies
shellholders
case lube/neck lube
scale
priming tool
caliper to measure case length
case trimming tool
case chamfering tool
case cleaning tool tumbler/vibrating/ultrasonic etc. (at least one type)
reloading manuals

There are many many more things. But, with those items, you can at least get started.

 

[Kernel]

Four or five Reloading Blocks would be real handy. I couldn't imagine handloading, on a single station press, without them.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=767946

 

[kludge]

The Lee kit will have all the tools you need to get started, except calipers, and I second having loading blocks. You can make them yourself - I started out using the ammo trays from factory ammo.

The very next thing I would get is a chronograph. I spent too many years without one and looking back, though I saved money reloading, I feel like I wasted a lot of time. If all I did was load plinking ammo for pistol then I'd say it's unnecessary, but the minute you start loading magnums and rifle ammo, you're flying blind.

For 7.62x39 I recommend Accurate 1680 powder. For .45 ACP almost any fast to mid-range pistol powder will work. Universal is clean burning, meters well, and is useful in lots of other calibers, and will fill the case better than some of the fast burning powders. Unique will fill the case well too, but I have a hard time with it in the powder measure. Accurate No.2 and American Select are on the fast burning side, for economy, and are clean and meter well. Except for .38 SPL, I don't like Bullseye, but many people swear by it in .45. I'm sure there will be a dozen other powder recommendations for .45.

 

[tac_driver]

I can suggest starting out with round-nose bullets for the 45acp. Hollow points and semi wadcutters are a little more complicated for a new reloader.
A shooting rest with a chronograph. You'll probably end up shooting it anyway so get one where the electronics are seperate from the sky-screens.

 

[Ky Larry]

What is the purpose of a chronograph? It will tell you velocity, standard deviation, average velocity, median velocity, etc. This is all interesting info but if my loads are accurate and not over pressure, who cares? I load for accuracy, not max velocity. I have laods for all my rifles that will shoot bug holes. As long as they are safe, why should I worry about velocity? Not trying to start a flame war, just curious.

 

[doubleh]

I would like to have a chronograph just for the curiosity factor. I also load for accuracy and never touch the maximum loadings listed. I do my range work and know the trajectory of each load that I stick with. I have managed to get by without a chrony for over 40 years without having a problem. It would still be interesting to know just how fast things are zipping along though.

 

[noylj]

What I would like to know is where do you find a range that will let you "play" with your chronograph and piss-off all the other shooters? I would love to have for use in the indoor range, but the lights needed are too expensive and a couple of indoor ranges have told me that their insurance will not allow any to cros the red line, even with a cease-fire.
The outdoor ranges get all huffy if someone is any near the shooting benches during a cease-fire and don't want you doing anything within 25 feet in front of the shooting bench.
There is one range that has a position for you to use when you rent their chrony. However, you don't get to shoot. They have one of the club members come over, set it up, and then fire your loads. You get to hear all about handloads and how you should really just shoot factory, etc.
The only people who need a chrony are those having to meet a Power Factor or to work out exterior ballistics prior to a hunt.
If I need a full power load for hunting, I will use factory.
Other than silhouette shooting, I have never needed to load max.
First thing is: have you read at least two manuals? Do you understand headspace, bullet seating, and COL?
For .45ACP (and .38Special), I would start with AA2 or 231/HP38.
Unless you have shot a lot of mil spec 230gn hardball, I would start with a 200gn FMJ. First loads should be the starting load.
Load a couple of dummy rounds (no primer or powder) to set-up your dies and establish the seating depth and crimp. Use the dummies to verify that the dummy rounds fit your magazine, feed, and chamber in your gun. I like to have the barrel right at the bench so I can check case sizing and bullet seating right at the bench. Only load 10-20 until you see if the cycle in your gun.

 

[ScratchnDent]

You will need a case length gauge for your 7.62x39 brass. The Lee kit you bought already includes the cutter and lock stud, so this is what you'll need to complete it for trimming your brass.

http://www.natchezss.com/product.cfm?contentID=productDetail&prodID=LEE90133

 

[Hondo 60]

I will 2nd, 3rd & 4th getting more than one reloading manual.
I like Lyman's 49th Edition & Modern Reloading by Richard Lee.
I also have individual caliber books by Load Books USA.

With those you should have just about every recipe for making GREAT ammunition.

My favorite place to shop is MidwayUSA. It's an online store that has just about everything you need & their prices are usually very good.

My favorite brick & mortar store is Cabela's, but I see the nearest one to you is 3 hours away. I can't imagine a city as big as Houston not having some sporting goods store that has reloading stuff.
There are several Gander Mt stores in or near Houston. They should have the stuff you want.

About the only thing you DON'T want to order online is powder & primers. Both have a $20+ hazmat shipping fee.

 

[DurtyHarry2029]

Thanks

Guys I really appriciate all the info that was given i was looking into some manuals already I am probably going to pick one up for now at the Pasadena gun club/range I believe they had some along with powder and primers. I will eventually start looking into some of the other manuals you guys mentioned thanks again.

 

[RealGun]

Unless you have shot a lot of mil spec 230gn hardball, I would start with a 200gn FMJ.

I am not sure what you mean here, but I value having something to compare directly to boxed ammo, invariably 230 gr FMJ until paying for hollow point defensive rounds or generally higher prices.

There are also many more loads available for 230 gr FMJ. In 200gr FMJ, I only know of the MG JFP, 1000 piece minimum. A starter pack of 100 of the 230gr FMJ can be bought most anywhere that has reloading basics.

Yours might be a good point but may not be something a beginner needs to factor in.

 

[qajaq59]

Welcome to a great hobby. Start out slowly. Look for accuracy, keep good notes, and be safe. Also, get all your loads from either the powder manufacturer or a manual.

 

[tac_driver]

I shoot in the action sports and there is a power factor floor I don't want to be too high and I don't want to be under. one reason why i recommend a chronograph.

It allows you to see when you have reached your limit with your bullet/powder/gun combination.

It will let you see problems before they get out of control ex. I was crimping my 45acp 200gr LSWC too light and was getting bullet setback i was able to see my velocities were too high according to published data. so I stop right away and re-evaluated my rounds and found the problem before it got out of hand and that was the starting load according to the book I was 242fps over it.
I'm sorry some of you can't set up a chronograph but it is a good thing to see what your loads are actually doing and be able to monitor their progress.

 

[bullseye308]

For rifle loading you will need to trim the cases as well as lube them. The Lee tool works well and you might wanna invest in a can of imperial sizing wax. Around 7.00 and will last maybe a lifetime.
Loading blocks definitely make it safer, I am not partial to the "universal" blocks, I like them caliber specific.
Good solid bench to work on that is well light with no fan blowing on it. Bolt it to the wall if possible or add on a shelf under it & load it with heavy objects.
Check weights for the scale. Not absolutely necessary, but real nice to have just in case something doesn't seem right.
A good understanding with household members that you are not to be disturbed while loading as bad things can happen. This is not a time to be distracted and goof up.
Lots of small bins from the dollar store, harbor freight, or wally-mart.
Dial calipers from harbor freight. I prefer the digital ones for around 15.00. May as well pick up eye & ear protection while there. At least wear eye protection when working around powder and primers just in case.
Notebook to keep all your records in. Log everything with results. You will not remember it all later on and you won't have to waste components trying something that didn't work before.
Something to put your loaded ammo in and label. Depending on the quantity you load, you may need small amo boxes or ammo cans or...
A few hours or more to read & re-read all the stickies here.

There are lots more things that are nice but not necessary and they will come in time. Multiple presses, a chrono, bulk purchase storage, personal range at new house in the country, stuff like that.

Welcome and good luck.

 

[MrOldLude]

Info overload. Start loading .45 first. Straight wall cases are easier.

Buy a reloading book. Lyman 49th, Speer, Hornady, etc. Read it, read it, read it. It's all there. The book will go over everything else you need. Dies, calipers, etc. Don't worry about a chronograph right now, maybe later. In the book will be loads. From there, pick a powder and a bullet. Buy both, the right type of primer, and just load a few to minimum loads. Try them out. Bump up the powder levels from there.

 

[The Bushmaster]

Manual, Manual, Manual...Read, Read, Read....Then read the sticky at the top of this page. Then ask all the remaining questions you have.

 

[TeamPrecisionIT]

Good handgun powder for Lee PPM

Didn't mean to post here.... sorry about that.

 

[noylj]

I find that for people just shooting a .45 for the first time, that the wrist twisting of a milspec 230gn hardball load is more than they like.
If you can find it, get some of Federal's .45 Gold Medal Match 185 gn FMJ SWC Match. I thought I had seen some .45 200gn FMJ-RN but maybe not. Just trying to warn you that you might want to start with a light bullet and work up. There are 200gn JRNFP bullets.