Normal wear or problem?

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yarrum

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I have an 1851 Navy (Pietta) that I have shot about 18 times. The cylinder seems to me to have gouges. Is the timing off? Is so can it be fixed? or is this just normal wear.

Quite often with the hammer all the way back you can rotate the cylinder.
 

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Hello. I think that your revolver has two problems - delayed bolt release and too much force on the bolt slapping the cylinder. In addition to Mr. Pettifoger's nice article I can add the following: On my Pietta 1858 I put a small radius (about .08") on top of the bolt leg that is contacting the cam. That resulted in more gradual, slow, release of the bolt. Of course this resulted also and in an earlier bolt release (in your case you need that). I think that putting a similar radius to the rear, lower, part of the leg (the part that is making contact with the cam) will result in similar results. But before you try this intervention it is adviceable to have a new bolt on hand, just in case.

Boris
 
I think you'll probably be able to get away with just a new trigger/bolt spring. VTI has the original equipment springs, or, you can use the SAA 1873 wire spring [lighter, almost unbreakable] from Wolff Springs as a nice upgrade.

Wire-Type Springs (Stock No. 32294-32296) fits: Colt, Uberti, and most clones
 
Changing springs well not do much. You need to address the bolt leg to hammer cam relationship. This is what controls bolt drop. Lighter springs well delay the peening but it well still occur.
 
was the gun bought used? looking at the picture blown up, it looks like MCB might be right, and the ''bolt'' [cylinder stop] might be either a misfit, or part of the lower ''leg'' of the cylinder stop may have busted off.While you're buying a ''bolt''/trigger spring, you may as well replace the ''bolt'', too.
VTI 482 Pietta Bolt (1851, 1861, 1860} $12.00 .
 
It is not necessary to be used gun for this condition to occur. I have handled 4 new Piettas (an 1851 brass frame Sheriff, an 8" 1858 and two 5 1/2" 1858) and on all of them the bolts were dropping late resulting in very similar gouges.

Boris
 
had 4 of those pieces of craps. They'd either be jammed up and not cock from the factory or the barrel, wedge pin, cylinder shaft would blow off that gun when shooting.
 
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Madcratebuilder,

Thank you for the reply. What was your opinion for a fix?
 
So if I understand everyone- If I spend the $ 20 +/- and get a new bolt and spring this will take care of the problem?

Thanks for all the replies.
 
First, you can use a lighter bolt spring, either the wire type or you can feather the original to lighten it. That will reduce or eliminate the gouging.

Second, you have to fit the "ball" (top) of the cylinder stop to fit into the cylinder notches, and polish off sharp corners. If the cylinder stop does not fit right into the notch, the cylinder can turn when the hammer is cocked as you say is the case with yours. Also make sure that peened over metal has not blocked the cylinder notches; if it has, use a small file to remove the excess.

Once the stop is fitted properly into the cylinder, check the timing and you might have to adjust it as mentioned above to drop the bolt at the beginning of the leade rather than at the end. If the spring is at the right tension, the stop will burnish the leade but not gouge it.

Jim
 
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